Getting power to a shed

Tim Brennan

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Joined
Jul 28, 2013
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145
I have a small shed 80 ft from the house which id like to have a light and a power socket permenantly. I need 240V and probably the biggest load will be an electric heater e.g. 1-2kW

Is there a way of doing this myself safely without spending £500 on an electrician
 
Safely doing this means you dig a trench yourself and save some money that way and let a qualified electrician do the connection. Otherwise you will potentially have no insurance if your house or shed burns down......
 
Slartibartfass said:
Safely doing this means you dig a trench yourself and save some money that way and let a qualified electrician do the connection. Otherwise you will potentially have no insurance if your house or shed burns down......

Good idea.

Is steel conduit necessary if I use armed cable?

I can't seem to find sub panels in the UK, is it called something else? My friend said I need a consumer unit so I took a look at these> http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Consumer_Units_Index/Crabtree_Starbreaker/index.html

My friend also said that the shed should be wired into the fuse box, not added to an existing ring. The house's fuse box is on an external wall but not sure if going under ground all the way is possible since at the house there is concrete for about 20 feet. Steel conduit along the outside wall might help get past half the concrete but I'd like to avoid that if possible.

I'd also like to run a CAT5e cable to the shed. I'll keep it well away from power lines to avoid crosstalk. Does this need to be any particular kind of cable if I want to bury it in the ground?
 
When I did my detached garage I used 10mm cable in  scaffold pole , 18* deep , with warning tape across the top of it . My spark was impressed. I ran it through the first floor to the back of the house then down the wall and into the ground,  I wired it all myself then the electrician just tested it for me . I used a 6 way unit in the garage . 1 for 240v sockets , 1 for a 110v permanent transformer. 1 for heater. 1 for external socket .1 for lights and a spare way. .
Dave
 
jmbfestool said:
Something like this would do inside a little shed no?!?

Generally, the search you're looking for for something simple like this is "Garage Consumer Unit".

This would be fine, and include a 40A RCD, and a 32A and 6A MCB (sockets and lights).

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-garage-kit-enclosure-5-module-ip55-40a-rcd-dual-6a-32a-mcb/68849

There are regulations associated with running power to an outbuilding, so it's probably best to get an electrician in to look at what would be required, and get him to advise what you can do, how to do it, what you can do to reduce the overall cost (dig the trench, run the cable, drill holes in walls etc.) and then what he'll charge to connect and test things for you.

Run more than one CAT5/5E/6, and enclose it in conduit so that you can replace/repair in the future if need be - something like blue MDPE water pipe would be ideal. Keep it at least 300mm away from the power cables. You can buy external quality CAT5/5E/6 but it's not absolutely necessary given you'll be running it in conduit and burying it.
 
I can't speak to UK electrical codes, but I *can* make some universal observations. Some of them may not be valid depending on the size and intended use of your shed, but I'll tell you what I did for my shop (not a shed).

1. Put in a larger feed wire than you think you need or want. The price of copper (or aluminum) NOW is dirt cheap compared to wishing you had gone bigger later. I have never heard anyone say "I wish I didn't have so much power available to me!"

2. There is generally a 'sweet spot' that makes the most sense, i.e. best 'bang for the buck'. Here in the US it's either 60 or 100 Amps, so in the UK I'd guess it's around half of that since your voltage is double ours. (Same power level but half the current.)

3. If your feeder is in conduit or is otherwise shielded, drop in TWO runs of cat 6 underground cable and at least one RG6 ( or the metric equivalent [wink]) for television. If it's not metallically shielded, put some dirt over the power lines (do a little backfill first) to provide physical isolation between the power lines and the signal/low-voltage lines. I'm assuming that you can bury both in the same trench, but you'd need to verify that. (My electrical is 30-32" below the surface; low voltage stuff is ~6" above that).

4. Consider dropping in a PVC conduit (assuming that's legal and available in the UK) or a second run of whatever is legal. Pull in a nylon line to use for pulling wires later. Like your feeder line, make it bigger than you think you will need.

5. Assuming you do as much of the work as you can (trenching, laying conduit, backfilling, etc.) the cost from your electrician is not going to change much based on the size of the feeder or the size of the conduit. If you ever need to re-do it, however, the cost will be STAGGERING!

For reference, my shop is about 150 feet from my house. It has it's own 200 Amp electrical panel, as well as some direct buried video and control cables. It *also* has TWO 2" PVC conduits connecting it to the house, in which I have multiple Cat 6 and RG6 and low voltage control cables running. I feed TV signals TO the shop from the house, and security video FROM the shop to the house. I control my overhead door and HVAC over WiFi. I have heat sensing fire alarms (not smoke alarms, since I weld out there) in the shop that are connected to one in the house, so should a fire start out there I know about it right away. I am immediately alerted to motion or other activity in the shop via my alarm system over low voltage wiring. I can observe the security cameras over the internet, and - as a backup - through the buried cable which is not easy to cut or interrupt like WiFi could be.

None of this was insanely expensive, and your run is much shorter than mine. Sounds like your electrical contractor rates are MUCH higher, though?

BTW, I didn't get this all right the first time. I put in the 200 amp service initially, since I always intended to use lots of power tools in there. But I added the direct buried cables later, and the conduit even later than that. Both of those times required me to pretty much hand-dig the trench because I had other wires in the ground that prevented the use of earth-moving equipment. So learn from my mistakes and do it all now.

[big grin]
 
Thanks for all the great advice.

I will get an electrician round for a quote and ask how I should best prepare for the connection.

How deep into the concrete is normally necessary? I have a sds drill for this so shouldn't be too much work if only 3 inches deep.

Is there anyway to prepare for the situation of getting a bigger shed in a slightly different position. It should be roughly the same place but may be 5 foot further away. Is it best to leave 5 ft slack underground?

This chap has minimised the amount of trench digging by fixing conduit to a fence But I think if fences only last only a few years is this a good idea
 
This morning I found another hurdle to overcome. There is a drain and a manhole very close to the intended path for my buried power cable. See photo - the red line is my underground cable...

[attachimg=1]

Is there a chance that I could damage the water pipes if I drill a trench near them?
 

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There's always a chance, but lifting the manhole cover will soon solve that. I'd guess that the drain only runs the 12-15" into the manhole, so if you do damage that it's not a problem to replace. The key is where the outlet from the manhole runs. 5 seconds with the cover off & you'll know that. Hopefully it runs away from the side you want to run the cable.
 
Can armoured cable be fixed to a brick wall without steel conduit? If so that would avoid digging a trench in concrete. I can't fit steel conduit because there is a down pipe in the way and only a small space behind it which might just fit a cable but not much else.
 
As said uk regs state that armoured cable can be either burried (direct) or in pvc conduit. Our 4 inch soil pipe is fine. It can be clipped to a wall or sent overhead with supports. But clipped to timber fence posts is a no no.
 
I know nothing of UK regulations, but here in the Colonies, we can use LiquidTite flexible conduit both above ground and buried.  It certainly makes some things easier, plus it's a bunch of easier to fish wiring through, compared to hard conduit in most cases. 

 
I would run at lest 2 conduits 3/4" each. Burry the conduits in sand and gravel, with an orange or yellow warning tape cover. The extra one could provide for more circuits or low a low voltage conduit for network or alarm systems.

Have a cutoff panel at each end.

I would us UG wire specifically designed for in ground use and run with out splices in the ground. Metal armored cable will rust in the ground.
 
There are a few factors to be considered here!

All electrical installations should comply with BS7671:2008

What type of fuse-board do you already have in the house?... Does it have a spare way for another MCB? Do you have RCD protection on the existing fuse-board?

A 2kw load over 80' will produce a volt drop of around 6V with a 1.5mm2 SWA cable. Maximum cable load would be approx 16A

A 2.5mm2 SWA will have less volt drop and a max load of approx 21A

Without seeing the whole length of where you plan to run the cable it's hard to give a complete answer, but basically I'd run a 2.5mm2 SWA clipped to the house wall so you don't have to dig past the drains, and then bury it where necessary. The regs don't give an exact depth to bury the cable, but state it must be a 'suitable depth'.... rule of thumb is 18" down.

Your not allowed to clip to a fence, as it's not deemed a permanent structure, funnily enough, your allowed to leave the armoured cable laying on the surface un-buried...

 
Davej said:
When I did my detached garage I used 10mm cable in  scaffold pole , 18* deep , with warning tape across the top of it . My spark was impressed. I ran it through the first floor to the back of the house then down the wall and into the ground,  I wired it all myself then the electrician just tested it for me . I used a 6 way unit in the garage . 1 for 240v sockets , 1 for a 110v permanent transformer. 1 for heater. 1 for external socket .1 for lights and a spare way. .
Dave

Yup I believe you do call them consumer units over here.
 
You should use a registered electrician for a number of reasons.

The existing demand in the house needs to be assessed as you might have no scope for adding additional loads. You need to asses the new load and then calculate the size of cable and voltage drop applicable. Earthing and bonding need to be considered. You also need to consider the existing main earthing type as this could have an effect on what is required - TNS/TNCS(PME)/TT etc. I'm not in England (in Scotland and our Building Standards are different) so can't say for sure but you may have a requirement to notify the local authority under building regs(LABC), plus you'll need an electrical installation certificate to prove the installation is safe. If you do the work yourself and notify LABC it will possibly cost several hundred pounds. If you use a registered spark their scheme membership will allow them to notify the job for you for a couple of pounds. Avoid sparks that are 'domestic installers'. look for someone that is an Approved Contractor or has a JIB gold card etc. Someone mentioned BS7671:2008 which are the Wiring Regulations. The current Standard is BS7671:2011 (and they're possibly going to be updated again next year).

SWA (armoured cable) can be clipped direct to the wall. Cables should not be fixed to fences and trenches should be at least 500 mm deep. There's always a way around things like protecting the cable with paving stones or possibly clipping to a 'kick board' if all else fails. If a trench needs digging, dig it yourself and save paying someone else to do it? If you use some form of conduit and run other cables in it with the supply cable you may have to consider derating factors on the supply cable.

A small consumer unit should be fitted in the shed for the shed circuits and they'll possibly need RCD/RCBO protection. The supply cable will not require RCD/RCBO protection but will need overload and short circuit protection from the house consumer unit. Proper electricians don't shop at screwed-fix but should use quality materials from a wholesaler.

Get several quotes, but a few hundred pounds to do the job right and safely is a small price to pay to avoid being killed!
 
I found a recommended electrician, but unfortunately he doesn't do any certificates. He's semi retired and used to be registered but its no longer worth him paying his membership because of the amount of work he does now. Is the certificate important?
 
E30Mark said:
There are a few factors to be considered here!

All electrical installations should comply with BS7671:2008

What type of fuse-board do you already have in the house?... Does it have a spare way for another MCB? Do you have RCD protection on the existing fuse-board?

A 2kw load over 80' will produce a volt drop of around 6V with a 1.5mm2 SWA cable. Maximum cable load would be approx 16A

A 2.5mm2 SWA will have less volt drop and a max load of approx 21A

Without seeing the whole length of where you plan to run the cable it's hard to give a complete answer, but basically I'd run a 2.5mm2 SWA clipped to the house wall so you don't have to dig past the drains, and then bury it where necessary. The regs don't give an exact depth to bury the cable, but state it must be a 'suitable depth'.... rule of thumb is 18" down.

Your not allowed to clip to a fence, as it's not deemed a permanent structure, funnily enough, your allowed to leave the armoured cable laying on the surface un-buried...
f846d2dd405d3d1441776c0191d1f859.jpg


Yes there seems to be a spare switch on the consumer unit.
 
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