HKC 55 EB review

[pingvinlakrits]

I have been to the Festool dealership twice during the week but I have been so busy with "catching up" at work as well as picking up warranty repairs (Festool sander... ...grrrr...) and general chit chat about tools and I have totally forgotten about checking up on the blade variation.

I will try to remember the caliper on monday... ...I do think that if Festool labels blades as not recommended and even crossed out there is a reason for that and that reason is most likely the lack of cross compatibility between blades and machines. I hope to be able to help sort out the blade issues but none that I have spoken to so far have been more informed (including Festool employees) than we already are in this thread - so the question marks remain.

ifit: ouch! I have some nicks on my Mafell rail and had to replace the splinter strip due to a colleague doing exactly what you did. After that he doesn't want to borrow my Mafell - and I don't let him.
 

 

[amcore]

I got my HKC 55 Li 5,2 EB-Plus-FSK420 today! WOHOOO, its awesome! but i beliewd that the saw was smaller, its almost the size of a TS55  [huh], well i also have the Makita DHS680 so i think i will be satisfied anyway  [thumbs up]

 

[pingvinlakrits]

Popped in to the dealership yesterday and confirmed that the HKC 55 blades are indeed thinner and though I am not knowing if the digital caliper was up to scratch it would at least reveal the difference in blade thickness, kerf width excluded.

Standard TS55 W48 blade measured to 1.65mm blade thickness.
Standard HKC 55 blade (supplied with the machine) 1.24mm blade thickness. 

amcore: let us know how you like it after a little while. 

 

[jonny round boy]

Standard TS55 W48 blade measured to 1.65mm blade thickness.
Standard HKC 55 blade (supplied with the machine) 1.24mm blade thickness. 

The offset from the blade arbor to the inside cutting edge (i.e. the edge of the splinter guard) would be: (tooth width minus plate width) divided by 2.

So based on those measurements, the offset on the TS(C) would be (2.2 - 1.65) /2 = 0.275mm;

The offset on the HKC would be (1.8 - 1.24) /2 = 0.28mm.

Therefore, the difference in the offsets is 0.005mm, which is negligible, and probably less than the accuracy of the calipers used (I suspect that the reading of 1.24mm is actually 1.25mm, making the difference zero).

I would propose that the only reason that the HKC blades shouldn't be used on the TS(C) is that the riving knife on the TS(C) would be too thick, and would bind in the cut. I don't see any reason why, if a thinner riving knife was fitted at the same time, they couldn't be used. Though of course I'm sure Festool would not recommend that...

 

[Phil Beckley]

I would propose that the only reason that the HKC blades shouldn't be used on the TS(C) is that the riving knife on the TS(C) would be too thick, and would bind in the cut. I don't see any reason why, if a thinner riving knife was fitted at the same time, they couldn't be used. Though of course I'm sure Festool would not recommend that...
[/quote]

Correct
rg
Phil

 

[Nippychippy]

Ok my  [2cents] oh this great saw it will do anything any more a cordless skill saw will do its up there as one of my best tools.  but my one gripe with it us it should come with the side fence for the jobs you need to have a bit of a body on that side of the saw

 

[Davej]

Could also be because the thinner plate won't clamp tight to the arbor !
Dave

 

[pingvinlakrits]

Jonnyroundboy: yes, I would say that it might as well have been 1.25 mm, I did three takes on both blades and got same readings on two out of three readings on the HKC55 blade and same reading on all three on the standard blade. Thanks for doing the maths. It seems like a non issue then.

I concur that the riving knife would be the limiting factor  - and I think we established that quite early in the thread - no?

 

[ifit]

I used mine for cutting a lot of mdc last week then this week i used it for cutting the bottoms off fire doors and it seemed a bit underpowered so not sure if I have dulled the blade or it is a bit underpowered for fire doors

 

[pingvinlakrits]

If you were cutting the doors in one go I am sure the machine struggled some. Did you cut in one pass or several?

 

[jools]

[member=13266]ifit[/member] Likely wrong blade choice for ripping. The supplied blade is suitable for coarse cross cutting. Like the ts55 the panther blade will be a better bet for rip cuts. I have however ripped treated framing timbers with the standard blade with ok results. MDF is fairly abrasive on blades so it could have dulled.
[member=18793]Nippychippy[/member] I agree on the the parallel guide being included. £42.12 list price is a bit steep.
Have we a definitive answer on using it on ordinary rails? Does it recut the splinter guard thus affecting your ts55 cut?

 

[Nippychippy]

That's weird [member=24463]jools[/member]  mine didn't

 

[jools]

It wasn't included in mine, I was agreeing it should be and its an expensive accessory. It's also different (500464) to the fence that fits both the TS55 and TSC55(491467)

 

[ifit]

If you were cutting the doors in one go I am sure the machine struggled some. Did you cut in one pass or several?

1 pass

 

[ifit]

Ive use mine on my ts rails - didn't notice any recut of the splinter edge and it cuts to where i set the rail, I don't know if its exact but must be close and is plenty close enough for site work

 

[pingvinlakrits]

Ifit: thank you for that. Good to know.

 

[Holmz]

2nd day in and i was ripping some lengths of mdf with a 45 on my rail, stopped and went to lift the saw out as i would my ts55
I forgot the blade does not retract and I've taken a half circle out of my rail [crying]
Other than that the saw is good

I have found it easier to drop a standard rail on for cross cutting than use the special rail

It is also possible to do that on plunge if the saw is not indexed on the rail.

 

[benwheeler]

Got a brief hands-on with this bad boy on the weekend. If I was still doing much carpentry, I'd be champing at the bit for it to come out! I'd be surprised if any carpenter/builder/renovater couldn't find a use for it. I don't think the promo vids really show its full capability - even without the rails, it has a number of great improvements over a normal circ saw. Weight is not one of them though..  With the guide rails, the thing would be indispensable for any work such as cutting in a roof. You could do without a drop saw if you had to.

We were told September release for Australia.

P.S. not sure if it's been mentioned, but the thin kerf size is apparently so they could keep the weight down by needing less power and therefore have one battery rather than two.

 

[Tot]

Some video available:


russian, 4.20 start sawing (35mm dry pine).

Verdict is good saw for cutting (left side of the cut is without chips, and about right side we dont care).
If you need a super good cut quality at both sides it can be use as "Mafell 55 cc style": first crop of ~2 mm (with some materials at reverse direction) and after it cut at full size (50mm).


poland, just closer look.

I think this saw is better, than mafell kss 300/400 (if hkc's accs works for about 5-6+ years or you have C15(18)/BHC).

About kss 80 ec:
same price, mafell cuts better, due to old school engine with variable speed and missing fast stop (*3 times longer stop, than fe), but 8+ kg saw is bad + no systainer.

So at 2015:
mafell jig (p1 cc) >> FE carvex. mafell mt 55 cc > FE tsr 55. FE hkc > mafell 300/400. FE tsc 55 > mafell cordless. Mafell 80+ saws > all, coz fe has nothing (19** year last model hello).

 

[PreferrablyWood]

Just ordered the HKC plus kit with the 2 batteries the 420 track the 250 track, and the crosscut blade. I have the TS 75 for thicker stock and hardwoods, but it's bulky and heavy for small dimension crosscuts. so I got on board with the HKC. I don't absolutely need the cordless functionality but it can come in handy. As for dust collection I'll just hook it up to my CT midi when working inside, outside work who cares about a little dust.. I'm stoked!