How to best keep loose laminate back splashes in place?

[RonMiller]

I've done alot of loose formica backsplashes over the years and am looking for ideas on how to better get them to stick against the wall. This because I'm about to replace 170 of them over the next 2 years in an apartment complex.

My method is usually to use silicone or construction adhesive on their backs to adhere them to the wall. I press them into place but often they won't stay because of curved walls. So then I cut off some spare wood pieces and jam them in between the cabinets above and the top of the splash. Cutting these wood pieces doesn't make me $ and they rarely seem to be re-usable.

Does anyone have an idea for a faster, more standardized way to do this? For example does anyone use a reversed clamp or is there actually a tool/thingy/doo-hickie for this?

TIA for your help.

 

[peter halle]

Ron,

Is it safe to assume that the countertops are laminate also?  How many do you anticipate doing at the same time?

Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

Hot melt glue for initial hold until the construction adhesive sets. Look at the HiPurformer.

http://www.titebond.com/hipurformer.aspx

VHB two side tape from 3M may work also.

Tom

 

[builderbob]

+1 for Toms recommendation

 

[mastercabman]

I use RTV silicon.I stopped using liquid nail because of failure to stick
I put silicon on back of splashes and between splashes and counter top,then caulk the splashes to the top with silicon.
I also use sticks like you do.The silicon dries fast.You can reuse those sticks.If they re a little too short,use shims.
The hot glue method is good but on long splashes I had a hard time to press the slashes hard against the wall.Some of those hot glue dries very fast and some have more time and it was allways working against me.If you have a helper then it goes pretty good.

 

[RonMiller]

Yes, Peter, the tops themselves are laminate (almost always wilsonart or formica). I don't see us doing more than about 6 pieces at a time but that can be alot of pressure sticks to cut if the walls are really bad (and they are in some places in this complex).

I was hoping Tom and Bob would respond since I know you do alot of this kind of work. Is the construction adhesive necessary with the hot melt or just cheaper or ???

 

[joiner1970]

We use stuff over here called STIXALL, sticks like sh*t, evo stik serious stuff the list goes on and on. I'm sure you have similar stuff your side of the pond. It's a flexible high strength building adhesive and has a really good initial grab , so is good for what you need.

 

[mastercabman]

I forgot to mention that there is a backsplash clip system that you can get(I will try to look for a link)
I knew someone who tried it but was not impressed with it.
I once helped him with it and all I can say is that if your counter top is not against the wall you can't secure the clip so that the splash is tight against the wall.

I would use construction adhesive/silicon with the hot glue

here is the link  http://www.thesmartclip.com/

 

[jmbfestool]

Silicone or construction adhesive are rubbish for sticking stuff to walls etc.

Something like Fixall, Sticks Like sh*t both MS-Polymer type of adhesive are far better adhesives to use to fix stuff!  10x better 100x better! 1000x better!  

Mater of fact if some one gave me free silicone or construction adhesive I wouldn't even use it I would go out and buy a polymer adhesive thats how crap I think silicone and construction adhesive is.  

Yes MS-Polymer type of adhesive do cost more but you get what you pay for!

http://www.uksealants.co.uk/soudal-fix-all-high-strength-adhesive!--p58.html?gclid=CLS7kKuA4rgCFU_MtAodLEUAAQ

OR

http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Sticks-Like-All-Weather-Adhesive-/134

About wall beings curved!  If your doing a lot of this then invest in some suction pads!    They dont have to be festool but you can get Festool Suction Dual suction padshttp://www.sws-armadilloproducts.co.uk/products/festool-dual-suction-pad-gecko-dosh-set/113/ as an example which would allow you do use same length of timbers with a wedge to wedge against the suction pads on the work top! 

OR as mentioned glue which you can easily remove after.

JMB

 

[Deansocial]

You could do with a bunch of shortened plasterboard props

 

[tjbnwi]

Is construction adhesive necessary or just the hot glue?------You can use just the hot glue. You will need to experiment with the glue time and time it takes you to spread to get the proper combination. Time properly you'll need no culls.

For cheap simple expandable culls, the twist to adjust spring loaded shower curtain rods in varying length. I have about 20 from bath remodels over the years.

Instead of wedging from upper cabinet to splash, a 30" piece of 1-by propped off the counter with a pice of 1-by located about centered in the counter top. This raises the cull to about the mid point of the splash. Push against the wall, clamp at edge of counter. This will jamb the splash to the wall.

Tom

 

[john5mt]

Doesn't anyone use smart clips?
http://www.thesmartclip.com/

The only way I do back splashes anymore.

I also wonder....could this be a new application for the domino?

 

[jmbfestool]

Doesn't anyone use smart clips?

http://www.thesmartclip.com/

The only way I do back splashes anymore.

I also wonder....could this be a new application for the domino?

Nope,

From watching the video looks like all they do is hold the splash back down to the work top and not tight upto the wall. So if the wall had a curve I can't see how these would benefit.  Unless the "click" is so strong but still its only on the bottom so the top would still bend over. 

They also seem alot of work routering them in.

When you can simply just stick glue on the splash back and job done if you have a straight wall.

 

[Ta2ude]

Maybe one of these would work. I use the HB220 for flooring but one of their other models or glues may better suit your needs. http://pamfast.com/index.php/products/hotmelt/

 

[john5mt]

Doesn't anyone use smart clips?

http://www.thesmartclip.com/

The only way I do back splashes anymore.

I also wonder....could this be a new application for the domino?

Nope,

From watching the video looks like all they do is hold the splash back down to the work top and not tight upto the wall. So if the wall had a curve I can't see how these would benefit.  Unless the "click" is so strong but still its only on the bottom so the top would still bend over. 

They also seem alot of work routering them in.

When you can simply just stick glue on the splash back and job done if you have a straight wall.

Not true. The clips hold it against the wall and hol it in place when there is a curve. As well it holds the top and splash together whenever there is a slight crown in the splash or a dip in the top. There is skittle bit of routing but once it locked in you're done. None of that jamming stuff against the uppers and waiting for the glue to dry and then coming back the next day.

To each their own but I wouldn't knock them before you try them on one top.

 

[jmbfestool]

Doesn't anyone use smart clips?

http://www.thesmartclip.com/

The only way I do back splashes anymore.

I also wonder....could this be a new application for the domino?

Nope,

From watching the video looks like all they do is hold the splash back down to the work top and not tight upto the wall. So if the wall had a curve I can't see how these would benefit.   Unless the "click" is so strong but still its only on the bottom so the top would still bend over.  

They also seem alot of work routering them in.

When you can simply just stick glue on the splash back and job done if you have a straight wall.

Not true. The clips hold it against the wall and hol it in place when there is a curve. As well it holds the top and splash together whenever there is a slight crown in the splash or a dip in the top. There is skittle bit of routing but once it locked in you're done. None of that jamming stuff against the uppers and waiting for the glue to dry and then coming back the next day.

To each their own but I wouldn't knock them before you try them on one top.

I wasnt knocking them just giving my opinion from the video.   They just have a more detailed video to give a better idea how they work.

I never have had to come back the fallowing day because the glue I use goes off pretty quick.

 

[mastercabman]

I also wonder....could this be a new application for the domino?

I think I know what you are talking about,but I would be scare to plunge the domino into stapples!

 

[lino-man]

Perhaps I'm the odd duck here, but I screw mine to the wall. I completely pre-build them and cut them to fit. Then I peal the front laminate off (because I only use a very thin layer of spray contact initially) and screw each piece into the studs (I.e., back first, respray laminate face and attach, then do the side pieces). I'm able to get a really nice tight finished look that perfectly conforms to each wall. Took me a while to come up with a system that looks good and holds well. But now that I've seen a link to the smart clips I want to try them.

 

[mastercabman]

Perhaps I'm the odd duck here, but I screw mine to the wall. I completely pre-build them and cut them to fit. Then I peal the front laminate off (because I only use a very thin layer of spray contact initially) and screw each piece into the studs (I.e., back first, respray laminate face and attach, then do the side pieces). I'm able to get a really nice tight finished look that perfectly conforms to each wall. Took me a while to come up with a system that looks good and holds well. But now that I've seen a link to the smart clips I want to try them.

Yeah definitely old school!!!!
I have removed old splashes that was nailed to wall then laminated.

 

[Laminator]

Used smart clips for thousands of feet of splash.  For the most part it works great.  The decking needs to be close to the wall and if the wall is full of humps and dips it can give you trouble.  With decent walls its a snap!  It does take the time to laminate, rout. install screws, install clips to the deck, snap the splashes on.  I use a 3hp bosch router and it loads it when using plywood.  PB and MDF rout easily.

I use a hybrid system on really bad walls where I leave the top edge off and fasten the top edge to the studs (after smart clipping)  and then scribe and fit the top piece to the wall.

I have laminated plenty where the splash was fastened to the wall raw.  This is the best way to get a perfect fit of every piece and as long as the cabs don't settle, will look perfect for long time.  It also is labor intensive lol.

Hotmelt glue is good to hold something until the real glue sets up. Once it cools to room temp it doesn't hold well to any smooth surface. (Painted or such)