Help... Please... My laminate is not sticking

[msw]

Hello:

I tried to glue the laminate to the MDF board and it is not sticking.  First, I used a product called "BondRite WC75" spray.  When I sprayed it, it came very gummy. 

So, I waited and went to Home Depot and brought "Weldwood" contact cement.  I applied it directly over the "Bondrite" on both the Laminate (which did not have any "Bondrite" applied") as well as the MDF (which did have the "Bondrite" applied).  Waited 30 minutes before trying to glue it and put it together but it is not sticking.

I was trying to do my router table top.  In order to do the router table top, do I need a specific laminate thickness.

Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.  Can I salvage what I have?

 

[Tim Sproul]

You might try to reactivate the adhesive with a warm (not hot hot hot, just warm enough to get the adhesive to stick) iron.

You may also have problems between the spray adhesive and the contact cement.  They may be incompatible.  If so, it is probably easier to start over rather than using a lot of solvent to remove both adhesives.

 

[webdesigner]

Hi msw,

The Weldwood contact cement is one of the strongest I've ever used! It smells, but has a lot of holding power.
I believe the Bondrite spray glue is causing the problem. Both surfaces need to be clean and free of any glues or film.
Once the Weldwood cement is dry (or just a little tacky), the laminate can be laid down with a pressure roller from one end to another.
Careful, once the two sides touch it's on for good!! I keep the two pieces separated with large dowels until I'm ready to fuse the two halves together.
Then, I slowly lower the laminate down inch by inch, usually working left to right.
Yes, maybe you can salvage it by cleaning off the glues and start again.

Have fun!
G

 

[Qwas]

Is there a shelf life to contact cement? I have some that is 7-8 years old and I have a laminate job coming up.

 

[sw1211]

I wouldn't risk it, buy some new cement.  Is it worth possibly ruining your laminate?

 

[Bill Wyko]

You might have to get some wax & grease remover and remove the old stuff and start over. I have found that if you use any adhesive with MEK (Methyl Ethel ketone) as an ingredient, it will break down weldwood and it won't dry properly. Wax & Grease remover is available at automotive paint suppliers for around 15 bucks a gallon. It removes weldwood easily.

 

[Mirko]

MSW

I did a search on this BondRite WC75 stuff and came up with nothing, never heard of it, nor do I care to.
Did it smell like lacquer thinner?

I only use roll on contact cement that is yellow, this is the solvent based stuff. I also like the greenish blue water based stuff, its great.

If that BondRite WC75 smells like lacquer thinner, follow these steps.

1) Put lacquer thinner in a new glue bottle

2) stand countertop up on one end

3) with putty knife, pry laminate away from core, and let the lacquer thinner penetrate. it will begin to cut through like butter ( wear goggles!)
 
4) once they are apart, let everything dry. then scuff with course sandpaper (40-60 grit)

5) Start over, but this time use contact cement that can be rolled on, in this case, use solvent based cement, apply two light coats, allowing to fully dry between coats, check with the top of your hand, it should NOT stick, do not use your palm it is too oily.

6) stick together, press it down, disco  8)

Mirko

 

[Michael Kellough]

MSW

I did a search on this BondRite WC75 stuff and came up with nothing, never heard of it, nor do I care to.
Did it smell like lacquer thinner?

I only use roll on contact cement that is yellow, this is the solvent based stuff. I also like the greenish blue water based stuff, its great.

If that BondRite WC75 smells like lacquer thinner, follow these steps.

1) Put lacquer thinner in a new glue bottle

2) stand countertop up on one end

3) with putty knife, pry laminate away from core, and let the lacquer thinner penetrate. it will begin to cut through like butter ( wear goggles!)
 
4) once they are apart, let everything dry. then scuff with course sandpaper (40-60 grit)

5) Start over, but this time use contact cement that can be rolled on, in this case, use solvent based cement, apply two light coats, allowing to fully dry between coats, check with the top of your hand, it should NOT stick, do not use your palm it is too oily.

6) stick together, press it down, disco  8)

Mirko

Good advice Mirko!

On the wb Weldwood, the first time I tried it it worked great! I could use it on a set and didn't make people complain about the odor. It dries fast enough that I could brush on two coats fairly quickly and it went on smoothly with a foam brush. And it stuck great too.

Next time I tried it it refused to stick to itself  ??? Both parts coated and dry and even after clamping they would fall apart. A single piece left sitting glue side down after being discard would become fused to the floor or whatever. It was like the glue repelled itself. Very weird and disappointing. My fall back adhesive was/is 3M 77 spray. It never fails.

 

[Bill Wyko]

Are you in a high humidity area? I spray weldwood and I've found that humidity will cause all kinds of problems. it will usually build a thin film over it and it won't stick. I have to use a space heater to evaporate the film away. I use gallons of the stuff for upholstery and laminating and only seem to have issues durring the Monsoon season when we have high humidity.

 

[Roland Chung]

I did a small project using the waterbased contact cement during cold weather.  The company was very concerned about fumes and specified the waterbased material and insisted that I work outdoors - in the winter.  In CA, the winters are not too harsh, but hours later, the glue still hadn't dried to the non-cloudy, ready to stick state.

 

[msw]

Thank you All for your reply. 

The contact cement I have was white inside the can.  It is manufactured by DAP.

Would you recommendation work on the MDF also.  Do I do the same to the MDF with the thinner and sand paper.

Thank you for your help.

Moataz..