Help: I Need a More Aggressive Sander

wmarazita

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I have an older ETS 150/3 (3mm stroke) that I have used since 2011 as my only sander. It works great for final sanding grits, but it isn't the best for fast and aggressive removal of planer marks and snipe, or leveling out glued up panels. I would like to like to get an additional sander that is more aggressive to use along with the ETS 150/3.

I was considering either the ETS 150/5 (5mm stroke) or the RO 150.

I'm wondering how much more aggressive the 150/5 would be compared to my old 150/3? Is it a lot better for removing planer marks and leveling out glued up panels? Or would I wish that I had spent twice the money and bought a RO 150?

Thanks for any help!
 
For the tasks you have in mind, get a belt sander and some coarse paper (50X, 80X). It is cheap ($100 or so,if not less), fast and perfect for those tasks.
 
Chuck,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have tried a belt sander in the past and haven't had great luck. I usually end up gouging the wood and making huge dust plumes. Maybe I need more practice.

 
Just Bill said:
Chuck,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have tried a belt sander in the past and haven't had great luck. I usually end up gouging the wood and making huge dust plumes. Maybe I need more practice.

In that case go with the Rotex it's a lot easier to control than a full-on belt sander with a lot better dust control. I have and use a 4" wide Milwaukee belt sander but find myself using it less since I purchased a Rotex 125.
 
Bill

Cheese just beat me to the punch.  It sounds like you'll be most happy with the Rotex 150.  You'll see more consistent results and be really happy the dust factor.

I recently did a large walnut glue-up.  I started leveling with my old Porter Cable belt sander.  I would have continued, but the belts kept snapping.  I guess the belts are so old, their glue-points failed.  I switched over to my Rotex 125 with 80 grit and had much better results and no dust.

From other input on the forum, the Rotex 150 is much easier to user than the 125.  If I were buying another Rotex, I'd get the 150.

Cheers,
Mark

 
Thanks for the input! Very helpful!
Can someone tell me if I would notice much difference in aggressiveness between the 150/3 and 150/5 sanders?
 
Just Bill said:
Chuck,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have tried a belt sander in the past and haven't had great luck. I usually end up gouging the wood and making huge dust plumes. Maybe I need more practice.

I agree, the belt sander has a learning curve. Fine furniture maker Christian Becksvoort has written one or two articles on it, but I can't recall if he covers the technique side. Wood magazine or Woodsmith may have tutorial articles on how to use a belt sander properly. The wide panel shown in the image was taken before it was belt-sanded (glueline) and then handplaned for a finer surface.
 

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Definitely the RO 150 with hard pad.

You'll hardly notice the difference between a ETS 150/3 and a /5.
 
I think an RO 150 will see much more use than a belt sander once you have it in hand, and be more worth the space and money to you. And the advantage of sharing sandpaper with your ETS is convenient too.
But if cost is key then a cheaper belt sander would do well. I just think the RO150 is a wonderful machine and if 150 is you’re paper of choice, it will seriously add value to your day to day. .

 
Before my comments are further misunderstood [tongue]...the belt sander is no match for the RO 150. The RO150 is more versatile and easier to use. Purely for the two tasks OP mentioned, the RO150, however, is no match in terms of cost effectiveness -- i.e., if the belt sander is in the right hands, like mine or Becksvoort's. If the sander is to be used for other general sanding tasks as well, the RO150 is a better choice.
 
For me, the Rotex sanders have a learning curve. They tend to buck around. Turning the vacuum down to about 50 percent seems to help as does holding the sander very level with the wood.

Once you tame the sander, it will perform brilliantly. Watching a few videos speeds up the learning curve.
 
Thank you to everyone. There has been a lot of helpful advice here.
I decided to go with the RO150 and ordered the Emerald edition. Hopefully they will still have it in stock when my order comes through tomorrow.
Just Bill
 
Just Bill said:
I have an older ETS 150/3 (3mm stroke) that I have used since 2011 as my only sander. It works great for final sanding grits, but it isn't the best for fast and aggressive removal of planer marks and snipe, or leveling out glued up panels. I would like to like to get an additional sander that is more aggressive to use along with the ETS 150/3.

I was considering either the ETS 150/5 (5mm stroke) or the RO 150.

I'm wondering how much more aggressive the 150/5 would be compared to my old 150/3? Is it a lot better for removing planer marks and leveling out glued up panels? Or would I wish that I had spent twice the money and bought a RO 150?

Thanks for any help!

A belt sander is prolly the fastest, most efficient means of flattening/evening up wide panels & glue-ups.

Mebbe your technique/s require revision.  Try using it like a jack plane - the other (hand) tool that's effective & efficient for flattening wide panels - by using it at an angle.  I usually work the two 45 degree angles initially for evening up the inevitable ridges, steps & troughs, before sanding (or planing with Try & Smoothing planes) with the grain.  NEVER follow up any sanding operation with handplanes or scrapers.  The embedded abrasive grits will rapidly destroy any hard-won sharp edges of your hand tool/s.  However, vice-versa is fine:  i.e. following up a Jack plane flattening with a sander.

With grits available down to an ultra-aggressive 24G there's nothing (in my experience) faster at getting rid of those annoying "steps" between planks.  One of the Holz-Her/Metabo/AEG/Atlas Copco/Milwaukee/Wolf/Kango/Wuerth/Festool belt sander clones, when fitted with their amazing sanding frames, makes for remarkably effective progress.  With an appropriately adjusted frame fitted, your belt sander becomes sufficiently delicate for veneers (with a super-fine grit belt), but also a remarkably rapid abrader (with the coarsest belts).  In essence, the addition of a frame all-but eliminates the machines' lateral gouging tendencies.

The combination of an efficient 8mm orbit and 40G Abranet HD ceramic mesh makes the super-lightweight Mirka DEROS superior even to the otherwise excellent Festo/ol Rotex 150 (using rotary mode) in material removal.  Given that there's also 5.0mm & 2.5mm DEROS models available too, these sanders will cover almost all contingencies whilst using a common suite of compatible mesh abrasives.  Using mesh abrasive allows far superior dust extraction than conventional abrasive types.  The DEROS & DEOS sanding family makes all others (at least all that I've used) seem pretty primitive in comparison.  With the exception of my big BS105E belt sander, all my other (6) Festo/ol sanders have gone the way of the Dodo with me.

In regard to the relative cleanliness & extraction of a belt sander, most good ones that Ive used over the years (Festool, Makita, Bosch, Hitachi et. al.) have been fitted as standard with a reasonably effective dustbag, which of course requires not just a good, regular shakeout but an additional vigorous "flogging" against another surface, such as one's hand, to remove the finest dust "flour" out of the filter material's interstices.  Obviously, external vacuum extraction increases dust removal and reduces downtime remarkably.

Abrasive belts will eventually clog & the aluminium oxide & silicone carbide grits will eventually lose sharpness & shed too, which will progressively reduce efficiency.  Nevertheless, the regular & judicious application of either an "abrasive eraser" or a short length of PVC water pipe to the running belt will extend belt life exponentially.

Hope this helps.
 
RO150 (Rotex) is a great match to the ETS150/3.

The random orbit  on the RO150 is 5mm and then of course there is Rotex mode. 

The combination of the two sanders gives a very broad sanding spectrum.

Seth
 
Just Bill said:
Chuck,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have tried a belt sander in the past and haven't had great luck. I usually end up gouging the wood and making huge dust plumes. Maybe I need more practice.

A belt sander with a sanding frame will not gouge. DeWalt made a nice one a few years back (DW433 maybe?) but it was plagued with problems and ate belts like they were candy. It was soon discontinued. However it had a frame that connected to the sander and you could adjust how aggressively it sanded. The frame also came with a stand that let you convert the sander into a benchtop vertical or horizontal sander. Small but useful on location. Still have mine but it's useless and DeWalt won't repair it. If you found a belt sander with a frame like the DeWalt had you might have what you need. But for one time or limited use not worth purchasing.

Here's an article about the sander by Woodworkers Journal.
https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/dewalts-dw433-kit-versatile-belt-sanding/
 
I use the 150/3 for 95% of my sanding and pull out my RO150 for when I need its additional capabilities including aggressive stock removal. The two are very complimentary.
 
Another vote for the RO 150 with your ETS 150/3.  The Rotex mode is a whole other level of surface removal that you won't get by just stepping up to a 5mm stroke orbital.

I picked up the RO 150 first for working on flooring, slabs, decks, etc.
Really impressed with how quickly it removes material and the ability to switch over to orbital.

Then I picked up the ETSC 150/3 and enjoy how ergonomic/light it is.  Makes finish sanding a real treat.
 
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