Horizontal Hardwood Fence Questions

topcat

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Nov 29, 2014
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I'm about to dive into putting up a horizontal wood fence in my front yard. I'm thinking of using Batu (Red Balau). There are a few issues I'm struggling with. 1) It's relatively expensive so keeping waste down is a priority. 2) you can specify that all the boards come in a certain length that you desire. 3) This isn't a problem but I think it's worth mentioning that I'm not completely opposed to using a B Grade Redwood product but am worried that if I'm to achieve a similar look to the hardwood that yearly staining might not look as good overtime as the annual oiling of the hardwood.

With that said I'm wanting some advice from others that might have done a similar project.

Here are a few pictures of what I'd like the fence to look like.

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Im wondering if it's possible to joint the boards together end to end to cover the lengths I need and minimize waste. I have a domino jointer but have no idea how the stock dominos work in an outdoor setting. If it is possible to join them together with the Domino should I also cut some kind of joint to help it stay intact structurally? I plan to put posts up every 4-5 feet to allow adequate support for the horizontal boards.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
 
The only thing real experience I can offer is using Sipo Domino tenons outdoors with tropical wood and Cedar . They work really well for me, and I also use Titebond 3 glue as well.
How thick are the boards going to be that you're thinking of using?  That will determine what Tenon thickness you can use to join them with.
If a board decided to warp on you, I doubt the joined end of two boards via a Domino tenon are going to slow it down unless that joint was screwed into one of your posts. If it's hanging out in the breeze, it will go where it wants to... [embarassed]
I've had some Purpleheart get unruly on me after ripping it, but it was going to be screwed down every 12" or so, so in that case, it didn't matter.
 
Finger joint end to end, weather resistant glue.
Could be a bit labour intensive though.
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You can get relatively inexpensive bits for this.
 
I built a horizontal fence out of Massaranduba two years ago.  Here are some of my thoughts based on this hardwood not Red Balau.

1. Use stainless steel screws.  Massaranduba is dense wood which required predrilling and countersinking of the hole. I broke a number of drill bits by not pulling the bit out to clear the cut wood.  The wood is so dense the wood being cleared would wrap around the bit.  I made a jig to make sure all the holes were on the same vertical plane/ lined up.  I also used 1/4 plywood as spacer between each row.

2. Your eye will easily pick up a wavy horizontal fence. The longer the board the higher probability of it not coming from lumber mill straight or warping or bowing over time.  5 to 6 feet spacing between post will help alleviate this problem.  You will also want the fence to be flat.  Inspect the board before installing.  The more custom lengths you purchase the more product you may need to order to get straight wood.

3. If your land is very sloped there will be to many stair steps for long runs.  As in your second picture.

4. Take in consideration the amount of time it will take to set your post.  If its going to take a couple of weekends to set your post you may want to order the post and fence wood at separate times.  Unless you have good place to store the wood.

5. Seal all end grain.  All end grain should could come sealed from the lumber yard/ importer.  It will look like a waxy coating.  My lumber yard provided 12 oz jar of the sealer with my purchase.  No discount on the lumber.

I am not sure about the grade difference in Red Balau.  I would ask the lumber yard on the quality difference.  The less problems you have with the wood the easier and faster your project will go.

Storm
 
ATXStorm said:
I built a horizontal fence out of Massaranduba two years ago.  Here are some of my thoughts based on this hardwood not Red Balau.

1. Use stainless steel screws.  Massaranduba is dense wood which required predrilling and countersinking of the hole. I broke a number of drill bits by not pulling the bit out to clear the cut wood.  The wood is so dense the wood being cleared would wrap around the bit.  I made a jig to make sure all the holes were on the same vertical plane/ lined up.  I also used 1/4 plywood as spacer between each row.

2. Your eye will easily pick up a wavy horizontal fence. The longer the board the higher probability of it not coming from lumber mill straight or warping or bowing over time.  5 to 6 feet spacing between post will help alleviate this problem.  You will also want the fence to be flat.  Inspect the board before installing.  The more custom lengths you purchase the more product you may need to order to get straight wood.

3. If your land is very sloped there will be to many stair steps for long runs.  As in your second picture.

4. Take in consideration the amount of time it will take to set your post.  If its going to take a couple of weekends to set your post you may want to order the post and fence wood at separate times.  Unless you have good place to store the wood.

5. Seal all end grain.  All end grain should could come sealed from the lumber yard/ importer.  It will look like a waxy coating.  My lumber yard provided 12 oz jar of the sealer with my purchase.  No discount on the lumber.

I am not sure about the grade difference in Red Balau.  I would ask the lumber yard on the quality difference.  The less problems you have with the wood the easier and faster your project will go.

Storm
  All I can say is... [thanks] [thumbs up] [thumbs up]  Really good post from someone who's been through the job.
 
I will add one more thing. If it's  just a  smallish fence you will save yourself so much time in the end if you hand choose each and every piece of the lumber yourself, they will still deliver it.

If they are a place that has rules  that you can only buy off the stack go somewhere else.
 
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