Hole saws- which one is the best

[Michael Kellough]

Rockler has an auxiliary arbor that is longer so you can reverse the smaller hole saw so the teeth don’t catch on the existing hole.  It is also 1/2”-20 thread.

Does anyone make an aux. arbor that has the 5/8” thread for enlarging larger holes?

 

[Cheese]

Rockler has an auxiliary arbor that is longer so you can reverse the smaller hole saw so the teeth don’t catch on the existing hole.  It is also 1/2”-20 thread.

Does anyone make an aux. arbor that has the 5/8” thread for enlarging larger holes?

Rockler offers this as an accessory.
https://www.rockler.com/adapter-nut-for-shark-tooth-hole-saw-arbor-5-8-18-to-1-2-20

 

[TinyShop]

I'm surprised no one has suggested an adjustable circle cutter:

https://www.starminfo.com/en/product/jizai/36t.html

Assuming there's no need to work in a tight space, seems a circle cutter offers all kinds of versatility. Plus, there's the option of HSS, carbide or even diamond.

Star-M even makes a range of tool-free versions:


What do folks think of a single circle cutter in place of an entire set of holesaws?

 

[semenza]

I'm surprised no one has suggested an adjustable circle cutter:

Assuming there's no need to work in a tight space, seems a circle cutter offers all kinds of versatility. Plus, there's the option of HSS, carbide or even diamond.

Star-M even makes a range of tool-free versions:

What do folks think of a single circle cutter in place of an entire set of holesaws?

I never used one but they always look like they would be hard to control. Maybe not?

I think the biggest drawback would be the size. And swing radius. I have already used several of the hole saws I just got near walls and cabinets where that would never have room.

  Can those be used without the center bit (on a drill press)?  If not then they would not work for making round disks without a center hole.

  I also can't imagine the cutter working well on a 90 degree angle head. Might work but seems awkward and maybe even risky to a hand in the wrong place.

The pro of course is that it is one cutter that can make any size in the range.

        In my case if I had a circle cutter I would still end up with a set of hole saws. But I think it depends on the users intended cutting purpose.

Seth

 

[aloysius]

I honestly don't think there's a "best hole-saw".  Just the best for the job.  Working at a remote location (250 KM from base) I had a series of downlights to install in Hardieflex.  A colleague's holesaw enthusiastically cut exactly 3 holes before it stopped cutting. I then (carefully) managed 7 before mine was too blunt to use.  Both were new & expensive bimetallics:  Sutton & Sandvik from memory.

If we'd been using Carbide gritted saws instead, the saw would've laughed at the task (20 odd lights) & shown virtually no wear at all.  Unfortunately, we weren't aware that we would be drilling fibre cement, & had no access to the "right" material saws.

Yet I've cut 3" holes with the same well-lubed Sandvik bimetallics in structural steel girders!  Slow & steady works well here.

TCT saws seem to work well in synthetic board, yet tend to burn their way through natural hardwood.  A simple auger (

 

[Cheese]

Here's an interesting quick change system for swapping out different sized hole saws if that's what you're up against.

A Starrett A-6 quick change chuck that's available in hex or SDS drive.
From Starrett:
Fast, tool-free changes between different sizes and types of Hole Saws and Pilot Drills. Provides a simple method for core ejection and hole enlargement. A6 Kwik Change Chuck for use with Hole Saws up to 6"/152mm diameter.

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A quick change adapter that's available in 1/2-20 or 5/8-18 to fit all hole saw diameters from 14 to 152 mm.

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Just attach the adapter to the required hole saws and with the push of a button you can swap out the holes saws instantly.

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