Getting started on some flooring

One burned out dust collector later 1000 board ft of Hickory is now about 500 square ft of 4" and 6" T&G flooring


IMAG1309 by TheEvillOnes, on Flickr

Lots of stacks like this, was worried about putting too much on my MFT 3 not sure how much weight it could hold

IMAG1306 by TheEvillOnes, on Flickr

Some videos

Running through the shaper


Jointing one side
 
Pretty neat videos but there was a couple of things i would do different.  I have never used a power feed on a surface planer but it seems to be working for you.  I think you have the speed too high.  I would never feed wood that fast whilst straightening boards.
You also said you straightened one edge before you had dressed 1 flat face ?  I was always taught to face first, then edge square.  Then rip to width & thickness plane to final dimension.  By doing an edge first you have no control that once you get your good face that they will be square !  I realise that machining a tongue & groove on the boards that a square edge is less important but i think it is still good practise.

Look forward to seeing the flooring installed.
 
Thanks

The powerfeed is nice for large lots makes things much more consistent, Just set it an inch or so past the cutter head on the out feed table and let it do the work. Speed wise that jointer has a helical cutter head that really lets you move some material over it, don't think I could go back to a straight knife machine.  For most things I will do one flat face then the edge for this the t&g cutters joint off about 3/16 so as long as there is a straight edge for ripping the width you are good to go. 
 
Ok help me decide cleats vs staples trying to decide which I should go with. Leaning towards cleats but really not sure which would be best.
 
woodguy7 said:
I always use cleats with the proper flooring nailer.
Click to expand...

I've only used cleats myself.  I'm sure there is a good application/reason to use staples, I'm just not familiar enough to know.  Also, I use a manual floor nailer.  They aren't the most popular choice since they are a lot more work.  I feel the results are worth the extra effort.   
 
Brice, what type do you use ?  I have 2.  One you whack once with the rubber mallet & the other you can hit a few times, works on a ratchet type mechanism.  This one is my favourite as when getting close to a wall you can get closer without risking damage.
 
woodguy7 said:
Brice, what type do you use ?  I have 2.  One you whack once with the rubber mallet & the other you can hit a few times, works on a ratchet type mechanism.  This one is my favourite as when getting close to a wall you can get closer without risking damage.
Click to expand...

I have the ratchet type mechanism.  I like because the multiple hits really drives the flooring together tight. 
 
Eco-Options said:
Vermeister is the cats meow of WB finishes for floors! It is super protective while keeping the wood very natural looking.
It's also stupid easy to use.
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the 2k Vermeister IDRO 2K or the Zero  VOC product?
Thanks.
Tim
 
The house is going to be for my mother in law

I am thinking about using VerMeister Idro 2k Satin. Not 100% decided yet still.  I am still building the kitchen cabinets, the floor finish is not super high on my list right now.
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Eco-Options said:
Vermeister is the cats meow of WB finishes for floors! It is super protective while keeping the wood very natural looking.
It's also stupid easy to use.
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the 2k Vermeister IDRO 2K or the Zero  VOC product?
Thanks.
Tim
Click to expand...

Both are easy to use. Let me know if you do order Vermeister, I can give you some tips.
For all out DURABLE-
Aqua Tenax(400s/f per gallon)
Followed by one or 2 coats of Idro 2K. (6-700 s/f per gallon)

They both have a chemical smell to them. After coating wait an hr. then open up all the windows and turn on heat. It will dry in 2 hrs. 3-4 to buff it again and coat.

If you want something with almost no smell and 3/4 the strength(still dozens of times harder than an OMU finish) of the above finishes, then you can go with Zero.
 
Eco-Options said:
Both are easy to use. Let me know if you do order Vermeister, I can give you some tips.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help Chris.
I need to refinish my (oak) stairs sometime and I am looking for some solutions.
I am also looking for a water borne 2K poly that I can use on some kitchen cabinets but that's a whole other discussion.
BTW, great web site and flickr pictures. Thanks again.
Tim
 
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