FS55 REQ bevel cut problems

swhc1066

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Joined
Jul 5, 2017
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3
I have recently purchased the TS55.  Have used it for two credenza projects.  Both cabinets were assembled like 2 big boxes - 45 degree miters.  The cuts for these miters were not perfect - were slightly bowed if you looked down the length of the miter.  This worked fine as i was able to clamp them pretty tightly and could fill any small gaps with bondo since these two pieces were finished with tinted lacquer. 

I knew I needed to spend a little time fine tuning the saw to be able to use the saw with fine veneered plywoods.  I figured that the bow in the previous miters was a result of some slightly bowed material.  But wanted to do some tests with the saw to really get the saw dialed and be able to cut perfect 45 degree miters.  I tested it on some 3/4" MDF that I knew was perfectly flat.  I cut a series of 45 degree miters and sighted down the length of the miter and set the edge against a straight edge and the bow was gone.  Problem 1 solved.

However a new problem was discovered.  Tilting the saw over to 45 degrees and relying on the stop the cut was way off from 45.  I dont recall the previous time i used the saw and built the 2 previous credenzas that the miter was off.  Now its off a couple degrees.  I have seen multiple threads on how to get the blade back to 90.  But have discovered that the cut on the bevel is not flat.  It's convex.  Theoretically if your angle of the blade isnt 45 it should at some point lay nice and flat against the 2 faces.  Might not be at perfect 90 degrees but it will have a nice tight joint.  But now you cant get a tight joint.  You can either get the outside edge nice and tight and closed or the inside edge to be closed and tight, but not both.

Has anyone seen this problem before?  And if so any solutions?

Thanks

Sean
 
I saw similar issues when the material wasn't supported to be flat or the rail wasn't perfectly flat on the material (stemming from not being supported at the same height on the ends that hung over). Also when I forgot to push the base of the saw to the rail (as the center of graity of the machine shifts to the side when set to 45° and weight of the motor pulls the base away from the rail).
 
Thanks Gregor.  I had seen the issue of not having a flat material youre cutting in some test cuts.  I have always tried to push my hand on the base of the saw when cutting but might need to adjust the position of my hand or the amount of pressure.
 
Another thing that comes to my mind is setting the bevel angle: I have better results when placing the machine on the side (the one with the hole in the cover to access the screw for the blade change) and then setting the angle with the base in the air.

My reasoning is that when tilting the machine with the base being horizontal the weight of the case, motor and stuff pulls it outward which might lead to a slight twisting of the geometry. Resting it on the heavy part and moving the lightweight one (the base) to the intended angle seems to avoid that.
 
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