Flattening a wood plank glue up

donwon

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Jan 19, 2013
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Starting to do glue ups of solid wood panels. I have an RO150 and wondering what paper and grit people recommend for this? 

I would rather put some $$ into the paper than take extra time so everything is an option right now [big grin]
 
I usually start with Granat 80 for something like this, assuming there is minimal misalignment between the panels.  If the boards are really rough, I might even move down to 60, but carefully, since this paper on the Rotex eats through wood like nobody's business.  If there is a fair amount of glue residue, it might be good to work the joint first with a scraper or block plane to get off the excess, an d so save the paper and protect against dishing from pressing the sander too hard.

If there are significant ridges, then  be careful about going all out with the Rotex, as this will create depressions in the panel.
 
24" Oliver wide belt sander... [big grin]

Kidding I just make sure my pieces are flat before I glue than finish with 180 grit and 220 before stainingr
 
Hand plane is the proper tool for that. Not only it is faster and less messy, but you end up with the surface that is actually flat, not smooth and undulating.
 
If its just some glue and minor ridges then I use a scraper but if its more then a plane is best followed by a quick sand using RO150 starting around 120/150 grit and progressing to 180/220 depending on what the finish will be.
 
I rely on my ancient drum sander to flatten glued up panels. Mine is limited to 16" with the option of turning the panel 180 degrees and getting about 32" sanded.

I have taken larger panels to my Woodcraft store. One of the staff has access to a really big drum sander. For a few dollars, I get a perfectly flat panel that I can finish sand.
 
I  made this jig with 80/20 profiles.

I have 2 glue ups of maple for doors that I have to flatten.  I only have a 12" plainer and the panels are 19" wide.

OF1400 with 30mm template guide.  1" Freud bit.  I have a 1-3/4" Freud bit being delivered tomorrow.  It will make the process a little quicker.

[attachimg=1]

Eric
 

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erock said:
I  made this jig with 80/20 profiles.

I have 2 glue ups of maple for doors that I have to flatten.  I only have a 12" plainer and the panels are 19" wide.

OF1400 with 30mm template guide.  1" Freud bit.  I have a 1-3/4" Freud bit being delivered tomorrow.  It will make the process a little quicker.

[attachimg=1]
Eric

Eric, for a moment, I thought those were MFS profiles in the picture!  Nice idea for using the 80/20 material.

Mike A.

 
Eric try the last couple of passes with the grain (so lengthwise) to minimize tear out.
 
mike_aa said:
erock said:
I  made this jig with 80/20 profiles.

I have 2 glue ups of maple for doors that I have to flatten.  I only have a 12" plainer and the panels are 19" wide.

OF1400 with 30mm template guide.  1" Freud bit.  I have a 1-3/4" Freud bit being delivered tomorrow.  It will make the process a little quicker.

[attachimg=1]
Eric

Eric, for a moment, I thought those were MFS profiles in the picture!  Nice idea for using the 80/20 material.

Mike A.

[member=30413]mike_aa[/member]
Yeah Mike, the 80/20 is nice.  I have 4 different length that I use just like the MFS profiles.

rvieceli said:
Eric try the last couple of passes with the grain (so lengthwise) to minimize tear out.

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]
Yes Sir.  I do the last two passes with the grain.  It's quicker going against the grain for the first few passes.  And with using the OF1400 and ability to micro adjust the depth by 1/10mm ( 1/256") the last couple passes leaves very little to finish with a sander.
 
Thanks everyone for your feedback on how to do this. Looks like I need to rethink my method versus get a heavier grit for the RO150 [eek]
 
erock said:
I  made this jig with 80/20 profiles.

I have 2 glue ups of maple for doors that I have to flatten.  I only have a 12" plainer and the panels are 19" wide.

OF1400 with 30mm template guide.  1" Freud bit.  I have a 1-3/4" Freud bit being delivered tomorrow.  It will make the process a little quicker.

[attachimg=1]

Eric

Hi Eric

One question I do have about this setup is what connectors did you use to join the pieces together. From the pics it is hard to tell. More pics would be helpful!  Thanks!
 
Birdhunter said:
How do you hold the workpiece to the bench whilst it's being flattened?
As you know traditionally it's done with one dog in the bench and another in the end vise, but the above system would work with double face tape.
 
donwon said:
erock said:
I  made this jig with 80/20 profiles.

I have 2 glue ups of maple for doors that I have to flatten.  I only have a 12" plainer and the panels are 19" wide.

OF1400 with 30mm template guide.  1" Freud bit.  I have a 1-3/4" Freud bit being delivered tomorrow.  It will make the process a little quicker.

[attachimg=1]

Eric

Hi Eric

One question I do have about this setup is what connectors did you use to join the pieces together. From the pics it is hard to tell. More pics would be helpful!  Thanks!

[member=18132]donwon[/member]

I used 80/20    10 series.  3" wide.  2 are 36" long.  2 are 12" long. Here are the connectors I used.....

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member]
double sided woodworking tape.

Eric
 

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I use a 4" makita belt sander for flattening things like panels, works a treat.

Doug
 
erock said:
...
I used 80/20    10 series.  3" wide.  2 are 36" long.  2 are 12" long. Here are the connectors I used.....
...

Eric

I am a bit today (coffee in hand).
Where does that extrusion come from?
That looks pretty slick.
 
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