Horse Tack Cabinet

denrusso

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Oct 21, 2013
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I'm planning on building a few horse tack cabinets.  Each cabinet will be 6' tall, 3' wide, and 2.5' deep.  I plan on splitting this into two cabinets - top and bottom.  The bottom will be 2' tall and will consist of two 1' tall drawers.  Picture one 2' tall drawer face that use to open the bottom drawer and also reveal the second drawer that can be pulled out as well (sort of like a freezer).  The top section will be a double door that will be 4' tall.  The top section will hold 1-2 customer saddles and the saddle rack will be fastened to the back of the cabinet.  I plan on using 3/4" play for the box - do you think I should use this for the back as well since it will be holding weight?

This will be, by far, the largest cabinet that I have built.  Anything to be aware of?

These cabinets will be placed in a tack storage room, side by side, and utilized by our boarders (6 per side for a total of 12).  Boarders come and go so I was thinking of utilizing the domino connector system.  I was thinking this more for when I need to replace a component of the cabinet as it takes on some wear and tear.

Would appreciate any input you have on a build such as this.

Thanks!
dr
 
[member=24722]denrusso[/member] - your post and quation tells me that this is a commercial application - not to be confused with kitchen cabinets or even wooshop cabinets.

I suspect that your exposure to the public will soon have others asking if you can build them cabinets for that special purpose so it worth your while to get some input from around this forum. A classy cabainet will tell boarders that your operation is a cut above - good for your reputation and your business.

Your mention of DOMINO Connectors tells me that you're well aware that these cabinets are likely to see some fairly hard use. Although I grew up on a farm, I did not live on our farm long enough to have joined my father on horseback rounds in the fields. I have been on horseback twice as an adult and once dismounted intentionally  [wink]

Your application has me thinking that you may want to consider solid edging  rather than exposed plywood. Since teh backpanel will apparently see some loads from saddles which will likely not be gently placed, you may think of the back as a structural eelement and not merely a dustcover providing a bit of latereal stability.

Considering that you plan a dozen of these, I look forward to seeing some plans.

Hans
 
TSO_Products said:
[member=24722]denrusso[/member] - your post and quation tells me that this is a commercial application - not to be confused with kitchen cabinets or even wooshop cabinets.

I suspect that your exposure to the public will soon have others asking if you can build them cabinets for that special purpose so it worth your while to get some input from around this forum. A classy cabainet will tell boarders that your operation is a cut above - good for your reputation and your business.

Your mention of DOMINO Connectors tells me that you're well aware that these cabinets are likely to see some fairly hard use. Although I grew up on a farm, I did not live on our farm long enough to have joined my father on horseback rounds in the fields. I have been on horseback twice as an adult and once dismounted intentionally  [wink]

Your application has me thinking that you may want to consider solid edging  rather than exposed plywood. Since teh backpanel will apparently see some loads from saddles which will likely not be gently placed, you may think of the back as a structural eelement and not merely a dustcover providing a bit of latereal stability.

Considering that you plan a dozen of these, I look forward to seeing some plans.

Hans

Hans,
Thanks very much for the reply and encouragement.  Next time you're on Long Island, give me a lookup (DDR Farm) and we will get you on a good horse for a nice trail ride through our 900 acres of trails.

I will definitely be applying some edging to the exposed plywood.  I very much would like to utilize the conturo for this but, sadly, it is a bit out of reach at the moment.  I have some fastedging from fastcap that I intend on using.  My concern is the thickness of the fastedge compared to what can be applied with the conturo.

Will be sure to share my progress!

Thanks!
dr
 
If it were me I would use pre-finished 3/4" ply for pretty much everything. Less work just having to put an edge on, then finishing that. These will get trashed over time. Fortunately barn stuff isn't looked at closely. I would recommend offering some type of padlock hardware to offer security whether you feel you need it or not, someone might be happier to feel their tack is secure. Plus they can put wallets, purses, etc inside.

With the high cost of custom saddles, a nice rounded saddle rack is in order. Some vent holes that hands can't through to allow drying of the gear would be important. Especially that sweaty blanket after a hard ride.
 
Peter_C said:
If it were me I would use pre-finished 3/4" ply for pretty much everything. Less work just having to put an edge on, then finishing that. These will get trashed over time. Fortunately barn stuff isn't looked at closely. I would recommend offering some type of padlock hardware to offer security whether you feel you need it or not, someone might be happier to feel their tack is secure. Plus they can put wallets, purses, etc inside.

With the high cost of custom saddles, a nice rounded saddle rack is in order. Some vent holes that hands can't through to allow drying of the gear would be important. Especially that sweaty blanket after a hard ride.

Both good points - security and ventilation will definitely need to be included.

Thanks!
dr
 
Thought about it for a few more seconds and realized ventilation is not so simple. The holes near the saddle blanket need to be well ventilated but you may not want holes everywhere, prying eyes and all. If there is lots of shelving for shampoos, brushes etc, you won't need as much ventilation in those sections. Cordoning off the blanket/saddle area from the rest of the stuff would allow lots of holes. Rodents being one of a barns most prolific creatures, means you are going to want to have a really good seal to attempt to keep them from chewing on salty leather. You could cut holes and put screening in, or drill them and put screening in. Countersunk with a piece of wood retaining the screening. My first thought is longer thin slits that even a small person couldn't penetrate, but a small rodent can fit through a dime hole so screening will be needed.

For tack a 6" square of a 2x6" (Or 4" of a 2x4"), cut it as a half round, then screw a 1/2 rounded 3/4" board slightly larger over the front (Rounded over) to keep nice leather bridles and halters in a relaxed position. The options are endless...

Had four horses in my lifetime. Enjoy riding, but haven't been on a horse in too long a long time. Where the heck do you tie the cow off to on those English saddles? ;)

Please post some finished photos, and include the barn :)
 
With the cabinets being 30 inches deep (762mm), is there an effective way to rip the plywood to this dimension?  I have the parallel guides but they stop at 650mm.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
dr
 
I can hardly visialize your cabinets, depending of your design you may also consider on the small cabinets, sliding doors to reduce the cost on hardware.
 
denrusso said:
With the cabinets being 30 inches deep (762mm), is there an effective way to rip the plywood to this dimension?  I have the parallel guides but they stop at 650mm.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
dr
Measure twice, cut once?

Nothing wrong with marking the plywood, laying your track to the marks and cutting them up. Guess that is a win for the Woodpeckers parallel guides as they go to 52".

Edit, as it is a production type run you can just use your parallel guides and make longer extensions of some sorts of of scrap wood.

Other than building shelves you are going to have a lot of scrap wood for other projects. Shelves everywhere? LOL
 
I use Senecas with 52" Incra guides, I have a second set with 28" guides for shorter applications.
 
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