How do you keep your splinter strips on your rails?????

PeterK

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Jan 23, 2007
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So - is there a recommended method to glue these strips onto the rails?
About a month ago I replaced a worn black strip with a new clear one. Was very good about removing all the old adhesive and having clean raw aluminum to attach the new strip to. Went out to the shop today and the new strip is hanging off the rail. Really ticks me off. This is a climate controlled shop so heat was not a factor. These strips aren't cheap and Festool has known for years now that they have a problem with them. Hard to believe that Festool hasn't resolved this adhesive issue. Anyone had good luck reattaching the strips in some way or are you forced to start over with a new one?

Did I mention this ticks me off?  [huh]
 
My brother works at a company that is also a mak retailer, so I replaced all my clear splinter strips with the
Mak ones. Them clear ones didn't last long. I wouldn't want to put glue on the rails because of the next time replacing the strips and having to get the glue off. That said if I were to would rubber cement do the trick?
I also put the new strips on with a lot of pressure from a laminate J roller
 
try some 3M VHB tape. Might be hard to remove when replacing a worn out splinter guard.
 
some guys use Crazy glue , but me Nah no way , yeah it will work the 1st time but then what ?
those rail don't come cheap  [eek]
 
Slappy said:
some guys use Crazy glue , but me Nah no way , yeah it will work the 1st time but then what ?
those rail don't come cheap [eek]

Tell me about it.....I just ordered the LR32 95" rail yesterday  [scared]

I thought about the purchase for maybe 10 minutes......took it out of my "shopping cart" .....added it again.....thought about it another 5 minutes...

then, just said the heck with it and went thru with the order.   Sad thing is, I don't have a use for it for maybe another couple months.   [huh]

Eric

 
I have used 3M Double Stick Tape
I get it at local CVS Store
It works great and when I have to replace a strip it isn't bad to separate and clean for the next one
 
Quite frankly, I liked the black strips far better than the clear.

It was allot easier to place on the cut line with a definative "edge", where as the opaque edge of the clear strip doesn't allow for a precise,

well defined "line".
 
What problem with adhesive? I haven't had a problem. The clear strips seem to stick well and I've even remounted one a second time without a problem.
 
The 2 sided tape that comes in the windows insulator kits. Same tape I use to hold the labels on the classic Systainers.

Tom
 
Ditto!

barnowl said:
Quite frankly, I liked the black strips far better than the clear.

It was allot easier to place on the cut line with a definative "edge", where as the opaque edge of the clear strip doesn't allow for a precise,

well defined "line".
 
I have a mix of new clear strips and the older black ones. I prefer the black for the definite edge; the clear aren't clear enough to see through to a "keep the line" line.

As someone mentioned, I used double-stick turner's tape. I can't find the roll I have online to give a link, but worked well for me... don't skip burnishing it in! fingers, j-roller, beer bottle, whatever works or it will release.

My original strip came off pretty easily with a pull (a black strip) but left a bit of the original adhesive on the rail. Quick pass with a heat gun and scraper and it was all gone.

My splinter guard strip was 4-5 years old and perfect until one day when I quickly cross cut something with it forgetting I had a different blade in the TS-75 (they are different widths).
 
I spoke to a service guy about this awhile back.  He said they are made to be adjustable.  You burnish them in, and then after they wear to a certain point you can move them outward and recut them.

I admit it's a pain to readjust them when they come off like that though.

He also said they are supposed to be just shy of the rail on each end.  I don't remember why.  Maybe to keep them from getting bumped off if you hit the corner of the rail.
 
3 Things changed when festool changed from black to white splinter strip

All 3 of them are a crap change and they are the cause of the strip coming off

1. poor adhesive

2. Slight rebate on the white strip stops compression off adhesive to create a better bond

3. The white is more plastic than rubber. The black one was more rubbery.

I hate the white I can't believe festool changed it to something so crap.  

I buy the Makita strip which is still black.

Jmb

 
Good to know about the makita strips.

I liked the black "rubberlike" Festool strips.

I don't like the clear "plastic" ones that they offer now.

 
I had the very same problem about 12 months ago.............now resolved.

Before applying a new strip I completely clean the edge with thinners and simply apply new strip with  no problem of lifting  after with the exception of the ends which I now cut at an angle and this seems to minimalise lift caused mainly from putting the track on its end.

I re apply the strip 3 or 4 times for multiple use and if the adhesive does not take I simply use the 3m double sided.
 
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