How do I use the Angle thingy.... (FS-KS)

[Toller]

I need to make a 45* cut on my shopbuilt MFT.  I can just cut to the lines I have drawn, but I have the angle unit, have never used it, and seemed like a chance to try it.

I had it set up like the illustrations, but that doesn't do anything useful.  It leaves whole unit above the level of the wood, so it doesn't contact the wood.

What am I doing wrong? (It must work better this)

 

[peter halle]

There is a lip on the bottom part of the FS-KS that butts up to the edge of your wood.  Watch the first 80 seconds of this video and you will get a better idea.

TS-55

Peter

 

[gompy58]

It's easy to use, but...perhaps smart to not use it.... This thing is just not preciese enough..

 

[Texastutt]

I have to agree, the "Angle Thingy" is not one of their better tools.

Use a square or like to layout your cut and clamp the fence, may take longer but it's more accurate. 

 

[btracey1]

Toller,
You use it just like in the video that Peter posted. As far as the accuracy goes.....you have to calibrate it first and then its spot on. Just loosen the two screws located in the black plastic cover (near the locking knob) and place it on a flat surface with and accurate square aligned  against it and tighten the two screws. Your done, and its accurate from then until you drop it.
Brian

 

[Toller]

There is a lip on the bottom part of the FS-KS that butts up to the edge of your wood.  Watch the first 80 seconds of this video and you will get a better idea.
Peter

I feel so stupid.  After watching the video it is so simple.  What on earth could I have been doing last night?

After finding it was about a half degree out of square I made two cuts.  One was perfect, the other a tenth of a degree off.
I am not sure it can do any better than that; which is fine for my current needs, but might not be for more critical uses.
I guess that means it can not be used for more critical uses?

 

[Sparktrician]

I have to agree, the "Angle Thingy" is not one of their better tools.

Use a square or like to layout your cut and clamp the fence, may take longer but it's more accurate. 

Concur!!!  The accuracy of cut is largely dependent on the viewing angle of the scale on the FS-KS, which is rather crude, especially for a Festool product.  It's a handy device for some applications, but when the accuracy of a finish cut is critical, it's NOT the tool of choice. 

[sad]

 

[Tinker]

One of the problems which you may have discovered is the darned thing does NOT want to hold its angle unless you are extremely careful in handling & moving. 

What i have done with mine after several experiments, over a long period of time, was to take it apart and insert a couple of 5/16th flat washers inside and reassemble.  You can then tighten the knob enough so the angle will remain fairly stable.  By "fairly stable", i mean you need to really tighten the knob.  If you are half hearted in tightening, the angle will move if you breath on it.  The tighter the better.

After use, you need to loosen the knob or you will soon find movement with followup uses. Sort of same idea as with bandsaw blades after use >>> you loosen the tension.  If not, your blade gets kinked or lose.  I did not look at Peter's video, but he has experimented with pieces of strip that was cut from the material that goes under your guidebar. 

I had planned on doing a report on this problem, but have not been in my shop since way last spring. I just finished my last lawn job this morning with snow coming down.  By weekend, i will have my head back into WW'ing again.
Tinker

 

[ccarrolladams]

The same day I purchased my first TS55, back in January 2006, I also bought the Guide Rail Accessory Kit (cat# 492 396) which includes the Angle Unit FS-KS. Before I left my dealer, Eagle Tools of Los Angeles, we carefully checked the accuracy. As it came from the factory it was just fine.

For several years I used only the FS-KS when making miter cuts, transferring the angle setting from the working drawings. Before making the cut I always clamped the guide rail.

I did not feel the need for a MFT until the MFT/3 came along. I bought that complete with the standard accessories as set 495 462, which includes a different angle unit, the Protractor Head. I must say this Protractor Head is far more robust that the FS-KS. Although I still own my FS-KS, since buying the MFT/3 with the Protractor Head it has become my go-to miter unit for sheet goods.

Almost 2 years ago, when I started doing research into large machines for a permanent shop, I was fascinated by the protractor set-up on Felder sliding table saws. These do not depend on a relatively small circular protractor. Long before I even started looking for a shop building I bought one of the Felder miter set-ups, which I use on a very large work table along with a Festool 2700 guide rail. That system not only hold a set angle as long as needed, it will reproduce a desired angle time-after-time as close as any of the angle measuring instruments I own can display.

Now I have my large shop, with a big sliding table saw and a pressure beam saw. Yes, many people do use slider saws to make miter parts for cabinet cases. We expected to do that, but what we have found it that we can make the relatively few miter cuts on plywood parts as fast on the work tables using either the Festool Protractor Head or the Felder Protractor System, leaving the slider saw to make the solid lumber parts for face frames.

I do not believe there is anything wrong with the FS-KS. Until a person owns a full-blown MFT/3 you can make a lot of money using the FS-KS. Like everything else in woodworking you just need experience and you need to be careful to double check before making the cut. Taking a few extra seconds to clamp your guide rail ensure better and more accurate results. Of course that is my opinion.

 

[Toller]

I did not feel the need for a MFT until the MFT/3 came along. I bought that complete with the standard accessories as set 495 462, which includes a different angle unit, the Protractor Head. I must say this Protractor Head is far more robust that the FS-KS. Although I still own my FS-KS, since buying the MFT/3 with the Protractor Head it has become my go-to miter unit for sheet goods.

I have the protractor head for my shopbuilt MFT.  Unfortunately I only have two holes in my table, so the head can only go in one place (fine for 90* cuts), and that wouldn't allow a 45* cut.  I guess I have something to work on.

 

[tbellemare]

I have stayed out of this discussion about the FS-KS, Angle Unit, for a long time - years, in fact...

I'm not sure what users of this tool expect it to do?

How long are the guide rails that users are using with this tool?

If I clamped it to something that was 800mm or so, I would expect quite good results.

Tom

 

[Tinker]

Tom,
for me, the question is NOT the accuracy of the FS-KS.  I have found that to be as accurate as any of the protractor devices I have in my shop.  I have an architects protractor device i use to check every setup, no matter how I arrive at that setup.  The FS-KS is usually dead on, or as close as my eye can make it work. 

Where I have the problem, as with many others who have joined in the discussion, is that the angle seems to be far too delicate for repeat setups.  I, and many others it would seem, have set the darned thing up and made, maybe one cut with accuracy.  When we move the tool, as it is attached to the guide bar, (or disconnect and reattach) for followup cuts, the slightest wrong move will move the angle.  I have continued to use the FS-KS for my work this past spring, after many attempts to improve the efficiency/repeatability of the tool.  I think I have finally worked out the problem so I feel somewhat comfortable with making repeat cuts.  So far, I have only attempted making repeat cuts on small projects where I am using scrap wood to begin with.  If there is a screw-up, nothing lost except my time.

Within another week, I am hoping to get back into the shop.  I have a couple of projects where I am going to try using the FS-KS for some repeatable cuts where I will be more concerned about the repeatability.  I hope to have more to say on this topic, especially if I have success.  Tom, I would like to know how you use the tool and feel comfortable with its repeatability.  I am sure others would also like to know.  for many, the tool has been used mainly as a dust catcher.  Mine sat in drawer for maybe 3 years after several attempts to get it to hold the angle.  Finally, last spring I decided to get a little more serious in try to get it to work.
Tinker

 

[peter halle]

Tinker,

Don't forget to try what I sent you.

Peter

 

[Tinker]

Peter,
10-4
Tinker