Help with choice of Festool routers

[digilante]

Hi,

Today I took delivery of probably one of the last new CMS-OF router modules on the planet - blind luck, a store found one buried in the back room. Until now I have been using a big Bosch router in a custom table.

Taking into account that I'm just too uncoordinated to do precise hand held routing with a 20 pound OF 2200, and taking into account that I have a great collection of 1/2" Dimar router bits...

1. I am thinking of getting the bare OF 2200 to dedicate to the CMS-OF module. It can do the hard work, the big cuts, and I can get a 1/2" collet to replace the 12mm I'll get here in Europe.

2. Wait for a cordless version of the OF 1010 for hand held work. It's a pity it will only take 6mm bits, meaning spending money on duplicates of what I already have... on the other hand what do I need for the OF 1010, especially if used with the VS600 system? Dovetail, straight, and a few roundover bits, so it's not that much to buy.

The other option would be to get a 1400 and take in and out of the CMS-OF each time I need to do something hand held. It can take my 1/2" bits, as well as 6mm bits e.g. when used with the VS600...

Any advice appreciated. Is it a pipe dream to wait for a cordless 1010?

Cheers
Peter.

 

[dltflt]

I would definitely go for the 2200 for the CMS. Then get the 1010 or 1400 for hand held work. I have the 1400 and love it.  Sometimes I would like a smaller router but always make due.

 

[rst]

I have two 2200s, one stays in my dual CMS.  The other can be put in the other side when setup for cope and stick, but is kept out usually for heavy pattern routing and slab flattening.  My 1400 is my most used router.

 

[mino]

2. Wait for a cordless version of the OF 1010 for hand held work. It's a pity it will only take 6mm bits, meaning spending money on duplicates of what I already have... on the other hand what do I need for the OF 1010, especially if used with the VS600 system? Dovetail, straight, and a few roundover bits, so it's not that much to buy.

The OF1010 is an "8mm bit tool" first and foremost that can do 6mm. Not the other way around.
There is no point buying general 6mm bits for it (not in Europe, nor in US where 1/4 are prevalent).

I do not have one, but by all reports the OF2200 is much easier to control than its weight class would indicate. If you can, get it for the CMS. You can take it out for the occasional big hand job and use OF1010 for the handy work.

That is the optimal combo in a "bit costs be damned" scenario.

On the other hand, if you want to use 12.7 bits due to having a big collection already, getting the OF1400 first may be a better option. If you do not like it for handheld use (too big) you can dedicate it to the CMS. If you do like it, you can add OF2200 for the CMS and keep the 1400 for hand use.

 

[Cheese]

I just converted my CMS with a 1400 to a 2200 instead and despite freeing up the 1400 router, I'll still use the 1010 for hand-held stuff using 8 mm & 1/4" bits.

I already use the 1010 for 60% of my routing needs and for 85% of my hand-routing needs. The 1010 is an extremely capable router and remember Festool designed the 50 mm diameter rebating head to be used with the 1010 first so for a small router there's power to spare.

[attachimg=1]

 

[digilante]

Thank you all for your comments. I stand corrected, indeed the OF 1010 is an 8mm shank router, just seems that whenever I read about it, it tends to be mentioned along with 6mm bits.

Otherwise, it seems clear that I should start with a bare OF 2200 for the CMS OF module, and then see. While money is not the primary concern, having two OF 2200s would be a bit much for me ;-)

Peter.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I would think that in all but commercial shop situations having 2 OF2200s would be a bit much for anyone. Having one in a table for the biggest percentage of time and taking it out when needed seems like the best solution. Either the OF1400 or OF1010 as the one for the majority of handheld use would depend on what you need it for the most. A lot of that depends on what you make or how you make it. Most would probably recommend the OF1010 of you use template guides. It is a bit more involved to install one, but they can be adjusted to center on the OF1010. The OF1400 might be better if you use bigger bits more often or use the fixtures that snap into the base.  If you would regularly use the chip collector for edge cuts or snap in the table widener, the OF1400 is more handy for that.
I have and regularly use both, but I do not have a OF2200. I have a Triton 3 1/4hp router mounted in my table. The winding mechanism and above the table bit changes make it act very much like a built-in routerlift, better actually because it is a one wrench job.

 

[BigDan]

I would think that in all but commercial shop situations having 2 OF2200s would be a bit much for anyone. Having one in a table for the biggest percentage of time and taking it out when needed seems like the best solution. Either the OF1400 or OF1010 as the one for the majority of handheld use would depend on what you need it for the most. A lot of that depends on what you make or how you make it. Most would probably recommend the OF1010 of you use template guides. It is a bit more involved to install one, but they can be adjusted to center on the OF1010. The OF1400 might be better if you use bigger bits more often or use the fixtures that snap into the base.  If you would regularly use the chip collector for edge cuts or snap in the table widener, the OF1400 is more handy for that.
I have and regularly use both, but I do not have a OF2200. I have a Triton 3 1/4hp router mounted in my table. The winding mechanism and above the table bit changes make it act very much like a built-in routerlift, better actually because it is a one wrench job.

THIS!  The Tritons are awesome for a Router Table because they remove the requirement for an expensive lift table.  Since they can be had for under 300 bucks, you also get to keep more of your money for a 1010 or 1400 to do handheld operations where features really matter.  Only my $0.02 but my Triton has been in my Sommerfeld 27x36" table for 3 years of near daily use and still works perfectly.  Im a fan. 

I wish you success in your decisionmaking and since most here have multiple ways to do a thing...  might as well hear all the options and successes as well as failures.  It will help make an informed decision for sure.

Thanks
Dan

 

[Coen]

Yes, but the Triton router defeats part of the purpose of the CMS... // does it even fit the CMS?

 

[Rick Herrick]

I have and regularly use both, but I do not have a OF2200. I have a Triton 3 1/4hp router mounted in my table. The winding mechanism and above the table bit changes make it act very much like a built-in routerlift, better actually because it is a one wrench job.

I also use the bigger Triton in a homemade table.  Do you ever find the bit height dropping a tad?  I have started using it more often on some table legs and I could feel it dropping in height.  Its not much but its enough that I could it on the leg.  So far that is the only problem I have had with the Triton. 

 

[digilante]

Hi,

Now that you bring up Triton, I nervously admit that all my old stuff is Triton (saw, height adjustment, dust collection) and router table with a big fat Bosch blue router.The Triton products produce work of lesser accuracy than Festool, but man, they have had some innovations that are just missing in Festool. e.g. on the Triton router table, you can fine adjust BOTH fences, and thus keep the entire fence line square to the (admittedly puny) push-fence. I am really surprised that the Festool CMS-OF has fine adjustment only on the infeed fence, and not the outfeed, so it's a continuous game of squaring the whole lot up every time.

I was going to get rid of all my Triton stuff now that I scrounged all the last CMS modules and accessories, but now I'm thinking that I may just keep them.

Thanks for all the advice. Anyway, decision 1 is made - OF 2200 bare, just for the CMS-OF module for now.

Peter.

 

[CeeJay]

For me an OF-2200 in a router table is a bit of a waste. A $250 Triton, Makita or Bosch is all you really need in a router table IMHO.

Taking a router in and out of a table is a real PITA.

A solid, powerful 1/2” router mounted in a good lift in the table plus a 2200 or 1400 for handheld use is in my book a better solution. Most of the great functionality of a Festool router is lost once it is table mounted.

Not having a CMS I could be missing the point, but for ‘regular’ router table use I think Festool is overkill.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mino]

For me an OF-2200 in a router table is a bit of a waste. A $250 Triton, Makita or Bosch is all you really need in a router table IMHO.

Taking a router in and out of a table is a real PITA.

A solid, powerful 1/2” router mounted in a good lift in the table plus a 2200 or 1400 for handheld use is in my book a better solution. Most of the great functionality of a Festool router is lost once it is table mounted.

Not having a CMS I could be missing the point, but for ‘regular’ router table use I think Festool is overkill.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remember that the most expensive thing about the OF2200 is the spindle itself. The accuracy, balancing and the load it can take are not cheap. Take a look at prices of 2000 Wattt+ professional CNC spindles .. that is the territory the OF2200 lives in.

It sure is an overkill for the occasional user.
But I would never consider the pretty-much-the-most-expensive-handheld-router as "suitable for the occasional user" to begin with. YMMV

Once someone wants/needs/has-the-case-for a CMS, slapping a Triton in it seems counter-intuitive. Not that it could not be done ...  friend has a cheapo $200 OEM router in his Basis stand for a decade and is happy with the combo.

 

[BigDan]

I have and regularly use both, but I do not have a OF2200. I have a Triton 3 1/4hp router mounted in my table. The winding mechanism and above the table bit changes make it act very much like a built-in routerlift, better actually because it is a one wrench job.

I also use the bigger Triton in a homemade table.  Do you ever find the bit height dropping a tad?  I have started using it more often on some table legs and I could feel it dropping in height.  Its not much but its enough that I could it on the leg.  So far that is the only problem I have had with the Triton.

Rick,

Never had a bit drop.  However I do use "matched" rail and stile bits (Sommerfeld) to each other and place one of his rubber grommets in the bottom of the collet.  Since it always sits there (looks to be 1/8" in height), and the bit is now bottomed out on the grommet it holds perfectly and allows my "matched" set of rail and stile bits to fit perfectly every time.  I have made over 150 hundred doors with that setup and have not needed to sand that seam yet.  Most folks are taught to not bottom out the bit in the collet because of the mechanics of the tightening function of the collet draws down the bit a little in the process of getting a good tight fit, however, with the grommet, it allows for the collet to function properly by compressing the grommet and helps to ensure the bit doesn't drift down while in operation and guarantees each bit is exactly in the same height when you tighten them so you don't have to readjust your router when you change from Rail and Stile.  Very helpful when doing doors or glass panels.  In the video I linked above, He discusses how it works and I have found it very useful for my workflow.
  I have a few cabinet shops near me in Chesapeake/Virginia Beach area and they also use his Cabinet making sets...with the Grommet.  So while not trying to sell his stuff, I can say his $0.50 grommet never lets my bits drop at all.  They look like something you could get at carquest or Advance Auto parts just as easily.  To be fair, if I never saw his vids, I would never have heard nor seen this grommet idea.  My son also uses the grommet on his Bosch for similar reasons and he never sees any bit drift either.

I noticed you are in NC... if you are ever in the Chesapeake, Va Beach area, send me a PM and feel free to drop by.  I'll keep the coffee hot and the fridge stocked!

Thanks
Have a great Day

Dan

 

[Rick Herrick]

[member=69213]BigDan[/member] Hi Dan.  Good info on the door making area.  I will get to that at some point.  My issue here is not really with the bit dropping in the collet.  Its with the Triton height adjustment.  I loosen the lever so that I can move the height up and down, get it set where I want and then tighten the lever.  Even when I do the height adjustment, I can feel it 'clunking down' when I lower it.  Its not what I would call a good, smooth motion.  Its not bad, but I can feel it.  My little Dewalt DW745 table saw does the same thing sometimes, but that's usually because of dust build up that I have to clean out.  I just got the WP router table and their Super Fence.  I couldn't spring for their router lift just yet as I want to get more mileage out of the Triton. 

Haven't been to VA in a long time but both me and my Dad spent a lot of years at NAS Oceana.  My oldest was born in the Portsmouth Naval Hospital.  But never really been to Chesapeake proper.  Not sure why...  Wouldn't mind a trip back though. 

 

[Stone Message]

Hi [member=68658]digilante[/member]

I did have my OF2200 in my CMS unit for about a year or so but then changed and put the OF1400 in there instead.

You say that the OF2200 is a big machine and difficult to handle but I have found it to be particularly easy to use and with far better dust extraction than any other router I have owned or used. It has a very gentle soft start and twin hand grips and despite my arthritis I have managed some delicate work with it as well.

The OF1400 in the CMS is perfect as it has all the power necessary even for the largest of my raised panel cutters. I also like the extra safety feature of having to un-set the always on button next to the trigger in order to get the shaft lock to work for cutter changes. The less than ideal layout of the OF1400 dust collection (flimsy plastic parts) is not an issue in the static environment of the router table.

Peter

 

[Michael Kellough]

How easy/quick is it to install/remove the OF2200 from the CMS?

Some of the best features of the OF2200 are rendered irrelevant when it is captured upside down in a table. It would be a shame to loose those features because it is too inconvenient to remove it from the CMS.

 

[Stone Message]

How easy/quick is it to install/remove the OF2200 from the CMS?

Some of the best features of the OF2200 are rendered irrelevant when it is captured upside down in a table. It would be a shame to loose those features because it is too inconvenient to remove it from the CMS.

It takes about 2 minutes but when you are busy that can seem a very long time. Most of my professional woodworking friends will buy another drill in order to save the time it takes to change screwdriver bits and I am sure many here on the FOG will tell you that they have several routers which for production work means time saved changing cutters.

Peter

 

[digilante]

Hi,

I have never had the opportunity to handle a Festool router. My old Bosch blue GOF-whatever is also around 20 pounds, but from the very start the "pillars" on which you lower and raise the router were not smooth going - it was really an uncomfortable, unpredictable, and uneven movement leading to mistakes and ruined wood - no smooth start too.

I can imagine, no matter what the weight, if the movement down is smooth and predictable and it has a soft start, then it should be quite a pleasure to use.

Well, so a few messages before this one I decided on the 2200 for the CMS-OF module... now I don't know anymore ;-) Thanks guys ;-) Seems the 1400 could do as good a job... I would still love a cordless 1010 though, for light hand work and for use with the templating system.

Thanks again,
Peter.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

How easy/quick is it to install/remove the OF2200 from the CMS?

Some of the best features of the OF2200 are rendered irrelevant when it is captured upside down in a table. It would be a shame to loose those features because it is too inconvenient to remove it from the CMS.

It takes about 2 minutes but when you are busy that can seem a very long time. Most of my professional woodworking friends will buy another drill in order to save the time it takes to change screwdriver bits and I am sure many here on the FOG will tell you that they have several routers which for production work means time saved changing cutters.

Peter

I am one of those. I have several routers that are ready at all times for specific functions. They all have one bit that only comes out to be sharpened or replaced. The Triton in the table, the OF1400 and the OF1010 are the only ones that do multiple jobs. Two Makita drills, 2 Makita impact drivers, plus a CXS and a corded Dewalt hammer drill, sometimes they are all out at once. The hammer drill doesn't get much use, but it sure is handy at times.