Home made MFT table with extras

Jharry said:
I admit, didn't read your original post all the way through before posting.  Sorry! So after reading it all now, I think what I'm planning is exactly what you have, especially with the 1400 guide. Any suggestions on the part list would be greatly appreciated!

Yes mine is made from a 1400mm saw track and works perfect.
 
Thanks Steve. Could you tell me what parts of the MFT you got to use with the 1400? I read the part about the 2m rails. Cheers!
 
Jharry said:
Thanks Steve. Could you tell me what parts of the MFT you got to use with the 1400? I read the part about the 2m rails. Cheers!
.

I HOPE YOU SITTING DOWN!!!  ......to buy the MFT3 Table setup with all the bells and whistles in the States is $625...man here in Australia it's $1,175 twice the price for the same item, so they sting us here and don't let me hear you guys from the States moan about Festool prices, those prices are double here.

This is why I made my own MFT and all up it still cost me $720 in parts and I already had the MITRE GUAGE and a spare 1400 rail, but for me I have a top that is 1200 x 900 and it stands 950High as I am tall. My table also comes on wheels and is very sturdy, so custom made was what I was after. For me it was customised at whatever the cost. But for you man I would just go and buy one and throw the legs away its probably cheaper than to build one.

The parts from EKAT USA  if you still want are as follows:

437377 - Feather Key ( need 2 ) Item #4 - @ $2.90 each ( this is the support stop inside the profile rail for alignment )
497022 - Support Unit Item ( Need only 1 ) #77 - @ $36.15 (this receives the rail as it swings down to level position )
497023 - Support Unit. Item ( Need only 1 ) #84 - @ $58.63 (this swings the saw rail off the profile rail )
474036 - Holding Plate Item ( suggest 2 ) #74 - @ $ 3.34 each ( I add extra's in the Supports as they grab the profile rail better the support currently has only one but you can easily replace the bolt and use this )
495541 - Additional Clamp  ( Need 1 ) #85 @ $ 62 AUD( this holds the stop profile rail at the side to prevent the rail moving back it locks in the side rail)
475217 - Stop Rail ( Need 1 ) #60 @ $28.07 ( This rail is what you fix to the mitre to act as the fence )
495542- Adjustable stop ( Need 1 or more ) #86 ( this is the length slip stop that fits on the Stop rail for repeat length cutting )

488451 - Complete Mitre Guage ( Need 1 ) this  is for the CS70 table saw but it is exactly the same as the MFT version and can be purchased as a unit $199 AUD
496824 - Table Profile Rails - ( 2 x 2m lengths ) this is the MFT railing and is $331 AUD

Plus a 1400mm saw rail.

The prices i showed are from internet sourcing and you may get the AUD price items for a lot less expensive but i couldn't find their prices in the states.

But that all said I am about to make a second table to match the one I made so I can join them to make better work spaces but I only have to add the side profiles
as I already have the other gear now. I did buy some joiner bars to lock them together that for the side rails.

I hope that all helps.

Cheers

From the Land Down Under
 
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch! Probably won't spring for a miter gauge, to begin with at least. I've seen a lot of vids showing how the dog holes can make the table quite functional without the gauge. How often do you use yours?
 
Here is another extra...

05G4801s04.jpg

05G4801s03.jpg


Lee Valley has this 1/2" X 20 mm bushing for $6.50. Could be very handy.
 
Wow , Just what I was looking for a Ho'made MTF  , I also need a larger table  BUt I think I'm gonna make mine jus as a table top  & then do  a set of  sturdy legs & frame  that I can swap out table tops  for a  cutting top , a MTF top ,  a plain  assembly & glue up top , then a thin paint up top .
If you don't mind me shooting questions your way  , that list of parts you posted above Really helps me in planning out what I need

A Big ThanX

Mike
 
I plan to make my table with a torsion box type design and top it with a larger MFT top (so I can swap MFT top when needed without it being integral to the torsion box). This will create a total top thickness of 1.5" (1/2" ply+3/4" MDF). Anyone have thoughts on the dog hole depths? I've heard anything thicker than 3/4" won't work with the Festool clamps. Is that true and why? Thanks
 
Jharry said:
I plan to make my table with a torsion box type design and top it with a larger MFT top (so I can swap MFT top when needed without it being integral to the torsion box). This will create a total top thickness of 1.5" (1/2" ply+3/4" MDF). Anyone have thoughts on the dog hole depths? I've heard anything thicker than 3/4" won't work with the Festool clamps. Is that true and why? Thanks

The trouble is the Festool clamps can't hook down in the hole as the extra thickness prevents the 90° from scooping down, but it has no problem with the 19mm board
 
Jharry said:
I plan to make my table with a torsion box type design and top it with a larger MFT top (so I can swap MFT top when needed without it being integral to the torsion box). This will create a total top thickness of 1.5" (1/2" ply+3/4" MDF). Anyone have thoughts on the dog hole depths? I've heard anything thicker than 3/4" won't work with the Festool clamps. Is that true and why? Thanks
 
Jharry said:
I plan to make my table with a torsion box type design and top it with a larger MFT top (so I can swap MFT top when needed without it being integral to the torsion box). This will create a total top thickness of 1.5" (1/2" ply+3/4" MDF). Anyone have thoughts on the dog hole depths? I've heard anything thicker than 3/4" won't work with the Festool clamps. Is that true and why? Thanks

That's a good idea to have different tops that can retro fit, therefore you should create a metal thread insert into the legs and use that to screw in different tops, for assembly or so I use some 6mm rubber sheeting cut to size that way things done fall through the holes and protects what ever I am working on. RUBBER is a nice surface to work on I just bought a new piece that's 10 mm thick that was designed to go into ute trays.
 
Good idea on the rubber mat. I was planning to use some sort of threaded inserts as you said. I'm not sure how they work on the MFT, but I was thinking of having threaded inserts in both the table and MDF top. Maybe I just need one in the top and put a simple through hole in the MDF. Do you know about the thickness "issue"?  Not even sure if ill get any Festool clamps to begin with. Was looking more at kreg or bessey auto clamps. Veritas has a nice dog and clamp accessory pack in a cool systainer that I'm looking at:veritas clamping kit
 
Jharry said:
Good idea on the rubber mat. I was planning to use some sort of threaded inserts as you said. I'm not sure how they work on the MFT, but I was thinking of having threaded inserts in both the table and MDF top. Maybe I just need one in the top and put a simple through hole in the MDF. Do you know about the thickness "issue"?  Not even sure if ill get any Festool clamps to begin with. Was looking more at kreg or bessey auto clamps. Veritas has a nice dog and clamp accessory pack in a cool systainer that I'm looking at:veritas clamping kit

Cool Kit...

Jharry said:
Good idea on the rubber mat. I was planning to use some sort of threaded inserts as you said. I'm not sure how they work on the MFT, but I was thinking of having threaded inserts in both the table and MDF top. Maybe I just need one in the top and put a simple through hole in the MDF. Do you know about the thickness "issue"?  Not even sure if ill get any Festool clamps to begin with. Was looking more at kreg or bessey auto clamps. Veritas has a nice dog and clamp accessory pack in a cool systainer that I'm looking at:veritas clamping kit

I have about 10 Festool clamps and I always use them in the MFT I also have the Bessey Auto Clamps are they too are very good, Check out the guys at
Seneca Woodworking they have these great Clamp Dog plates for the Bessey:

http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/clamp-block

They would work fine, the only issue about having the board deeper is that the Festool Clamps can't scoop in the hole, and for me the 3/4" top is perfect
as I use the clamps both from top and underneath for different clamping issue.

As for the top just put the thread sleeve in the bench and holes in the top, I am going to use your idea myself and re do my top which ...mate is only screwed down with wood screws, nothing too rocket science about it. So I am going to take it off and add thread sleeve in the bench screw holes and....
way to go a jharry endorsed improvement.

Also here is a real cheap way to make some doggy things, I bought some aluminium drawer handles for $3 at the DIY store and guess what they are 20mm diam and fit perfect in the Festool holes and they have a female thread so you can fit of all sorts of things, I use a thin piece of wood to join 2 together to span 2 holes for instance if I want a bench stop say for planing 1/2" stock I just make the joiner plate in 10mm. Anyways here is a picture and also the other dog I had made from a mate who has a metal lathe who made a bunch in steel for me, damn stronger than aluminium and you can use them as yacht anchors too...lol
 

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Michael Kellough said:
Here is another extra...
--------8X--------------------X8-----------
Lee Valley has this 1/2" X 20 mm bushing for $6.50.[/url] Could be very handy.

I love this - much neater than my block with a 20mm dowel idea. Need to find a UK stockist of an appropriate bush now.
 
Jharry said:
Also here is a real cheap way to make some doggy things, I bought some aluminium drawer handles for $3 at the DIY store and guess what they are 20mm diam and fit perfect in the Festool holes and they have a female thread so you can fit of all sorts of things, I use a thin piece of wood to join 2 together to span 2 holes for instance if I want a bench stop say for planing 1/2" stock I just make the joiner plate in 10mm. Anyways here is a picture and also the other dog I had made from a mate who has a metal lathe who made a bunch in steel for me, darn stronger than aluminium and you can use them as yacht anchors too...lol

I'm curious about these door handles and wanted to know if you can share the link of the site or place you bought them from. I Googled these knobs and my search shows them for $8. If I can grab them for $3 a piece, it would be nice.... [big grin]
 
I'm curious about these door handles and wanted to know if you can share the link of the site or place you bought them from. I Googled these knobs and my search shows them for $8. If I can grab them for $3 a piece, it would be nice.... [big grin]
[/quote]

If you do a Google search for "Aluminum 20 mm Whistle Knob" you will get numerous hits, however most are confusing as they state diameter as 20mm , 3/4", 7/8" in same description - how to know if you are getting 20mm before ordering? Pricing is anywhere from $1.80 to +$4.00. All are the same brand - Liberty Hardware MFG #PN2814C-AL-C
 
squarecut said:
I'm curious about these door handles and wanted to know if you can share the link of the site or place you bought them from. I Googled these knobs and my search shows them for $8. If I can grab them for $3 a piece, it would be nice.... [big grin]

If you do a Google search for "Aluminum 20 mm Whistle Knob" you will get numerous hits, however most are confusing as they state diameter as 20mm , 3/4", 7/8" in same description - how to know if you are getting 20mm before ordering? Pricing is anywhere from $1.80 to +$4.00. All are the same brand - Liberty Hardware MFG #PN2814C-AL-C
[/quote]

Thank you. I found for $1.79
 
The photos appear to have been lost in a forum change-over or deleted by the uploader.
 
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