Guide rails for plywood - 106” or 118”?

[tjbnwi]

Both (I do have both)

Tom

Any tips on preparing the first cut to set the zero clearance on the splinter strip?

Short rail connected on one end, cut on foam with the rail diagonal corner to corner, set saw to 10 mm, start cut on short rail, cut 3/4 or so onto long rail, move short rail to opposite end, slide assembly onto foam, finish cut.

Tom

 

[rst]

The 106 is the only rail I don't own besides that 197" monster.  I prep my strips the same way Tom does.  My original way to cut 96" was to connect my 75 & 55.  I finally got fed up with that as I liked using my 75 for crosscuts.  I mostly use my 75 at my 62" x 106" cutting table.  All my rails hang from the holes in the rail excepting my 118 which is hung horizontally.  I kept the foam retainers from the shipping package, mounted them on the wall and store the rail with the foam clamping the rail in place and the splinter strip up.  Most of my work is in the shop prepping up to 5' x 10' plastic so my situation is different from most on this forum.

 

[MikeDVB]

Both (I do have both)

Tom

Any tips on preparing the first cut to set the zero clearance on the splinter strip?

Short rail connected on one end, cut on foam with the rail diagonal corner to corner, set saw to 10 mm, start cut on short rail, cut 3/4 or so onto long rail, move short rail to opposite end, slide assembly onto foam, finish cut.

Tom

I don't have any of the connectors - I ordered one and it'll be delivered tomorrow.  I meant to pick one up when I was at the shop last and spaced it.

That said I do still need to prep the short rails somehow.  Is it OK to plunge the saw into the middle of a new rail rather than starting on the very end?  reason I ask is that I can connect two rails, plunge in the middle of one, and run across to the other - then switch them and run off the other end.

 

[Michael Kellough]

The best way is as described above.

You don’t really need the ends trimmed right away. Just go ahead and make a cut that doesn’t put to much deflection stress on the saw blade. The foam suggested is great. Set the depth for a shallow cut (as above) and make the cut at slow to moderate speed for best results. When you get the connectors you can trim the ends of the strips but don’t let not having them stop you from using the tracksaw.

After all, the rubber strip is a fungible item. It will get overcut before long but you should have time to see/learn how compensate in order to postpone moving the strip out farther. From time to time, after making a cut, before moving the guide rail, inspect how well the splinter guard aligns with the cut edge of the work. If perfectly congruent move on looking for places where there is a divot in the strip and the top surface of the work is revealed. Mark that place as bad and so on.

Tips for when the strip is worn- 
The anodized surface takes pencil marks well.
Mark the rail where the strip is still true and avoid using the bad places when aligning the rail to your marks on the work.
If there is an unavoidable bad spot where your mark is you can put a Post It note on the underside of the rubber strip in the bad place and then make a quick cut in scrap to make that place usable.

 

[jeh]

118" is the only solution. Joining two Festool rails is a rig at best given there are multiple 3rd party jigs for doing so. You will be a lot a happier with the larger rail and it's easy setup for a long cut.

 

[MikeDVB]

The best way is as described above.

You don’t really need the ends trimmed right away. Just go ahead and make a cut that doesn’t put to much deflection stress on the saw blade. The foam suggested is great. Set the depth for a shallow cut (as above) and make the cut at slow to moderate speed for best results. When you get the connectors you can trim the ends of the strips but don’t let not having them stop you from using the tracksaw.

It didn't really occur to me that once the splinter guard was trimmed that it would become damaged/inaccurate over time.

I'm new to track saws.

 

[rst]

I cut a lot of different materials, wood, plastics, phenolics, aluminum, so my strips take a beating.  I do not use the sacrificial strip for accurate cuts. All my saws are adjusted to cut exactly 3mm from the aluminum edge of the rail and I use a Woodpeckers Paolini pocket rule to set my marks.

 

[MikeDVB]

I cut a lot of different materials, wood, plastics, phenolics, aluminum, so my strips take a beating.  I do not use the sacrificial strip for accurate cuts. All my saws are adjusted to cut exactly 3mm from the aluminum edge of the rail and I use a Woodpeckers Paolini pocket rule to set my marks.

I looked at that rule. Can you by chance explain to me how you do this accurately?

I’ll be cutting wood only but I would like to know your process for cutting accurately from 3mm out from the track itself.

Edit: Looks like I can’t get a paolini rule anyhow. None for sale.

 

[rst]

I set my rule to 3mm and stand it on edge so the stop is on the line to be cut and the rule itself is touching the rail edge.  You should clamp you rail to a scrap piece and make a partial depth cut to check the exact offset from the cut to the rule. 

 

[Papajoe]

Hello!

I picked up my TS55 the other day and I love it. That said it came with a 55” rail which isn’t long enough to cut an 8’ sheet. I do actually need to make some 88” cuts today as well.

My local woodcraft has both the 106” and the 118” in stock. I know the 106” should work but for $30 more I’m considering going for the slightly longer 118”. My only real concern is having extra rail sticking out further than necessary when making a cut.

I do have some festool clamps to attach the rails to what I’m cutting and I planned on getting a 32” rail while I was at it for shorter cuts.

Thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!

based on the requirements of squares and straight edge clamps required to connect 2 rails, i wouldn't consider this process. if your a hobbyist only, spending time alining rails may be ok, but to run production, grab a long rail and go. dont worry after a few cuts to recheck and aline the connection. COUNTER PRODUCTIVE!

 

[MikeDVB]

I am a hobbyist, at this point, but I'm big on efficiency because what time I have to do this is very limited.

Beyond dust collection - the sheer fact that I can set up cuts quickly and get them done was one of the main reasons I went for the TS 55.

When you only have an hour here, or an hour there, taking a few minutes to set up each cut - really kills your available time.

 

[rst]

Indymike, time being the case , buy the 3000mm, 118".  I joined rails for a couple years until I decided that the 5 minutes or so joining rails was not time efficent.  I own all the rails excepting the 197" and use the one most appropriate as time is a real issue when using professionally and when time is an issue. 

 

[Papajoe]

rail connectors with a normal "festool connection and straight edge can be off .040" on 8' cut.
not for me!

 

[ben_r_]

I use the Betterley too.

 

[GoingMyWay]

I just bought the Betterley.  I'm dumb because I missed the note that said the guide rail connectors are sold separately.  I need to pick up a pair of the connectors now.

 

[MikeDVB]

rail connectors with a normal "festool connection and straight edge can be off .040" on 8' cut.
not for me!

I did go ahead for the 118" track - although storing it is fun.  I leave it upside down on my assembly table for now.

I'll have to look at what you linked .

 

[MikeDVB]

That betterely looks awesome - too bad I didn't see that earlier .

As it stands I have a 32", 55", and 118" so I should be good to go - but it would be nice in an odd situation to connect even the longer tracks together to cut something really long.  For example I have some 12' boards I'd like to cut in half but no track long enough.

That said I'd really like to be able to do short cuts / cross cuts with my TS 55 - I'm thinking that's really only doable with an MFT style setup?

 

[rst]

Buy the Makta rail joiners.

 

[semenza]

That betterely looks awesome - too bad I didn't see that earlier .

As it stands I have a 32", 55", and 118" so I should be good to go - but it would be nice in an odd situation to connect even the longer tracks together to cut something really long.  For example I have some 12' boards I'd like to cut in half but no track long enough.

That said I'd really like to be able to do short cuts / cross cuts with my TS 55 - I'm thinking that's really only doable with an MFT style setup?

Add a 75" and you really have a complete range  [big grin]

I have the Betterley and it works very well. I use it for rails I take to sites. But for shop use ?  No, thanks. Assuming no storage problems one piece, ready to use is the way to go.

Seth