First time using hardwood panels for rail/stile construction

[Rick Herrick]

I have made a number of simple doors and have always used a 1/4" plywood panel.  I am working on a dresser for my daughter and I am double/triple checking everything so I get this right.  I am roughly following a set of plans I got from a YouTube'r. I don't think the plans really accounted for side to side movement of this panel.  I have a rough drawing here showing the top/bottom view of the side panel.  The rail/stile width is 2-1/4" and the total panel width will be 15".  The plan is calling for a 7/16" deep groove to house the panel.  This panel is 1/2" thick and will have a 1/4" tongue routed (7/16" deep) to go into the groove in the rail/stiles. 

Assuming I wanted a snug fit (which I do NOT), the width of this panel would 11-3/8 which is

15" total - 2x stile width of 2-1/4" + 2x the 7/16" tongue

(15) - (4-1/2) + (7/8) = 11-3/8

I am using white oak for all and I am making these panels now, in the cold time of the year.  Is there a rule of thumb of how much narrower this panel needs to be ?

 

[Packard]

That is pretty much how I would make it.  I always make my stub tenons 1/2" deep.  But other than that, pretty much the same.  I almost always use plywood or MDF.  If I use MDF, then I go with 1/4" panels.  For plywood, I  use 1/2" thick as it takes screws well. 

I don't like to screw into MDF regardless of the thickness.  So I go with 1/4" there.

 

[zachjowi]

I like to use rubber space balls and undersize the panel so it can expand/contract and still have pressure on it from the rubber ball to keep from rattling.

 

[zachjowi]

I like to use rubber space balls and undersize the panel about .25" or slightly more so it can expand/contract and still have pressure on it from the rubber ball to keep from rattling.

 

[Rick Herrick]

I like to use rubber space balls and undersize the panel about .25" or slightly more so it can expand/contract and still have pressure on it from the rubber ball to keep from rattling.

Thanks Zach.  I had read about those a while back and had forgotten.  From what I read, the 1/4" is a pretty good number to take off the width.  Also saw comments to get enough of the spaceballs you need and put them in sawdust for  awhile to wick any residual oil that may be on them so it doesn't bleed through your finished product.

 

[FestitaMakool]

This method of. makes for a very nice appearance.
Actually this type of panelling covered walls in houses built before 1970 here. Most painted them in a light (Scandinavian style) color.

I have none to measure right now, but I think the “rule of thirds” is very close.
Ie: If you measure the visible width of the facia of the “top” boards, then divide that width in three.
Make the board that fills and makes the background into two thirds of the “top” boards.
I'd try laying it out using the boards before splitting them, altering them to get a visual appearance that you like.

 

[Michael Kellough]

That depends on the cut of the wood and the humidity when built and average humidity of the place where the doors will be installed.

Plain sawn white oak shrinks/expands much more than when it’s quarter sawn, almost twice as much.

Don’t know the link offhand but tables are available online that give the coefficients of expansion for the different cuts of wood by species.

 

[Rick Herrick]

That depends on the cut of the wood and the humidity when built and average humidity of the place where the doors will be installed.

I know, that's why I am asking this forum.  I had found the link below to get started.  If my panel is 12" wide and the average humidity change is 3-4 (US), using this formula for FS white oak, I am looking at just over 1/8" (.1314) to plan for.  But I don't know how to factor 'when it was built', other than using the humidity change noted above.

Wood expansion

 

[Packard]

I don't use the spaceballs, but I have used screen window rubber spline.  They come in various diameters and the largest will work in 1/4" slots.  I cut off about 1/2" pieces and pressed them in.  At least I was not chasing rolling balls all afternoon. 

But now I just size the slot to fit with a slight interference fit and skip the rubber entirely.

 

[Getmaverick]

Rail length will be 11 3/8
Panel width will be 10 15/16 if using space balls.
I always use space balls.

 

[chrisrosenb]

I am currently building an 8' long vanity with the same style doors. I used hard maple. The panels are 1/4" shorter & narrower. I used soft space balls. Put the space balls near the panel corners. Do not put any space balls in between the corners. Doing so can cause the rails to bow out.