Give me an excuse to come up with version 2 for this MFT sysport

Dave Rudy said:
Well, I thought I had seen the cheap whites in 100# full extension, but maybe I dreamt it, since I can't find them again today.

I have, though, used KV slides before and found them less expensive but well-made.  Interesting that the first review says they won't come open by themselves.  I think I will try these:

I saw that those were shipping from Woodworker's Hardware. So I went to their website to check prices and for my order (six 8" slides and twelve 14" economical slides) it came out ~$60 cheaper after shipping than Amazon.

 
It's finally totally done!  Here's a picture of the backside.
 

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Amateur Hour said:
I saw that those were shipping from Woodworker's Hardware. So I went to their website to check prices and for my order (six 8" slides and twelve 14" economical slides) it came out ~$60 cheaper after shipping than Amazon.

Perfect.  Thanks for the heads up.  I couldn't find it again but since I hadn't ordered the sustainer slides yet, I will jump on those.

Sysport looks great! 

  Did you end up with 10 sustainer slides?

Hope to be posting my pics some day soon!
 
Yes, 10 Systainer slides in all.  If I buy any more Festools they're going to have to be stored somewhere else.
 
Gotta spend time building things besides tools for tools.  I need to play on the lathe more for a while.
 
Awesome job and thanks for the photos. Not having a mftyet, I'm curious as to why you haven't removed the legs and have free space under the tabletop for storage? Can one remove the legs and supports and have the mft top still work if you have it raised and supported on the corners?
When funds permit I would love to build a replica of your MFT sys port for my own shop.
Great job.
 
The metal corners of the MFT come down below where the legs fold into, so the design would be a little awkward to use that space, besides those legs aren't trivially easy to remove (at least the one time I tried they didn't unscrew completely).  I also like the idea that if I needed to I can just lift the MFT off the cabinet and take it somewhere (probably won't do that in the foreseeable future).

If you (or anyone else) has any questions or needs a picture from a certain angle let me know and I'll be happy to supply it.
 
Thanks, I'll intend to return here at some stage and review it all over again when I finally do start it.
Once again what a great job you've done, makes me feel "guilty as" for not pulling finger and setting up my workspaces better [embarassed]
 
Dave Rudy said:
Well, I thought I had seen the cheap whites in 100# full extension, but maybe I dreamt it, since I can't find them again today.

I have, though, used KV slides before and found them less expensive but well-made.  Interesting that the first review says they won't come open by themselves.

For systainer storage, I am using Hafele 423.75.435 (full extension self closing, bottom mounted, white epoxy) with a ply panel.
They should be ~ $8 per set.
 
Those look good Joseph, If I end up building any more Systainer storage I'll keep them in mind.

The one thing I don't like about the slides I used for V2 is that they "lock in" a little at the end so when you want to pull them out it takes more initial force to get it started.  Do these white slides have that initial resistance?  Not too sure about the self closing part though the open lid would prevent it from closing while I was looking through the stuff in the Systainer.
 
I rather like that resistance to opening, especially when I roll the sysport around in my shop.  It keeps loaded drawers from spontaneous opening events. 

 
You're right it does help with that.  I don't have handles on my shelves and open them by sticking my fingers on top and pulling on the Systainer lid.  When the TS55 Systainer is empty that resistance causes the Systainer to tip before it overcomes the resistance, though the shelf above it stops it from tipping more and does open the drawer.  I know, first world problems and I'm being picky...
 
I don't have handles either, and I rarely have the tipping issue, although I know what you're talking about.  I'm using Accuride 3832 14" glides which have just enough resistance to opening. 

 
I was asked a very good question about my plans in a personal message, so I'll post the answer here as well.  The question was how I handle Domino joints that are at 90 degrees to each other - how the dividers attach to the spine as well as the top and bottom.

It does take some planning.  I made every Domino hole for the entire piece before gluing any of them and I'd dry fit sections and then take everything apart to get at the next spot.  Then I glued as follows:

(see my note after 6 before starting)

1. The vertical divider in the end to the end horizontal support. (this is the only vertical glue for now)
2. The assembly from #1 into the front/back faces
3. The stuff from #2 into the big side
4. The big side into the spine
5. The dividers into the spine
6. The big side onto the other end of the spine

I did the above with Domino's inserted but dry in the bottom edges on top of the bottom piece, then once 1-6 was done I slipped the assembly into the holes in the bottom for alignment.  Then did the same for the top.

After the horizontal joints were dry I'd remove the top (a rubber mallet helps a lot), add glue to the joints to the top and put it back in place, let dry.  Then flip the whole thing over and do it with the bottom.

You work from the inside out.
 
I noticed that you use Maxcut for cutlist but hand drew the sysport.  I'm guessing you inputted the dimensions into Maxcut based on the hand drawing.  Or did you use, say sketchup, and exported a .csv file?  Is Maxcut easy to use?

Jeff
 
I'm a computer programmer so woodworking is partially about me getting away from computers for a change, plus I tend to get VERY nitpicky about making formal CAD drawings perfect, plus I find Sketchup very tedious.  I found that dealing with Sketchup was just a distraction from figuring out what the joints were and doing the math for the dimensions, so I hand draw things so I focus on what's important.

Maxcut is pretty easy (there are some minor tricks about grain direction and you should set up a library of the materials you use right away) so you are correct that I enter the dimensions and it creates the cut layout and I've played with it enough that it does what I would have done by hand.

My experience with Sketchup should be increasing soon because a month ago I got a MakerGear M2 3D printer and want to start designing my own things to print, though it's not yet clear which CAD programs I'll use - Sketchup apparently has its problems with 3D solid modeling.
 
I just finished my mft sysport based on sprior's design. 

I made a couple of modifications - it is about 12 mm shorter (my preferred working height) and I added a few additional drawers.

Regarding the sliding shelves, I added a Lee Valley cabinet pull that allows the shelf to be pulled out and it helps "define" the front edge.

Thanks very much for the plans and the discussion.

Carey

 

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