How parallel is parallel
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Corwin,
My condolences to you as well. Life seems to have a habit of throwing curve balls sometimes. . .
When you're ready to go into more detail, I'd love to hear more about the incorporation of the Incra track into the setup, but no rush.
Dave
My condolences to you as well. Life seems to have a habit of throwing curve balls sometimes. . .
When you're ready to go into more detail, I'd love to hear more about the incorporation of the Incra track into the setup, but no rush.
Dave
Corwin
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Thank you. Sorry I felt the need to mention this here, but, oh well, too late to do anything about that now. But again, thank you.
As to the Incremental Track for parallel cuts, I simply use two separate lengths of track as story sticks such that I can locate the guide rail at the desired location. The scales and stops on these lengths of track have been calibrated alike, and also to account for the width of the guide rail. In use, the end of the track butts against the guide rail with the stop at the other end to locate the edge of the material to be cut. The lengths of track can be clamped in position if needed, or simply removed once the guide rail is in place.
A similar arrangement is possible for cuts on the other side of the guide rail, with the end of the track (gently) indexed off the splinter strip. Here, the scales and stops are calibrated to allow for the saw's kerf. To clean up the ends of the splinter strip, connect with another guide rail and cut, repeat at other end. Now entire length of strip is in line.
There are other ways to utilize this versatile track. I like it for the accuracy, repeatability and step-and-repeat capabilities it provides. I also have the LS Positioner, which I also like. Incra offers an inexpensive (if $60 is inexpensive, that is) version that is a copy of their original product from, oh, maybe the late '70s or early 80's. Don't for a second that this little guy is only usefull on a router table. Try it on your drill press. I could go on, but you get the idea.
I hope that this has conveyed enough for you to see the various possibilities. If not, I would be more than happy to elaborate further on this thread.
Happy woodworking,
Corwin
As to the Incremental Track for parallel cuts, I simply use two separate lengths of track as story sticks such that I can locate the guide rail at the desired location. The scales and stops on these lengths of track have been calibrated alike, and also to account for the width of the guide rail. In use, the end of the track butts against the guide rail with the stop at the other end to locate the edge of the material to be cut. The lengths of track can be clamped in position if needed, or simply removed once the guide rail is in place.
A similar arrangement is possible for cuts on the other side of the guide rail, with the end of the track (gently) indexed off the splinter strip. Here, the scales and stops are calibrated to allow for the saw's kerf. To clean up the ends of the splinter strip, connect with another guide rail and cut, repeat at other end. Now entire length of strip is in line.
There are other ways to utilize this versatile track. I like it for the accuracy, repeatability and step-and-repeat capabilities it provides. I also have the LS Positioner, which I also like. Incra offers an inexpensive (if $60 is inexpensive, that is) version that is a copy of their original product from, oh, maybe the late '70s or early 80's. Don't for a second that this little guy is only usefull on a router table. Try it on your drill press. I could go on, but you get the idea.
I hope that this has conveyed enough for you to see the various possibilities. If not, I would be more than happy to elaborate further on this thread.
Happy woodworking,
Corwin
woodshopdemos said:I posted "how square is square" two weeks ago and was surprised at the degree of interest in the subject. And it was all good. So now, Elena and I put together two pages on making parallel cuts. They are not easier than making square cuts, nor are they less important. I find that the two methods, square and parallel pretty much alternate in any panel cut up job. What do you think.
Here is the post:http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fes-sq-2.htm
Excellent trick of shortening those rulers to match the guide rail. Just have to make sure they are both dead square to the edge and it should be right on! Cool!
I have been using the Wooodpeckers 24" T-Square to mark for my guide rails (up to 24" that is). This is working very well also, because as long as you get the pencil in the proper hole the mark itself will not be off. It has really sped things up. But I think I am going to give that ruler set up a try.
Seth
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Seth, you bring up an important point...the square ends. I think I showed using a jigsaw. What I did was to trim at chop saw...not something I would suggest. BUT to take your idea further, why not cut a pie shape end with the point only touching the guide rail.
woodshopdemos said:
Yes, a single point of contact on the guide rail end would be good. Someone suggested using large combination squares to get the other end square against the piece- that sounds like a good way. If we are going for ultimate speed and precision on this , then I think the issue of something to square the is important. If the ruler is slighgtly crooked then the measured length will be slightly short. The end of the ruler being cut perfectly square is a good help , but it is still very narrow to be used for accurate squaring. I would also want to find rules that are marked down to at least 1/16ths.
You know...... if this set up were alll in one large perfectly squared up frame, With adjustable ruler length, then it could be set to a size and just plunked down over and over again for repeating cuts!
Seth
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Dave Rudy said:
Seth,
It would be nice but every dimension is different so w very quick rule with a set is necessary. I will work on your single pointed end to the alums I have. That makes practical sense.
Corwin
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Hmmm, I like where this is going! When I ever get a chance to do anything around my shop I will try making a mounting board for two lengths of my Incra Track. Just a knee-jerk reaction here, but maybe mount the lengths using their T slots on a piece of ply or MDF with a spacer between such that they can index to parallel when tightened up against the spacer. The whole mounting jig could then be slid into the appropriate position for the cut to be made and tightened in position. Or, maybe it doesn't need to slide at all -- just mount it near the guide-rail end as the stops on the other end are the only thing that need to move. If needed, two or three sizes of mounting boards could be made to accommodate most any size panel. Like I said, just an instant responce so maybe I'll have to think on this one awhile...
Thus far, I've simply aligned the length of the Track flush with the edges of the workpiece -- but then that does make the assumption that the piece is square to begin with...
As to the end that butts up against the guide rail, I can mount an end-piece to the Track with a rounded end -- or whatever works.
Corwin
Thus far, I've simply aligned the length of the Track flush with the edges of the workpiece -- but then that does make the assumption that the piece is square to begin with...
As to the end that butts up against the guide rail, I can mount an end-piece to the Track with a rounded end -- or whatever works.
Corwin
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Corwin,
I am big fan of Incra products and use the TSIII religiously on TS. I would think for your usse on MFT, you would do the normal alignment of the rail and then zero the Incra to the rail. period.
I am big fan of Incra products and use the TSIII religiously on TS. I would think for your usse on MFT, you would do the normal alignment of the rail and then zero the Incra to the rail. period.
Corwin
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Correct. But I was responding to using two lengths of Incra Track as story sticks to index the guide rail off the material being cut (using a cutting table) rather than using the MFT with an Incra Track for a fence. If one was concerned that the story sticks were not parallel (and would throw off the alignment) they might make a jig to align the story sticks. Just a thought, and it was late...
My (current) shop is downstairs, so full 4'x8' sheet goods are usually cut in the garage on the cutting table --- anything smaller gets carted down to the MFTs. When I get into my new shop next year things will be different!
Corwin
My (current) shop is downstairs, so full 4'x8' sheet goods are usually cut in the garage on the cutting table --- anything smaller gets carted down to the MFTs. When I get into my new shop next year things will be different!
Corwin
Michael Kellough
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tk21769 said:
Entropy sucks. Or, is it gravity?
Dave Ronyak
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[quote author=Jay Evans link Over my career (30+ years) I have explained the concepts to many graduate engineers, who were never taught correctly during school. Then just when they start to get the concept, I remind them that square, flat and parallel has nothing to do with plumb and level.....and watch them scratch their heads.....that should start some discussion going.....
Jay Evans
[/quote]
Jay, I graduated from Case Tech engineering school in 1968, and mine was one of the last classes to even be exposed to mechanical drawing and layout. Even then we [non-mechanical] engineering students were not taught what you so well stated! Then and now I regret that I was not able to schedule any time to sneak into the machine shop at college to learn some of their measurement and layout techniques. Recently I struggled to layout the holes to be drilled in a phenolic plate for my JoinTech router table to fit a Freud 13A router for which there was no template. The router plate was premachined with ~4 inch cutout that was threaded for quick insertion/release of differently sized insert rings. The drilled and tapped holes in the fixed base of the Freud router were not located and machined such that I could remove that base from the router and set it on the router plate to assist in layout; besides I had to be on center for the PC bushing insert to work correctly. And I had to ensure that the router would be positioned correctly within the enclosure and that I wouldn't bung up any of the other pre-machined mounting holes, e.g. for the removable free-hand routing guide pin. I succeeded, but it was a struggle. Luckily I remembered some of the neat things you can do with a simple compass and the holes were nearly 120 degrees apart!
Dave R.
Jay Evans
[/quote]
Jay, I graduated from Case Tech engineering school in 1968, and mine was one of the last classes to even be exposed to mechanical drawing and layout. Even then we [non-mechanical] engineering students were not taught what you so well stated! Then and now I regret that I was not able to schedule any time to sneak into the machine shop at college to learn some of their measurement and layout techniques. Recently I struggled to layout the holes to be drilled in a phenolic plate for my JoinTech router table to fit a Freud 13A router for which there was no template. The router plate was premachined with ~4 inch cutout that was threaded for quick insertion/release of differently sized insert rings. The drilled and tapped holes in the fixed base of the Freud router were not located and machined such that I could remove that base from the router and set it on the router plate to assist in layout; besides I had to be on center for the PC bushing insert to work correctly. And I had to ensure that the router would be positioned correctly within the enclosure and that I wouldn't bung up any of the other pre-machined mounting holes, e.g. for the removable free-hand routing guide pin. I succeeded, but it was a struggle. Luckily I remembered some of the neat things you can do with a simple compass and the holes were nearly 120 degrees apart!
Dave R.
Per Swenson
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Hello All,
Great thread, thanks John.
Corwin, there is nothing I can say, but I thought it .
Remember when a builder makes a mistake, he must rebuild it.
But when a Architect screws up, it's time to plant bushes.
One other lil tiny thing.
When I mark stock, with whatever I have in my hand, (I lose pencils by the minute)
I mark in a V
You might be surprised how accurate this is.
Per
Great thread, thanks John.
Corwin, there is nothing I can say, but I thought it .
Remember when a builder makes a mistake, he must rebuild it.
But when a Architect screws up, it's time to plant bushes.
One other lil tiny thing.
When I mark stock, with whatever I have in my hand, (I lose pencils by the minute)
I mark in a V
You might be surprised how accurate this is.
Per
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