Help with sander selection and process for cabinet finishing

egcn

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Jun 1, 2023
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Looking for some help getting some cabinets and a breakfast nook finished. I paid a custom cabinet company to build and install a walnut breakfast nook and some cabinets with solid walnut and veneer on cabinet faces. They didnt end up finishing them at all and delivered and installed them unfinished. So i'm stuck finishing them myself. I've tested out a ton of stains on sample boards and ended up on Waterlox sealer and finish. I'm going to need to sand and finish them in place since its all already installed.

Here's where i'm needing clarification on the right process. The cabinets and everything are already quite smooth but i don't know what grit they were sanded to. Waterlox calls for sanding to only 150 grit prior to applying. Should I sand another fresh coat to 150 or start at 120 then 150 prior to applying the first coat?

Second question is whats the best sander for this? I have a rotex ro 90 and ct 26. Is this the best best option for this? was thinking so since can use the fine sanding mode and triangle for corners.
 
Welcome to the forum egcn.

I’m sure someone with more knowledge than me will be along soon. In my opinion, the rotax will work just fine. Keep the sanding surface flat on the workpiece.

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RO90 could be used , but it's a two handed machine in order to keep from getting gouges. 

If the surface is already smooth and defect free, I would not worry about whether they used 120 or 150g , or even 220g - and-    I wouldn't spend the time or risk just to check off a box.  The shop surely prepped it ready for finish.

I'd also suggest osmo instead of waterlox.  Easier to apply, no sealer required and it doesn't leave a film like WL. 
 
Sounds like they’re already smooth enough for Waterlox but that finish is mainly intended for floors, hence the lower grit spec.

Already installed and smooth I’d stick with light hand sanding with the grain to simply remove scuffs from handling. If dust is a concern Mirka makes a hand sanding block (there is also a Festool branded version?) using mesh abrasives that you can attach a vac hose to.

Do a test on the inside of a cabinet door to see if sanding is required.
 
Michael Kellough said:
Sounds like they’re already smooth enough for Waterlox but that finish is mainly intended for floors, hence the lower grit spec.

Already installed and smooth I’d stick with light hand sanding with the grain to simply remove scuffs from handling. If dust is a concern Mirka makes a hand sanding block (there is also a Festool branded version?) using mesh abrasives that you can attach a vac hose to.

Do a test on the inside of a cabinet door to see if sanding is required.

Would you suggest just a light hand sanding with 180 or 220 in any areas that may have scuffs or small defects? I've also heard I should sprits it all with water to raise the grain and give it a light sand prior to the first coat of sealer/finish.

Michael Kellough said:
Following xedos’s suggestion on finish, since you have walnut, consider using the finish Sam Maloof used on his walnut furniture. Rockler’ s version of the Maloof poly/oil finish.

I actually picked up some sam maloof and put that on some sample boards. It came out as a second choice to Waterlox which I slightly preferred the look of and seemed a bit more resilient in scratch testing. Perhaps it was the application processes. Waterlox I put 2 x coats of sealer on with 3 coats of finish after that and used a light 0000 steel wool run between coats. Sam Maloof I believe I did 2 x sealer 2 x finish no sanding or steel wool between. Should I have or should I be buffing between coats of the finish with a buffer pad or something?
 
egcn said:
I paid a custom cabinet company to build and install a walnut breakfast nook and some cabinets with solid walnut and veneer on cabinet faces. They didnt end up finishing them at all and delivered and installed them unfinished. So i'm stuck finishing them myself.

This sounds a bit funny to me (odd not laughing) It seems like it was a surprise to you? That should have been a negotiated part of the deal. Even if they never do any finishing, it should have been disclosed.
I am usually a spray lacquer type for this kind of thing, but I would never consider that with installed goods. It's way too late now.
Beyond that, I would go with a wiping finish like Osmo or Rubio. They are far easier and more forgiving.
Water-based finishes are ok and have come a long way, really long, but I have never had good results with brushing. Spray, yes, but again....out of the question now.
 
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