Has anyone purchased a TKS-80 ?

infer said:
The fence is spot on and easily adjustable. The table is flat and the blade is exactly at 90 degrees. The feet keep the saw stationary. Easy tool less riving knife changes. Miter slots and the dust collection is similar to the CMS CS saws. All for about a 3rd the price.
The 98db noise sucks though.

Not my video. Remove space after :

https: //youtu.be/uCe5MRVMwzI

I don’t consider this type of video a “review” or “test”, at all. It’s an ad for DeWalt. I like DeWalt, they have made many very fine tools, so don’t get me wrong. Festool’s Precisio saws are quite different in many areas compared to others. The sliding table with the protractor goes way beyond any of the common contractor table saws out there. Mafell Erika is the only competitor with pull saw function. There’s many details you could argue to be different or better on the Precisio saws, but there’s also likewise many unique features.

Edit: I do not see a reason to fiddle or remove the riving knife either, as the blade guard and dust shroud removes very easy (the new EBG version) and the riving knife can be pushed down to a “hidden cut position” without tools. It goes up again with same ease as soon as you’re finished doing your cuts, and back on with the blade guard.

These guys I trust more, if you’re looking into a test of saws. And they show their face in full public. Another clue is that they document their findings, they document how they perform their tests, they do repeatability to confirm their findings. And in the end, if you watch the whole video, there’s no clear conclusion. It’s up to you, and your priorities what makes the saw work for you and your kind of work.

Have a look:=share
 
threesixright said:
infer said:
I would not call the CMS and CS70 precision saws. So I doubt the TKS will be any different. But we will see. A dewalt 7492 is more precise and repeatable than CS and CMS. JMO
The DeWalt’s fence looks flimsy to me.

Curious why (or what) you think its more precise about it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Dewalt fence is unique (I think, could be wrong) in that it is attached on both ends to rack/track, both of which are moved simultaneously when the knob (pinion) is cranked. This results in the fence remaining parallel to the blade. Not sure if the rear of the fence is locked down when front is but the rack and pinion system should help resist racking even if the rear does not lock.

There are some pictures in this review that illustrate.
 
Michael Kellough said:
threesixright said:
The DeWalt’s fence looks flimsy to me.
The Dewalt fence is unique (I think, could be wrong) in that it is attached on both ends to rack/track, both of which are moved simultaneously when the knob (pinion) is cranked.
Dewalt fence is the best among portable saws. The patent might have expired or it has been licenced off. The same fence appears now on the latest Milwaukee and Metabo cordless table saws.
 
Nope I am in the correct forum with all my 22 systainer tool boxes as the CMS with an incra setup and a CS70. The issue is I get more work done in shorter time and with better results with a cheaper tool. JMO
 
infer said:
Nope I am in the correct forum with all my 22 systainer tool boxes as the CMS with an incra setup and a CS70. The issue is I get more work done in shorter time and with better results with a cheaper tool. JMO

[member=68842]infer[/member]
I just wonder; do you have the CS 70 PRECISIO pull saw, or CMS with CMS-TS 75 module?
As CS 70 Precisio is NOT a CMS unit. It’s a stand alone portable table saw.

I can agree with you, a geared fence ala DeWalt, and now later both Metabo and Hitachi/Hikoki has the same is easy to work with. The beauty of Festool’s system is that they in fact (if they bother or want) can add such fence as an aftermarket accessory. Which would be nice.
 
I am lucky enough to own both saws. The CMS and the CS70. I am keeping the CMS for my 1400 router but I will let the CS70 go. I like the pull action a lot but need to finance another saw.
 
I just saw that the Erika 70 is no longer available  in 120 volt. In the Mafell user forum the opinion is that a 230 volt motor is required/better for braking functions and that Mafell chose not to have a different 120 volt saw for the US and other markets (UK jobsite?).
 
jimbo51 said:
I just saw that the Erika 70 is no longer available  in 120 volt. In the Mafell user forum the opinion is that a 230 volt motor is required/better for braking functions and that Mafell chose not to have a different 120 volt saw for the US and other markets (UK jobsite?).

Since they sell the Erika 85 as is (it's just the German PN) they probably had sales information from TW to show them that making the US specific 120V Erika 70 wasn't really worth it too them.  The 2 saws cost about the same, the only real reason for the 70 was if you absolutely didn't have 230V as an option to you. They did updates to the 85 recently, maybe they didn't want to bother making a 120V version of the update 70.

Erika's are portable, but just in the sense you can move them if you have to, not that you would want move them every day.  Which looks to be the same as the CS70, you can move it around, but you aren't likely too.  So for that job site market, I would guess there just isn't enough market demand for making 120V versions for the US and jobsite UK.
 
I have purchased one and had it shipped to me in California. If people have questions for me, I can probably respond.

No one can seem to give me a straight answer on if the sawstop cartridge sold here works on it or not. Mine out of germany has four small capactiors instead of one large one, one of the two pins on the side is shaped like a minus symbol instead of both being like a plus symbol that guid the comm port on, and the flat mounting area is slightly larger in diamater where it pins onto the saw than on the NA sawstop. Aside from these three things, they appear identical, and it appears it will fit on mine. The picture above, and on the UK festool site show a single large capacitor, so I am debating risking it and just seeing if the standard sawstop will work with my saw or not. I doubt, but don't know if it could cause any feedback that would damage the saw perminatly. Maybe accidentally triggering, or just not working until I swap it back?
 
240V off the main. 120v into each side (because the saw is designed to be plugged in with either side to hot or neutral, 120v to each side works the same). If you read the tag on the machine it is rated for 230-240v at 50-60hz.
I wanted to have multiple options on how to plug it in so I built one sort of pigtail box that had a euro (cee 7) outlet in it wired to a 30/50 amp plug using a short length of 8/3 cord, and made a second box that could take that 240 at 30 amps and break it down into two 120v sources coming from different sources. The amperage on the table saw is low enough that you don't have to worry about blowing a standard 20amp breaker.
 
Hey thanks for writing about your experience. Could you share which country you imported from? I noticed the UK would require you to pay VAT. 
 
Dnaupd1 said:
Hey thanks for writing about your experience. Could you share which country you imported from? I noticed the UK would require you to pay VAT.

Items delivered to addresses in the U.K. or E.U., etc., are charged VAT. If sent to the U.S. there's no VAT/GST, etc.
 
Have many folks even in Europe got these saws yet.  I haven't seen much on them, people digging into them, etc.  Nice to see a stream of them getting into the US.
 
TinyShop said:
Dnaupd1 said:
Hey thanks for writing about your experience. Could you share which country you imported from? I noticed the UK would require you to pay VAT.

Items delivered to addresses in the U.K. or E.U., etc., are charged VAT. If sent to the U.S. there's no VAT/GST, etc.

I can confirm this. Mine came from Deutschland and I did not pay VAT. I did end up getting charged a customs fee via FedEx on import, but if you live outside the country/european union you should not have to pay VAT. If you find someone that you want to buy from who is trying to charge it might be worth explaining the fact that because you are out of the region, and purchasing it from out of the region those taxes don't apply to you—they might be able to wave them, but just don't have a website set up for displaying what it would cost in your situation.
 
That is correct. Even neighbouring countries like where I live, that are outside EU qualifies an ex vat bill. What happens to most countries is that you pay your country’s tax in regards to billing from the seller you bought from. Ie, no work for the seller, and usually it’s the shipping company that does the vat billing to ie me. When I’m ordering from UK, Denmark or Germany, VAT is usually automatically withdrawn at check out. Countries not having vat or tax would then pay the net price.
 
Hi,

I'm from Portugal and I'm considering buying my first table saw, and as I already have some Festool tools (and I value my fingers a lot!), I'm wading through as much information as possible about the TKS80, as it's the only one in Europe with a sawstop (do you confirm?).
However, after several reviews, it seems that there are serious flaws in the alignment of the guide for parallel cuts, as well as in the miter gauge for perpendicular cuts.
It seems that they are not well aligned, and the cuts don't come out perfect...
Who already has and uses the TKS80, confirm these problems?
I was very inclined to buy it, but with these flaws (which if confirmed, are unforgivable!), I'll have to look at the competition and have double attention when making the cuts.
It's a shame!
Can anyone confirm that these problems still persist?
 
antoniomcs said:
Hi,

I'm from Portugal and I'm considering buying my first table saw, and as I already have some Festool tools (and I value my fingers a lot!), I'm wading through as much information as possible about the TKS80, as it's the only one in Europe with a sawstop (do you confirm?).
However, after several reviews, it seems that there are serious flaws in the alignment of the guide for parallel cuts, as well as in the miter gauge for perpendicular cuts.
It seems that they are not well aligned, and the cuts don't come out perfect...
Who already has and uses the TKS80, confirm these problems?
I was very inclined to buy it, but with these flaws (which if confirmed, are unforgivable!), I'll have to look at the competition and have double attention when making the cuts.
It's a shame!
Can anyone confirm that these problems still persist?

TKS is the only EU compliant sawstop equipped model produced. 

I have one.  Love it.  The TKS 80 EBS-set version.

The fence is perfect, out of the box.  It's also adjustable, so if it goes out of adjustment it can be put back just the way you like it.  I don't see it happening without abuse, but you can do it if ever it's needed.

Same for the miter sled/fence.  Fine as delivered, but fully adjustable if ever necessary.

I thought I was fussy about things, but a friend here also gave up on his cast iron topped cabinet saw in favour of a TKS-80.  He works to ridiculous levels of precision, often on miniatures.  He's equally satisfied with the TKS-80 performance.

If you like the saw specifications, don't hesitate.  It's NOT a cabinet saw, but it's an excellent saw for what it is.  Much better than the jobsite kind of designation it wears in the catalogue.
 
Thank you.
But that being the case, why are there negative reviews regarding the accuracy of the cuts?
Have some people been unlucky and received faulty units?
Is there a difference for the EBS-set version?
If the alignment for parallel and cross cuts can be fully adjusted, why are there negative reviews regarding these aspects?
Could it be that units with this problem were sold in the beginning, and nowadays it doesn't happen anymore?

I don't understand.
When there are positive and negative reviews regarding the same subject, it keeps making me doubt the precision of the cuts, and not knowing what to do.
 
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