Help me go metric

Packard said:
But can you as easily divide in 3rds, 4ths and 6ths?

10 divided by 3 is messy.

12 divided by three is 4.
...
Easy. If you expect to have a need for fractions, you make your sizes in multiples of them.

The 32mm standard is about that - 32/96 - 16+16 - 24+24+24+24 - 8+8+8 etc.

Or you use base-60 sizes, but still in metric.

This is no different if using whole inches as your "base" so your fractions are then simple.

There are advantages of writing 1(") instead of 32(mm) the same as are advantages to writing 24 (mm) instead of 2/3 ("). Especially when those 2/3" are not marked anywhere and have to be approximated with power-of-2 fractions.

The decimal system is way more flexible here as you can choose to measure in a unit most suitable for he task - you would generally use unit small-enough to minimise fractions.

I make some drawings in CM, some in MM, some in M as it is easy to have them relate to each other, just moving the dot.

But as said. If 90% of what one does lends well to the 1" as a unit and sticks to power-of-2 fractions - which a lot of WW does - then inches can be more efficient for an individual workflow.

Once you need to integrate into smaller and/or bigger (like micro-electronics sizes and building-sizes) the decimal system base on a single unit goes on top.

The real "problem" is we all operate in a decimal(base 10) system otherwise as that is the standard that won the mathematics system "wars". Had we operated in a duodecimal (base 12) one, where 10" (duodecimal) would be 1' and where there would be a unit equivalent to 1/10" (duodecimal) having its own name, (equivalent to 2.116mm), and there would be 10' (3657,6mm) again having its own name. Then it may even work better using inches and feet. But we are not there and the system is "incomplete" making it "boxed-in" kinda.

/lands back on earth surface

ChuckS said:
smorgasbord said:
I don't understand why people like the FastCap tape measures. Mine sucks.Snip.
In what ways do the Fastcap tapes fall short?
Let me guess - it has a "sea" of markings, none of them clearly or easily identifiable as "main" marking. When you compare it to the metric ones (or pure imperial ones) there is just no comparison on ergonomy.
 
Birdhunter said:
I have become "ambidextrous" with respect to measurement systems. My Festool stuff (way too much) triggered my inclusion of metric.

I ended up getting Starrett rules and squares in metric to go with my Imperial measuring tools.

That said, I tend to use "go by" story sticks and other non-measurement techniques when I can.

I'm in about the same situation. I use imperial for most things, because that is how the shop drawings are done, but that is really only for the broad view. The parts that make up the whole project are measured/calculated in whatever manner seems to fit the best.
My vocational training as a machinist, way back in the day, instilled decimal equivalents in my head, so I use that whenever helps too. I use metric on the Festool things that still have it, but sadly many don't anymore?
I've been doing this jumbled mix for so long that it's second-nature to me, but certainly confuses others. I really hate the "Architect's way" of measuring feet and inches though. We are working on relatively small interior measurements, inches only works just fine 
 
mino said:
Snip.
Let me guess - it has a "sea" of markings, none of them clearly or easily identifiable as "main" marking. When you compare it to the metric ones (or pure imperial ones) there is just no comparison on ergonomy.

Well, that isn't a fair comment at all regarding the "seas" of marking. The Fastcap's metric side is just as clear as the other two metric tapes:

[attachimg=1]

When I use the Fastcap for its metric scale, I have never found it confusing. I'm still curious to know what makes the tape "suck" to (edited) smorgasbord.
 

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The only issue I've had with my FastCap yellow tapes is I think I let one of them retract too fast, too many times. There's some buckling in the edge about about 30mm from the hook.

Otherwise, they are legible and fairly consistent with the markings on my other rules and tapes.
 
ChuckS said:
mino said:
Snip.
Let me guess - it has a "sea" of markings, none of them clearly or easily identifiable as "main" marking. When you compare it to the metric ones (or pure imperial ones) there is just no comparison on ergonomy.

Well, that isn't a fair comment at all regarding the "seas" of marking. The Fastcap's metric side is just as clear as the other two metric tapes:

[attachimg=1]

When I use the Fastcap for its metric scale, I have never found it confusing. I'm still curious to know what makes the tape "suck" to Packard.

For the record, it wasn't Packard, it was smorgasbord.  Packard just said the human mind can be flexible enough to change or not change, without any commentary about the Fastcap tape.
 
I started using metric with my first Festool purchases quite some time ago.  As a professional glazier and plastic fabricator I use a Tajima 16' dual tape, Wiha dual stick tapes, 6 and 3 meter, and a conversion app on my phone.  It is much easier to weather the conversion if you in a trade that requires constant measuring...P.S. I do get ragged about always have the two Wiha in my side pockets
 
Hey, thanks everybody!  I appreciate the feedback and will definitely check out the suggestions here :-)
 
I have one of these in my pocket all the time while making stuff and own 3 of them. The 3 metre version used to be dual scale which honestly was a proper PIA because for me they should have been transposed side to side and I never used the imperial side anyway.

 
Just saw this sign IRL and so found a copy on the web to post:
[attachimg=1]
 

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Once I started with Festool all my precision work was metric.  As a US commercial glazier, most job work is imperial.  As a result, while I still have wholly imperial experience tapes, Milwaukee and Irwin, I work with a Tajima dual scale tape and Wiha dual scale folders.  The 25’ Tajima lanyard capable is clipped to my belt and a 1 meter Wiha folder in carpenter pants accessory pocket.  There is a 2 meter Wiha folder in the door pocket of my van.  Other than masons, I’ve only run into 1 or 2 other tradesman carrying folders.  This still boggles me since all the grand house built in my he past were all measured with folders.
 
rst said:
Once I started with Festool all my precision work was metric.  As a US commercial glazier, most job work is imperial.  As a result, while I still have wholly imperial experience tapes, Milwaukee and Irwin, I work with a Tajima dual scale tape and Wiha dual scale folders.  The 25’ Tajima lanyard capable is clipped to my belt and a 1 meter Wiha folder in carpenter pants accessory pocket.  There is a 2 meter Wiha folder in the door pocket of my van.  Other than masons, I’ve only run into 1 or 2 other tradesman carrying folders.  This still boggles me since all the grand house built in my he past were all measured with folders.

Have been using a 1m folding rule since day one of my apprenticeship - early 90's. Back then it was a 'required tool'. Always had a tape measure, but it was hardly used, compared to the rule. I don't think anyone I work with now uses a rule, they use a tape for everything, which can be really awkward a lot of the time.
Reminds me, I need to stock up. I like to have a couple put away, in case one breaks.
 
I too keep duplicates, I have two Tajima tapes, one a standard clip on and one that slow onto a belt clip and is safety lanyard able.  I have two 1 meter and two 2 meter Wiha folders.
 
+1 on the fastcap blue metric tapes.  Bought one.  Then a week later bought two more, took the clips off and strew them about my shop. As a result , I can usually find one most of the time. 

Bought a 150mm Starrett rule (all metric) that is too expensive (see Shinwa) but which I really love.    Have a 30 cm/1ft Mitutoyo steel rule that is also good, but I like the all metric better than the dual measure.  Bought a Lee valley measuring square (same thickness as the Starrett) which is all metric that has been very useful, especially for setups.  Great tool. 

Fun fact, I believe it is New Zealand, maybe Australia as well, where all house plans are in millimetres.  (Maybe Europe is like that, I don’t know.) No centimetres.  No metres.  Just all mm all the time.  That way, no unit based errors.  I actually took that practice on and it simplified my work/design a lot.  No guessing.  Just always use mm and measuring/reading is literally always easy and (practically) foolproof.  As one other poster mentioned.  The worst you wind up with, even in fine woodwork, is half a mm.  Half of 15 mm is 7.5.  Half of 151 is 75.5.  It’s so simple I can do it. Base 10 math is easy. 

My large collection of freedom-unit tapes are now for yardwork. I find the dual measure tapes inconvenient because 1/4 of the time the unit I want is on the wrong side of the tape. 
 
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