First Router 1400 or 2200?

[schneems]

I'm potentially interested in getting my first router. I've got a small garage shop. Hand tools with a track saw (with mft/3 table), no table saw. I've also got a 14" bandsaw and drill press. I'm thinking that a router would be an extremely useful addition to the shop and not take up a ton of space. I was wondering what all of your thoughts are between the 1400 and the 2200?

I like the smaller size of the 1400, but if I'll eventually grow out of it and **need** the 2200 then I don't want to drop $600 just to turn around and drop another $900 on another tool that also takes up space. So I guess I'm interested in how you all view these two tools? Is the 2200 a super-set of the 1400 and it can do everything plus more? Or is it more of an unwieldy beast that excels at heavy-duty tasks but not at lighter duty setups? If you've got both, do you find one sits on the shelf and collects dust?

FWIW my track-saw is the TS75 and while sometimes I've wished it was a little lighter, I've also used the max depth cut on it and been grateful that it was there (since I have no table-saw).

What thought process would you all use in trying to determine which router to buy?

 

[4FunFinders]

Personal experience, so opinions will certainly vary.  No way did I want to man handle the 2200 on a regular basis.  1400 for most jobs was enough for me.  Priced out a Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP, Router Lift and decent table.  Vary comparable to the 2200 by itself.  Dust collection based on the table and not the router itself made the decision for me.  In the end.. big routers are best served in a table unless there is a need to be mobile.  Just my 2 cents.

 

[nvalinski]

Depends what you are looking to do with it, but I agree with 4FunFinders that I've never really come across a scenario where I feel like I need to be running a 3 hp router handheld. If you are working on joinery for large timbers, flattening a slab, a lot of trenching work, or other operations, then it might be a good choice. But if you are doing some typical edging details, trenching, and template work, a 1400 is fine.

I'd also still consider the 1010 as well. That little guy is my most used router outside of a table. I'll use it for putting 1/4 grooves on table legs for panels, edging details, and light template work. Still glad I have a 1400 and a Porter Cable 690 router for my medium duty items, but I can't recommend the 1010 enough (just wish it had a sane dust port, a ratcheting bit holder, and quick release bases like the 1400).

 

[DynaGlide]

I think you'll find a router in a table is far more useful than a router by itself. I was in a garage and started with a Dewalt 618 and didn't have enough justification at the time to keep it (and the giant case it comes in) so I sold it. I needed to do some roundovers and went and got a Dewalt dwp611 and really enjoyed it for what I used it for. It's a super nice and comfortable router. Once I got into Festool I went and got a 1400 after my TS55 and CT26. I found that once I was hooked on not having dust spewed everywhere I wasn't using my Dewalt anymore so I sold it to a friend. I regret doing that sometimes as it was such a nice little router and may pick up a cordless version sometime as I think they've started adding decent dust collection to most of the newer offerings. I know Ridgid came out with a cordless router with a nice dust collection accessory.

Now onto the 2200 vs 1400. The 2200 really isn't that unwieldy if it's used with accessories like the edge guides or mounted on a guide rail. The dust collection is better on the 2200 than any other router out there. But to get all the nice handheld accessories is another $400 for the systainer kit. The 1010 is probably the answer to your needs for the foreseeable future. Just try to find 8mm shank bits even if you have to order them online. That way if you ever get a bigger Festool router you can use the same router bits on either one.

If your needs ever shift to needing precise template work with guide bushings from what I've read the Festool offerings can be lacking.

TLDR: Go buy a Dewalt dwp611 and the dust shroud for it for now. It's a cheap investment and will let you get started routing and figuring out what your needs are before you go spending the big $$$.

 

[JeffSD]

I had a similar question recently when I was looking for a new router and table for my small garage shop.

I went with the OF 1400. Powerful, reasonably-sized and it's "approved" for use in the CMS-VL table that I have attached to my MFT/3. Dust collection in that combination is amazingly good.

I understand that a number of guys use the OF 2200 in the CMS tables without any issues, but I'm a bit of a scaredy-cat when it comes to the possibility of voiding the Festool warranty.  [big grin] 

 

[ear3]

I will cosign all that has been said about looking into a router table and then combining it with a more dynamic handheld option like the 1010, as well as factoring into cost estimates the various accessories of the 2200.  Keep in mind that you can get a really nice router table setup plus a Triton that has above the table adjustment (meaning no need for an expensive router lift) and still come in under the price of the 2200.

The 1400 was my first Festool router, but once I got the 2200 and 1010 it is now my least used option, reserved for when I need to run 1/2" bits or make deep cuts on a surface that is too narrow for the 2200.  I love the 2200 -- best dust collection I've ever seen on a router, and despite its large size, it is actually quite nimble to handle.  And the precision depth adjustments that allows you to hit the exact desired depth with minimal fuss.  I find the extra power comes in handy mostly when running deep cuts, which require fewer passes on the 2200 than with the 1400.  I've never really done a head to head between the two with large diameter bits, since I would normally run these on the router table.

Keep in mind too that the only router in the Festool line with failsafe centering of template guide bushings is the 1010 (once you add the Leigh template adapter), so if you plan to do a lot of that type of work you should factor that in.

 

[Dove_Tail]

schneems - All great advise above.

I have routers ranging from 3/4 HP to 3-1/4 HP.

While there are applications for using a 3-1/4 HP router hand held, it's not common.  The OF 2200 is a beast to use handheld.  Generally we use 3-1/4 HP routers in a router table.  With a good router table and lift, that size router just needs to be a good motor.  Traditionally, everyone used to buy the Porter Cable 7518 for this application.  Lately, I see a lot of guys buy the Milwaukee motor.  Although I don't own the 2200, I wouldn't invest in that router for a table mount.  (2200 owners - Love to hear how you use yours)

I own the 1400 and use it extensively with the holey rail for 32 mm line boring, dadoes, etc.  I would love to add a 1010 - I think it could be a more go-to router.  The 1400 is still fairly bulky.  I bought mine because it has a 1/2" collet and the 1010 doesn't.

Based on my experience and your intended purpose, I recommend you start with the OF 1010.  You'll save $130 and have a VERY capable router.  Don't worry, you'll add more routers later  [big grin].  Keep in mind that the 1010 will accommodate 8 mm and 1/4" shank bits only.  If you think you will need to run 1/2" shank bits, then you need the OF 1400.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[rmhinden]

I have the OF 1010 with a set of 8mm bits I acquired in different places.  I also have a router table, w/ lift, and the Porter Cable 7518, I use that with 1/2" bits.

I use the router table where it make sense and the 1010 for things that don't on a router table.  This include template routing, LR32, edge routing, circle cutting, and a Leigh dovetail jig.  I haven't had any issues with the 1010 not being powerful enough.  The dust collection on the 1010 works well.

This combination works well for me. 

 

[xedos]

Definitely NOT the 2200 for a first router !

First off, you never really grow out of a small router.  It many not be up to the task you have at hand after you progress, but it will still do the job it was designed for.  If you eventually need a 3hp handheld, then the 2200 is probably the best out there.  Few people need this capability.  For table mounting, other makes offer better value.

For a first router, I'd also suggest the 1010;  or even another make.  The 1010 will cover a lot of bases and is easier to handle and learn on.  It's also better for the the LR32 system if you ever want to do 32mm system holes.

Another thing you should come to grips with early on is that one can never have too many routers.  If you end up using one , you'll inevitably get another and another usually.  So, don't approach this as "I'll spend a bit more now and get one that will do everything"  I doubt that has worked for anyone when it comes to routers.  I'll bet no one commenting here has only one.

For a first router , you may also want to consider a palm router.  Many like the dewalt 611 with the fixed and plunge bases.  That with a 2hp+ midsize router like the 1400 when your work needs it might be an even better combination. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

Echoing many, get the 1100 first.

1/4” shank bits are fine for most work.
When you need stouter bits find 8mm shank bits.

Then, if you find you need more power jump up to the 2000 and 1/2” shanks.

At some point you’ll probably want a router table. Get a variable speed non-plunging 1/2” router for that.

 

[4FunFinders]

Another thing you should come to grips with early on is that one can never have too many routers.  If you end up using one , you'll inevitably get another and another usually.  So, don't approach this as "I'll spend a bit more now and get one that will do everything"  I doubt that has worked for anyone when it comes to routers.  I'll bet no one commenting here has only one.

Truer words have not been spoken.  [big grin] [big grin] 

[As a side note... I own 6 (only 1 Festool) and I'm just a homeowner who likes to make things for the house LOL]

 

[schneems]

1010 is an interesting option. How is the dust collection on it versus the 1400? My garage is a multi-purpose space and I try to be as dust conscious as possible.

 

[ear3]

Dust collection on both is excellent, and I don't think you're losing anything in that area by going with the 1010 rather than the 1400.

In case you don't alraady know about it, a fantastic accessory that goes with both the 1010 and 1400, though is ideally suited to the former because of its smaller size, is the edging plate, which turns it into a horizontal router.


Just be aware that to make the plate functional you also need the angle arm, and for DC purposes, the chip guard.

1010 is an interesting option. How is the dust collection on it versus the 1400? My garage is a multi-purpose space and I try to be as dust conscious as possible.

 

[Cheese]

Keep in mind too that the only router in the Festool line with failsafe centering of template guide bushings is the 1010 (once you add the Leigh template adapter), so if you plan to do a lot of that type of work you should factor that in.

Edward brings up a very important point. The 1400 & 2200 use the same style quick change template guides which CANNOT be centered. You get what you get.

The 1010 uses a screw fastened template guide and it CAN be centered.

My own use is 1010 = 75% of the time, 1400 = 15% of the time, 2200 = 10% of the time.

 

[semenza]

The 1400 is the best general / all purpose router in the line up.  Plenty of power and still easy to handle. Unless you are doing something specific on a regular basis that requires a really big router, my bet is that you will only need the 2200 about 1% of the time. And the other 99% of the time you will wish you had a lighter better handling router.

Though the 2200 handles well for a router of it's size, but it  is  a beast in size and weight.

In either case get the D36 hose. The DC is much improved on the routers with the larger hose.

Seth

 

[RKA]

My vote is the 1400.  You will eventually find a need for a router table and it will likely end up with a large router.  You’ll find yourself running 1/2” shank bits on that when possible.  For handheld use, the 1400 is the smallest router than can accept 1/2” bits which is appealing so youre not buying extra bits (some are In the $100 range).  And frankly, it’s easy finding the bits I want in 1/2”.  About 80% of my bits are 1/2”.  10% are 1/4”, usually for edge profiling with a little trim router.  I have a few specialty 8mm bits as well.  The 1400 will run all of them. 

Centering the templates can be an issue in some instances, so if you need guide bushings for really precise work, I wouldn’t suggest this router.  Using it in a dovetail night is particularly problematic.  But I love everything else about it and it is a little more refined that the 1010 without enough added weight to bother me.  It’s a personal preference thing, so try them out in a store. 

 

[Jim_in_PA]

My first Festool router was the OF1400 right after it was released...I was blessed with the ability to borrow a pre-production unit from Mr Marino for a few days and there was no question he was going to get my money for one as soon as they were available for sale. I since also bought the OF1010. These two routers compliment my DW618. (which is mostly used fixed base) I've not felt the need for the big heavy OF2200 as I have a PC7518 in my table.

 

[xedos]

You will eventually find a need for a router table and it will likely end up with a large router.  You’ll find yourself running 1/2” shank bits on that when possible.  For handheld use, the 1400 is the smallest router than can accept 1/2” bits

While this is certainly true, The 1400 isn't really all that great for router tables other than Festool's which is gonna run $1500+  Better options exist for dedicated router tables - or - even when you'll be removing the motor for bigger hand held operations.

For the $600 you'd spend on a 1400 you can get a 2.25 hp router from yellow, green, blue, or grey and a nice router lift. Plus, they all come with both a fixed and a plunge base adding more versatility as well as easily accepting PC guide bushings that can be centered.  Something the 1400 is poorly suited for.  You might even have a bit of dosh left for some plywood to built a router table.

For me the 1400 is pretty good at a lot of things , but not great at any. I tend not to like jack of all trade type tools, so I can't recommend it. 

 

[DynaGlide]

Or do as I did OP and start with the 1400. .then tell yourself you need an MFK 700. . .then an OF 2200. . .then it'd be really nice to have an OF 1010 for doing shelf pin holes because you can't possibly slog the (perfectly capable) OF 1400 along the LR 32 rail.

It's a sickness. Best to turn around now.

 

[schneems]

>  failsafe centering of template guide bushings

What exactly is this? I'm totally new to routers.