Help on Painting Kitchen Cabinets

[tiralie]

... and sprayed SW ProClassic as needed. I do not consider that paint to be thick at all. I sprayed with a Fuji Q4/XPC guns/1.4 tip/PPS cups and didn't have any problems spraying the paint with only 2 oz of Floetrol per qt added, no thinning with water.

Interesting, I would have thought it would be too thick to spray with a Q4 even thinned 10% with distilled water.
I am going to try this. I hate brushing ProClassic.
Tim

 

[tjbnwi]

... and sprayed SW ProClassic as needed. I do not consider that paint to be thick at all. I sprayed with a Fuji Q4/XPC guns/1.4 tip/PPS cups and didn't have any problems spraying the paint with only 2 oz of Floetrol per qt added, no thinning with water.

Interesting, I would have thought it would be too thick to spray with a Q4 even thinned 10% with distilled water.
I am going to try this. I hate brushing ProClassic.
Tim

Pro Classic sprays very well using a Q4. No need to thin it.

Tom

 

[butzla]

I just now came in from the shop having finished spraying some louvered doors using ProClassic with my Fuji MM4 with a 1.8mm tip.  I thinned by eye ~20% car wiper fluid with a dash of Floetrol to a 30 sec. flow in the viscosity cup.  Came out pissuh.  [thumbs up]

I forgot to preface I sanded already painted doors from 80 to 220 grit then sprayed 2 coats of SW Wall and Trim primer sanding by hand with 320 after each coat.  I can't say enough about this primer!

 

[jyarbrou]

I just now came in from the shop having finished spraying some louvered doors using ProClassic with my Fuji MM4 with a 1.8mm tip.  I thinned by eye ~20% car wiper fluid with a dash of Floetrol to a 30 sec. flow in the viscosity cup.  Came out pissuh.  [thumbs up]

I forgot to preface I sanded already painted doors from 80 to 220 grit then sprayed 2 coats of SW Wall and Trim primer sanding by hand with 320 after each coat.  I can't say enough about this primer!

What are you using to spray the Primer?

 

[bkharman]

I just now came in from the shop having finished spraying some louvered doors using ProClassic with my Fuji MM4 with a 1.8mm tip.  I thinned by eye ~20% car wiper fluid with a dash of Floetrol to a 30 sec. flow in the viscosity cup.  Came out pissuh.  [thumbs up]

I forgot to preface I sanded already painted doors from 80 to 220 grit then sprayed 2 coats of SW Wall and Trim primer sanding by hand with 320 after each coat.  I can't say enough about this primer!

My favorite quote from Scott Burt about SW W&W is "this stuff is great on wood, walls not so much, unless your wall is made of wood."

Cheers. Bryan.

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[butzla]

I just now came in from the shop having finished spraying some louvered doors using ProClassic with my Fuji MM4 with a 1.8mm tip.  I thinned by eye ~20% car wiper fluid with a dash of Floetrol to a 30 sec. flow in the viscosity cup.  Came out pissuh.  [thumbs up]

I forgot to preface I sanded already painted doors from 80 to 220 grit then sprayed 2 coats of SW Wall and Trim primer sanding by hand with 320 after each coat.  I can't say enough about this primer!

What are you using to spray the Primer?

The same setup

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[usatu]

Can you please show a little more detail how you built that end panel? I am trying to do the same kind. Thanks so much!

+1 for floetrol with latex.  Penetrol for oil paint.

I'd suggest using a 3/4 (or thicker) end panel which can be applied with screws to the end of the run.

1/4"ers are amateur hour and cheap looking in my view.

I did pick up the floetrol last night and some of the rollers suggested by JCLP .  Thank you for your suggestion.  I can see that now, of course after I built the cabinets and have no room to add the thicker sides.  I am very amateur as this is my first attempt at cabinets, but with all of your help and a lot of help from Erock,  I am muddling through them.

I think what people are saying is to make a false door to attach to the sides. I made an end panel for an island recently to do just that.  Here are a few shots of it.

Cheers. Bryan.

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[bkharman]

Can you please show a little more detail how you built that end panel? I am trying to do the same kind. Thanks so much!

I think what people are saying is to make a false door to attach to the sides. I made an end panel for an island recently to do just that.  Here are a few shots of it.

Cheers. Bryan.

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Are you trying to do the exact same thing I posted in the pics?  Or do you have upper cabinets that need it?

Cheers. Bryan.

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[usatu]

Exactly same thing to my island. I was originally planning to add moldings till I saw your panel which matches with my other cabinet doors. Thank you!

Can you please show a little more detail how you built that end panel? I am trying to do the same kind. Thanks so much!

I think what people are saying is to make a false door to attach to the sides. I made an end panel for an island recently to do just that.  Here are a few shots of it.

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you trying to do the exact same thing I posted in the pics?  Or do you have upper cabinets that need it?

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bkharman]

Exactly same thing to my island. I was originally planning to add moldings till I saw your panel which matches with my other cabinet doors. Thank you!

So another question. Did you build your own cabinets and doors?  Or is this just to add to an existing cabinet from a manufacturer?  Is the existing cabinet painted or stained?  Trust me, these questions are for good reasons. ;^)

The panels I made were very similar to the doors and drawers I made so the complete project was done with the same router bits and materials which helps in the consistency department. If you are trying to retrofit, it might be quite a bit harder to do.

Basic rail and stile (five piece doors) construction was used here. The main difference for the larger panels is that I have a center "stile" between the two large panels. I made the rails and stiles out of ¾" maple for durability and the center panels are MDF to be stable and cheap. Of course if you are staining to match, this is most likely not an option.  All of the parts got a couple coats of Zinsser BIN, were assembled and then a bath of Sherwin Williams Pro Classic.  On one side I had an electrical box to contend with but my MFS helped a lot to route it out.

All in all it isn't difficult but it will depend on your skill set and how comfortable you are. I have a fair amount of handheld tools and power tools that make it easier for me, but with a few basics and some quality s4s wood, you can make them as well. For this project, you will need at least a router table and a way to crosscut the hardwood and panels (a tracksaw will do fine).

Maybe write back with a few answers to the above and we can get you moving. In the meantime here are a few pics of the MFS in action to route that electrical box.

Cheers. Bryan.

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[tjbnwi]

Another electrical outlet install. Used the MFK to make the jig I used. I live and work in the land of raceways.

Tom

 

[jwaite550]

+1 for floetrol with latex.  Penetrol for oil paint.

I'd suggest using a 3/4 (or thicker) end panel which can be applied with screws to the end of the run.

1/4"ers are amateur hour and cheap looking in my view.

I did pick up the floetrol last night and some of the rollers suggested by JCLP .  Thank you for your suggestion.  I can see that now, of course after I built the cabinets and have no room to add the thicker sides.  I am very amateur as this is my first attempt at cabinets, but with all of your help and a lot of help from Erock,  I am muddling through them.

I think what people are saying is to make a false door to attach to the sides. I made an end panel for an island recently to do just that.  Here are a few shots of it.

Cheers. Bryan.

Thanks Bryan.  I only have to put end panels on 2 upper cabinets that has less than half the end showing.  I have a 30" tall cabinet, 18" cabinet and another 30" cabinet.  Ends on base cabinets don't show at all.  I really appreciate the help!!  Jeff

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[usatu]

I give up on the first question  [big grin] Never build my own cabinet before. Now I understand why people to fake doors or moldings. We don't have the tools or skills to build it. 
But thank you very much for all the details and hopefully some one can benefit from them.

So another question. Did you build your own cabinets and doors?  Or is this just to add to an existing cabinet from a manufacturer?  Is the existing cabinet painted or stained?  Trust me, these questions are for good reasons. ;^)

The panels I made were very similar to the doors and drawers I made so the complete project was done with the same router bits and materials which helps in the consistency department. If you are trying to retrofit, it might be quite a bit harder to do.

Basic rail and stile (five piece doors) construction was used here. The main difference for the larger panels is that I have a center "stile" between the two large panels. I made the rails and stiles out of ¾" maple for durability and the center panels are MDF to be stable and cheap. Of course if you are staining to match, this is most likely not an option.  All of the parts got a couple coats of Zinsser BIN, were assembled and then a bath of Sherwin Williams Pro Classic.  On one side I had an electrical box to contend with but my MFS helped a lot to route it out.

All in all it isn't difficult but it will depend on your skill set and how comfortable you are. I have a fair amount of handheld tools and power tools that make it easier for me, but with a few basics and some quality s4s wood, you can make them as well. For this project, you will need at least a router table and a way to crosscut the hardwood and panels (a tracksaw will do fine).

Maybe write back with a few answers to the above and we can get you moving. In the meantime here are a few pics of the MFS in action to route that electrical box.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[Pnw painter]

Before you start painting your cabinets I'd recommend brushing or rolling a few samples. If you add too much Floetrol it's easier to get runs. If you lay the doors flat to dry it helps the paint level. Of course this means you can only paint one side at a time.

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[wptski]

Before you start painting your cabinets I'd recommend brushing or rolling a few samples. If you add too much Floetrol it's easier to get runs. If you lay the doors flat to dry it helps the paint level. Of course this means you can only paint one side at a time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything has an edge to have a run on though!

 

[rnt80]

... and sprayed SW ProClassic as needed. I do not consider that paint to be thick at all. I sprayed with a Fuji Q4/XPC guns/1.4 tip/PPS cups and didn't have any problems spraying the paint with only 2 oz of Floetrol per qt added, no thinning with water.

Interesting, I would have thought it would be too thick to spray with a Q4 even thinned 10% with distilled water.
I am going to try this. I hate brushing ProClassic.
Tim

Pro Classic sprays very well using a Q4. No need to thin it.

Tom

Tom, what size tip have you used?

 

[tjbnwi]

1.5mm

Tom