First post and first (of my final ever) Sander... And a DC question..

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Jul 6, 2015
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Hey, not yet a Festool owner, first time poster, and soon to be an owner of something green... I wanted some opinions. After careful deliberation, and viewing several of the "New to Festool" forum posts and "First Sander" posts, I've decided you all sound like a pretty friendly and very helpful crowd and decided that for my needs, it would be best to give a new post so I don't get lost in everyone's very specific advice for other people.

First a small bit of background for the work I do- My family owns multiple rental properties consisting of anywhere from 2-6 units a piece, most dating back as far as the 50's. Most of the units haven't undergone serious renovations, and of the ones we've tested for lead, minimal traces were found- of which I guess we are pretty lucky. That said- RRP is a very real part of what I need to consider. I do all kinds of work in the renovations and regular upkeep, from remodeling, cabinet installation and/or repair, trim, electrical, plumbing, tiling, flooring, drywall- basically... I'm a bit of a jack of all trades. I went to school for architecture, finishing my degree however I've found that I have a much greater love for construction and cabinet work with a potential for furniture work as well, and plan to be moving in that direction much sooner, as well as staying involved with the family business and increasing the family business through newer property acquisition be it to flip or buy-rehab-lease.

That said, I do anything on this older stuff from repairing oak thresholds or window sills with decades of layers of paint, restoring them to stain grade if the wood hasn't succumbed to rot or termites, or whatever. I have some old tables I've found that I plan to work on and sell to get a feel for the furniture work, but require stripping through varnish or paint or whatever the case is. I've amassed a decent collection of the upper end of Makita's line of tools, including their track saw (it was a hard fought fight over not getting the TS55 but my current budget won out- and for now, it works amazing, so I can only imagine how great the TS55 is), their 10" compound mitersaw, the LS1016L and their 1/2 sheet sander BO4900V. From reviews, the sander came in as a close second to tie of the Festool RS 2 which I will eventually purchase. Pretty happy with the current setup of tools I have but as I just turned 30, my parents wanted to get me something I've been wanting for awhile and thus, here I am- ready to make the leap into the addictive world of green.

From a personal assessment, I feel a RO 90 DX would be the ideal sander to start with, as I already have a pretty good sander with the Makita 1/2 sheet (most of the specs from my comparison match the RS2 nearly exactly, not sure of the stroke size) and I believe the RO 90 with the Delta pad would be the best bang for my buck, especially if I were to bundle it with one of the DC's which I can then use to make my 3 previously mentioned dust mongering Makita's a lot better in that department. I actually learned about sanding in general from growing up using my dad's Milwaukee 1/2 sheet sander (a size and model they no longer make, unfortunately) and as such have never really used any quarter sheet or round sheet sanders as the 1/2 sheet always felt the best. I do realize the RO 90 has a learning curve, however I also read it has a less steep learning curve than it's more aggressive bigger brothers. This selection is one of the things I am looking for some input on.

Another question relates to the size of a dust collector. I'm strongly considering the CT36 as I do plan to use it for track saw, miter saw and sanding purposes, and it will be used both on site in apartments, and in a garage shop, while also getting carted around a lot. It would probably be transported in the back of my crew cab Silverado where the seats fold up, as opposed to the bed to minimize rolling around and protect the investment a lot more. I'm not limited on size, however I want to try and also keep things manageable while minimizing constant bag replacement. It will only be used for dust collection as I have a couple different sized Ridgid vacs that work amazing for debris of all sizes and don't have a concern in that area. I do believe that I read someplace on this forum that I could purchase the lower storage compartments to increase or decrease the size, and actually put in a call to Festool yesterday where I found I could order them, however I need to order each part individually as the bottom halves are not sold as a unit, however when priced out, it came out to a couple hundred dollars which is far cheaper than buying the entire unit over again. All this in consideration, what DC size would you guys recommend if you were in a similar situation?

My last question comes from the standpoint of looking to future green investments. I know I will probably get another 2 sanders in the future, and I'm contemplating between the RO 125 and 150, both for the larger size of the aggressive mode, as well as their finish/buffing capabilities, while also purchasing a smaller than 1/2 sheet finish sander. I see a lot of high recommendations of the ETS 150 on here and I am wondering if it would behoove me to match that next sander (the RO 125 or the RO 150) with it's equivalent of a finish sander. I do know the ETS 150 comes with 2 stroke sizes, the 3 and 5mm while the RO 150 has a 5mm stroke. I figure the ETS 150/3 would compliment the finish sanding of the RO 150 nicely, however with already having a 1/2 sheet finish sander, I don't know if the 5" 125 pad sizes would make more sense as a go-between of the RO 90 and the 1/2 sheet.

If you could just get a happy medium of 3 sanders, which would you include? I don't currently do a lot of stain-grade work for cabinet's but it might be in my future. Most of our apartment work is paint-grade except for some of the units which managed to still be stained in good condition from some very long term tenants, the revival of one which is coming up very soon as a tenant of 25 years will be moving out and we will be sanding and putting new poly on the kitchen cabinets (again, being very lucky the tenants took excellent care of the apartment compared to others, we have had in the past).

Sorry this turned out so long  [embarassed]- I do a ton of research and usually wind up triple and quadruple-checking myself as a result and just wanted to be as detailed as I could to help you guys with your opinions. Thanks for your time! (also- I know I mentioned I do drywall, however I don't use sanders for what little drywall work I do. I typically sand by hand or we have an employee who is very good at drywall work which we use, so that is also a moot point, however I would look into the planex or something else related at a much later date).
 
Welcome to FOG!!!

The ro90 is a great first sander.  I own a ro150 and its a great sander as well. I would look at the midi if your going to be taking in and out of your truck and houses.  I had a ct22 and it was a pain to haul around,  now I take my midi with me everywhere.  It doesnt hold as much as a bigger vac, but it holds a lot of dust.  I use mine professionally for work every day and its surprising how much saw dust it will hold.
 
For me in order of importance/preference

RO150
ETS 150/3
RO90

I see no point in the ro125 for me it is worst of both worlds (90 and 150). Not the best.

I have the CT26 vac manageable would not want bigger.
 
I was looking more at the 26, the 36 or 48 as the latches for the top components are all interchangeable with the dust compartments on the bottom. As far as my memory serves, I have never had a need to go inside tenant's units to do serious sanding work while the apartment is occupied, it's only upon a vacancy when I have plenty of space to roam.

I will definitely put more thought into the CT 26, however- I do tend to be one of those people with eyes that are bigger than their stomachs... that is- I'll think I need more than I really do, and the 36 just might be overkill. To my knowledge, the 26, 36 and 48 all have the exact same performance specs except for their storage capacities, correct?

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Edit: Hah, I should have said 4 sanders- my math was fuzzy and I didn't realize I was thinking 2 RO's and the 1/2 Sheet, plus a fourth, ETS of one matching the RO for sharing sand paper sizes! Oops. So far I'm agreeing with you two, the ETS and RO 150's, the RO 90 and a 1/2 Sheet, be it the RS 2 or my Makita.
 
                                                                              Welcome to the Fog!
      I pretty much agree with Tyler on both the Rotex 90 and the Midi.  I carry the midi around to different sites a lot and trust me, that's all you need. (anything bigger becomes a real pain to deal with).  I'm restoring a 45' 1968 Chris Craft made of mahogany and teak, the Rotex 90 did ALL of the interior sanding and was doing pretty well on the decks until a Rotex 150 showed up on Craigslist. [big grin].  The difference is impressive if you need to cover a large area!     
 
I have the CT36 and would advise against getting one for sanding when it will often be carried. Get a smaller one. Sanding dust is very fine and will make the ct36 very heavy to the point where it seems it could be damaged by carrying it by the handle. However, just rolling around is not a problem.
 
jamanjeval said:
I have the CT36 and would advise against getting one for sanding when it will often be carried. Get a smaller one. Sanding dust is very fine and will make the ct36 very heavy to the point where it seems it could be damaged by carrying it by the handle. However, just rolling around is not a problem.
cblanton42 said:
                                                                              Welcome to the Fog!
      I pretty much agree with Tyler on both the Rotex 90 and the Midi.  I carry the midi around to different sites a lot and trust me, that's all you need. (anything bigger becomes a real pain to deal with).  I'm restoring a 45' 1968 Chris Craft made of mahogany and teak, the Rotex 90 did ALL of the interior sanding and was doing pretty well on the decks until a Rotex 150 showed up on Craigslist. [big grin].  The difference is impressive if you need to cover a large area!     

How does the Midi fare when also being used in conjunction with a track saw and miter saw? The dust is bigger, I know that- but I'm also thinking about costs for dust bags- or do you not use dust bags? I know I'll avoid the dust bags on occasion with my Ridgid vacs and prolong filter life by just using an air blower attachment with my compressor but I can't see that working well for the HEPA filters. I guess I should look into bag costs before I go forward with any of the CT's vs the Midi.

The other thing I might wind up doing is something similar to what I've started working on (almost completed) for my miter saw. I've built a mobile cart roughly 36"x46"x36" tall to store all my air tools (finish and framing nailers), compressor, various work tools and my Bosch radio (or Makita Drill set depending on what the static is like if I'm working next to it). A second smaller mobile cart for the festool vac and maybe sanders or such would potentially work quite nicely. I no longer am able to alter the design and it's about an inch or two too short to fit a ct 26 in place of my air compressor, but it's a perfect size for the Midi if I were to not need my air comp. The main reason for building the cart is because I have a tendency, as young as I am, for back cramps, and I am tired of carrying around my 70 something pound miter saw and air compressor all over when I could just wheel them around on a cart.

Unless the CT 36 can get upwards of the weight of my twin tank hitachi air compressor, I'm no where worried about weight, but again- it's still something to think about. I'm just worried that the Midi could fill up on a major reno if I'm doing a ton of miter saw/tracksaw/sanding action.
 
Discap said:
For me in order of importance/preference

RO150
ETS 150/3
RO90

I see no point in the ro125 for me it is worst of both worlds (90 and 150). Not the best.

I have the CT26 vac manageable would not want bigger.

This [wink]

I have a CT36, but I have a CT Mini too ... I wouldn't wan t to carry a laden CT36 up stairs [eek]

[welcome] [welcome] [welcome]
 
A fully loaded CT36 with dry sawdust is about 6 lbs heavier than a fully loaded CT26.  We're talking 41 lbs vs 47 lbs roughly, not really big deal at that weight IMO, if you're willing to deal with 40+ lbs in the first place.  That's the weight of something like a small 2.6 gallon Rol-Air JC10 compressor, so your twin tank unit has to be even heavier.

A fully loaded CT Midi is down around 28 lbs, and a CT Mini around 26 lbs.  Now that's a pretty hefty savings over even a CT26 when loaded and would be noticeable for lugging around.

Note that I'm using 1.8 lbs/gallon for a dry sawdust weight, which is one of the heavier amounts I've seen online for dry sawdust.  Lowest amount I've seen is 1.4 lbs/gallon, which would make the numbers above a little lower.

Keep in mind your capacity relative to the bags.  The cost of those bags can add up quick if you are going through a lot of sawdust in a small CT.  When you look at the incremental cost to get a bigger and bigger CT, you see how bag cost savings can stack up quickly.  There is no long life re-usable bag for the Mini/Midi available in the USA, so you're stuck with one and done bags.  There is reusable option for the 26 and above.
 
idratherplaytennis said:
jamanjeval said:
I have the CT36 and would advise against getting one for sanding when it will often be carried. Get a smaller one. Sanding dust is very fine and will make the ct36 very heavy to the point where it seems it could be damaged by carrying it by the handle. However, just rolling around is not a problem.
cblanton42 said:
                                                                              Welcome to the Fog!
      I pretty much agree with Tyler on both the Rotex 90 and the Midi.  I carry the midi around to different sites a lot and trust me, that's all you need. (anything bigger becomes a real pain to deal with).  I'm restoring a 45' 1968 Chris Craft made of mahogany and teak, the Rotex 90 did ALL of the interior sanding and was doing pretty well on the decks until a Rotex 150 showed up on Craigslist. [big grin].  The difference is impressive if you need to cover a large area!     

How does the Midi fare when also being used in conjunction with a track saw and miter saw? The dust is bigger, I know that- but I'm also thinking about costs for dust bags- or do you not use dust bags? I know I'll avoid the dust bags on occasion with my Ridgid vacs and prolong filter life by just using an air blower attachment with my compressor but I can't see that working well for the HEPA filters. I guess I should look into bag costs before I go forward with any of the CT's vs the Midi.

The other thing I might wind up doing is something similar to what I've started working on (almost completed) for my miter saw. I've built a mobile cart roughly 36"x46"x36" tall to store all my air tools (finish and framing nailers), compressor, various work tools and my Bosch radio (or Makita Drill set depending on what the static is like if I'm working next to it). A second smaller mobile cart for the festool vac and maybe sanders or such would potentially work quite nicely. I no longer am able to alter the design and it's about an inch or two too short to fit a ct 26 in place of my air compressor, but it's a perfect size for the Midi if I were to not need my air comp. The main reason for building the cart is because I have a tendency, as young as I am, for back cramps, and I am tired of carrying around my 70 something pound miter saw and air compressor all over when I could just wheel them around on a cart.

Unless the CT 36 can get upwards of the weight of my twin tank hitachi air compressor, I'm no where worried about weight, but again- it's still something to think about. I'm just worried that the Midi could fill up on a major reno if I'm doing a ton of miter saw/tracksaw/sanding action.

Mmmmmm  [huh] Okay. It's sounding like I might really consider two CT's, the 36 for shop use and part of the bundle (to save more)/ birthday gift and then purchase the CT Midi separate on my own.. or bite the bullet and wait for my next sander purchase and bundle it with the Midi or vice versa. I can see how fast this would empty wallets. I might go with the Midi first, then upgrade to a bigger CT later, also. Maybe I can fix up this furniture I'm considering making look all rustic, you know- that hipster "in" thing that people like and make a pretty penny to help pay for some of the upgrades  [big grin].

Noting what you mentioned, HDClown- I'm also finding size and weight is all somewhat relative. I can lift my 50-60# dog, no problem, they're plenty light but when I compare that to a 50# box of nails, the box of nails is way worse. I know that's comparing a live weight to a dead weight but I can lift a large 50# box of feathers or a small 50# box of nails and I guarantee, they won't both feel like 50#.

This could just be a live and learn thing for me to personally experience as well. I got a black truck because I was so tired of white, despite the warnings of it will show EVERYTHING etc etc etc. Well guess what. Damned if they were right. Never getting anything but a white truck again- even IF the black looks damned nice when it's all clean and shiny. Too much of a drought and too dirty in Los Angeles to keep the clean and shiny up for the foreseeable future. And now that I thought about this reference, I think I really may go the Midi route first and upgrade with a new sander and a CT36 later  [blink]. Betting you are ALL correct  [embarassed].
 
Don't forget you get a 30day return trial period when you buy, and Festool dealers are great. They typically have a demo area for you to try out tools, which would be helpful for you to get a feel for the sanders beforehand. You'll quickly find out how great the DC's are in working in a dust free environment. You won't regret it. Also, to help you move quickly into catching the green fever, check out the systainer section here to see how others use them for storing, really anything, and moving in-and-out of job sites conveniently. You'll be designing your own systainer boxes in no time.
 
My first Festool purchase was an ETS150/5 and a CT Mini. A lot of Festools I've purchased since have been somewhat impulsive ... but that first little combo got flogged hard and it really worked well for me. Now I wouldn't be without small and large DC's. That said I'd still suggest the CT26 to someone that wanted ONLY one DC.

 
    The midi can handle any sawdust the track saw or kapex produces so don't be concerned about that, the bigger versions are really just larger containers for your dust/debris (also known as weight).  I bought a 5 pack of bags for my midi over 2 years ago and still have one in the box, they hold a lot of dust, tools producing large chips seem to be more of a problem for guys with high bag cost concerns. It's hard to know how much dust you produce so I suggest buying a Midi, use it for 20ish days and then check your bag.  If it seems like you will be filling it up a lot and the cost would become a problem, return it and buy a larger one before the 30 day trial period.
      One thing we haven't covered is going up/down stairs a lot, do you?  If so, even with a cart, steps are tough to deal with so lighter tools are your friend for more than 1 flight of stairs on a consistent basis.  The FOG is full of home made carts and ideas that would benefit you greatly on this topic.  Do a search and get ready to spend a few hours in amazement at what some members have done!  Good luck!   
 
I have a CT26 and would not enjoy carrying around anything larger.
When the bag gets full it get heavy.
 
I use three Fein IIIs with the steel version of the Oneida dust deputy in my shop and just bought the Oneida Festool dust deputy for mobile work.  While the Oneida makes the midi more bulky, it's easy to move both when disconnected and I never lose suction and have yet to have to empty the Onieda.
 
Biggest CT=Biggest Bags=Biggest bang for the buck.  A few extra pounds won't matter taking it up and down a set of stairs every now and again.  If you find it does, then the CT choice is not the problem but rather the fact that you need to hit the gym.  Save on gym membership by bench pressing your CT every morning.  Muscles are good.  Muscles are useful.  Not only for the construction trades but  for nearly everything else in life.  Accept the undeniable truth of the universe that "life is hard and then you die..."  The oracle has spoken.
 
cblanton42 said:
    The midi can handle any sawdust the track saw or kapex produces so don't be concerned about that, the bigger versions are really just larger containers for your dust/debris (also known as weight).  I bought a 5 pack of bags for my midi over 2 years ago and still have one in the box, they hold a lot of dust, tools producing large chips seem to be more of a problem for guys with high bag cost concerns. It's hard to know how much dust you produce so I suggest buying a Midi, use it for 20ish days and then check your bag.  If it seems like you will be filling it up a lot and the cost would become a problem, return it and buy a larger one before the 30 day trial period.
      One thing we haven't covered is going up/down stairs a lot, do you?  If so, even with a cart, steps are tough to deal with so lighter tools are your friend for more than 1 flight of stairs on a consistent basis.  The FOG is full of home made carts and ideas that would benefit you greatly on this topic.  Do a search and get ready to spend a few hours in amazement at what some members have done!  Good luck! 

I have occasional stairs that I go up and down, but if I'm working, I go up once with the tools and leave it there. And it's only two story residential, nothing worse. I did do a comparison of bag costs to the cost I would pay for filters on my Ridgid vacs and gallon for gallon, size for size, they come out at a comparable cost, if not a couple dollars more for the Festool's, however I believe that would be offset by the ease of install, and the superior performance they would be offering- so bag cost is no longer a concern after looking into that. I just don't see myself getting a second dust collector for awhile unless the money falls in place right away. But thanks for the info on what the Midi can handle. I'll definitely consider it.

mclaeys said:
Don't forget you get a 30day return trial period when you buy, and Festool dealers are great. They typically have a demo area for you to try out tools, which would be helpful for you to get a feel for the sanders beforehand. You'll quickly find out how great the DC's are in working in a dust free environment. You won't regret it. Also, to help you move quickly into catching the green fever, check out the systainer section here to see how others use them for storing, really anything, and moving in-and-out of job sites conveniently. You'll be designing your own systainer boxes in no time.

The unfortunate part is I live in West Los Angeles, heart of well... Big Box retail heaven where actual good tool stores are few and far between and the places I can actually demo- well- I don't know of any. I have a couple places that might sell Festool products, but as for actual demo's I know none. I even tried to check out the list on this forum of authorized places and only one of them- Lee's Tools in Compton rang a bell- and I drive out there now and then for a few things, but it's still a hike and I've never seen any actual Festool products there. They seem more of a "We can get it" place while they're a HUGE retailer for DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita and Bosch.

If anyone in the West Los Angeles area knows of a place, I'd be more than willing to take a day off and drive out and find somewhere to check the stuff out- that would be awesome.. or not so awesome from my wallet point of view, hah.

teocaf said:
Biggest CT=Biggest Bags=Biggest bang for the buck.  A few extra pounds won't matter taking it up and down a set of stairs every now and again.  If you find it does, then the CT choice is not the problem but rather the fact that you need to hit the gym.  Save on gym membership by bench pressing your CT every morning.  Muscles are good.  Muscles are useful.  Not only for the construction trades but  for nearly everything else in life.  Accept the undeniable truth of the universe that "life is hard and then you die..."  The oracle has spoken.

[eek] No, never meant to say I had issues carrying that stuff- just trying to make it easier  [smile]. My own issues spawn from doing the wrong stuff/lifting more than I should, when I was younger and still developing muscles. I would lift stuff that should have been 2 person carry at the least and as a result have a tendency for back cramps, and pinched nerves. I've started to learn to take it much easier after having my workaholic father who has had 2 back surgeries as a result of over straining himself, however I also agree- a gym would also help me protect myself much more. I think a lot of my issues also came about from carrying irregularly shaped objects but all said, college, particularly my thesis year was a rough time and in addition to my muscle, I put on excess baggage that helps no one. I can handle up to 80 pounds with ease, over that, I know I need to be careful and infrequent for the time being.
 
yeah, absolutely, take care of your back by ALL means.  my quick post was a bit of tongue in cheek while i was browsing the fog at lunchtime earlier--i was just seeing a lot of responses about the extra few pounds differential.  i would still go with the largest ct if you can devise suitable methods of work like having a helper, a ramp, all sorts of ways to leverage lifting stuff, etc.

isn't eagle tools out in LA?  have not been there myself but i've heard lots of great things from others on woodworking forums about their service in regards to high end tools.
 
teocaf said:
Biggest CT=Biggest Bags=Biggest bang for the buck.  A few extra pounds won't matter taking it up and down a set of stairs every now and again.  If you find it does, then the CT choice is not the problem but rather the fact that you need to hit the gym.  Save on gym membership by bench pressing your CT every morning.  Muscles are good.  Muscles are useful.  Not only for the construction trades but  for nearly everything else in life.  Accept the undeniable truth of the universe that "life is hard and then you die..."  The oracle has spoken.

Absolutely agree - I've incorporated shifting Systainers and performing arm curls with my CT36 into my primal fitness program.

I've decided that getting two more Sys5's and gradually filling them with otherwise useless Woodpeckers OTT's is the perfect way to increase my weightlifting ability and make economic use of the tool investment.

BTW, the plug-it lead has proven to be the best skipping rope I've ever owned.
 
teocaf said:
yeah, absolutely, take care of your back by ALL means.  my quick post was a bit of tongue in cheek while i was browsing the fog at lunchtime earlier--i was just seeing a lot of responses about the extra few pounds differential.  i would still go with the largest ct if you can devise suitable methods of work like having a helper, a ramp, all sorts of ways to leverage lifting stuff, etc.

isn't eagle tools out in LA?  have not been there myself but i've heard lots of great things from others on woodworking forums about their service in regards to high end tools.

Thanks, hahaha, that makes me feel a little better. I can check it out- the problem with saying Los Angeles or West Los Angeles or anything like that- is basically that LA is so freaking big, and even if it's not, even if it's someplace 15 miles away- well... the traffic can make that trip an all day affair  [scared]. If you've heard good stuff, I'll research that place a little more. It's 17 miles away but google estimates that at like 40 minutes which means its more like an hour or two depending on traffic.. hehe. Far as I'm concerned- if it's a great place, it will be worth the time. I can't stress how much I dislike getting relegated to big orange and blue box stores. And even then- the best ones for service are not the best for stock and the best for stock aren't always the best quality of stock and it's a vicious loop.

I think I checked out Eagle Tool's website once and wasn't fully impressed but not always a bad website does a bad store make; I'll check reviews and what people have to say now- I think I was in a rush the other day when I was perusing the site. For what it is- Lee's Tools in Compton was impressive by tool store standards I am used to, and a place that actually might carry a stock of Festools might be that much better. At least one great thing came of Lee's- I got great service for repairs on my Makita stuff when the need arose and I found some awesome nitrile gloves- 100 pack of Black Lightning for $14 in all kinds of sizes that are WAY better than anything you can get at the big boxes for the same price.
 
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