How to cut a 45* bevel with a Kapex?

[Toller]

The manual says, for obvious reasons, that the good side should be down.  But for the life of me I can't figure out how to clamp the piece; the saw conflicts with the clamp when it is moved to 45*.  It is easy enough to have the good side up, but how do I clamp it down?

I just want to cut the piece on the left.

As long as I have posted the picture, any advice on clamping this would be appreciated.  I can put some dominoes in, but it is a bit small.

 

[Toller]

I still don't know how to cut it upside down...
But I found masking tape over the cut reduced the problem by about 75%.  Not too bad now.

 

[mastercabman]

Are you talking about bevel cut?    (tilting the saw head left or right?)
If so,i always cut with the nice side up.
As for the clamp,i never had any problem with it.Maybe a picture would help.

 

[nickao]

Why not stand it on its long edge and cut it like a miter?

 

[Toller]

Are you talking about bevel cut?     (tilting the saw head left or right?)
If so,i always cut with the nice side up.
As for the clamp,i never had any problem with it.Maybe a picture would help.

Good side up leaves much tear out.  The manual warns about it, and i sure got it.

If you have the good side up, you don't have a problem with the clamp.  But good side down is impossible.

 

[Toller]

Why not stand it on its long edge and cut it like a miter?

I tried that originally, but at 4.25" it is too big.  But it does have the thing to increase the capacity; I will have to read through the manual.  Thanks.

(My last resort would be to use the MFT table I built with your hardware...)

 

[Peterm]

Good side up leaves much tear out.  The manual warns about it, and i sure got it.

A piece of thin MDF or ply on top of the workpiece should prevent tear-out if you're cutting sunny side up, whichever saw you use...

Cheers, Pete.

 

[Frank-Jan]

If you have the crown stops, you can use a festool railclamp in the slot (You'll get some extra clearance for bevel cuts, I'm not sure if it will be enough for a 45? though, and the clamping location is further away from the cutting action).  I think Peterm suggestion will work (like the tape you already tried, but better). If you haven't tried it already, you could make a light score-cut before cutting all the way.

 

[mastercabman]

Are you talking about bevel cut?     (tilting the saw head left or right?)
If so,i always cut with the nice side up.
As for the clamp,i never had any problem with it.Maybe a picture would help.

Good side up leaves much tear out.  The manual warns about it, and i sure got it.

If you have the good side up, you don't have a problem with the clamp.  But good side down is impossible.

Why not score the cut first,then cut all the way?

When you say: good side down is impossible,  What's impossible?

 

[Toller]

Are you talking about bevel cut?     (tilting the saw head left or right?)
If so,i always cut with the nice side up.
As for the clamp,i never had any problem with it.Maybe a picture would help.

Good side up leaves much tear out.  The manual warns about it, and i sure got it.

If you have the good side up, you don't have a problem with the clamp.  But good side down is impossible.

Why not score the cut first,then cut all the way?

When you say: good side down is impossible,  What's impossible?

I tried Pete's idea about the scrap over the wood, and it is even more effective than masking tape; problem solved.  Thanks.

Okay, to get a 45* angle, the good side has to be up.  If you put it down (cutting a 135* angle) the saw flops back over the wood.  Then there is no room for the clamp.  Try it if you can't picture this.
I tried to use a bar clamp instead, but there is no place to put that either.  I just don't see how a 45* can be cut upside down.
Except by using scrap to protect it of course.

 

[mastercabman]

Are you talking about bevel cut?     (tilting the saw head left or right?)
If so,i always cut with the nice side up.
As for the clamp,i never had any problem with it.Maybe a picture would help.

Good side up leaves much tear out.  The manual warns about it, and i sure got it.

If you have the good side up, you don't have a problem with the clamp.  But good side down is impossible.

Why not score the cut first,then cut all the way?

When you say: good side down is impossible,  What's impossible?

I tried Pete's idea about the scrap over the wood, and it is even more effective than masking tape; problem solved.  Thanks.

Okay, to get a 45* angle, the good side has to be up.  If you put it down (cutting a 135* angle) the saw flops back over the wood.  Then there is no room for the clamp.  Try it if you can't picture this.
I tried to use a bar clamp instead, but there is no place to put that either.  I just don't see how a 45* can be cut upside down.
Except by using scrap to protect it of course.

I'm totally lost!         I'm not trying to be anal,but how is it possible that you can use the clamp when the "good" side is up,but you can't use it when it is down? ??? ??? ???
Or did i miss something here?

 

[Toller]

I'm totally lost!         I'm not trying to be anal,but how is it possible that you can use the clamp when the "good" side is up,but you can't use it when it is down? ??? ??? ???
Or did i miss something here?

Try  it.
Set the bevel to 45*.
Try to clamp a piece of wood.
With the good side up, the clamp is on one side and the saw is on the other.
With the good side down, the clamp and saw are on the same side, and there isn't room.

 

[mastercabman]

I'm totally lost!         I'm not trying to be anal,but how is it possible that you can use the clamp when the "good" side is up,but you can't use it when it is down? ??? ??? ???
Or did i miss something here?

Try  it.
Set the bevel to 45*.
Try to clamp a piece of wood.
With the good side up, the clamp is on one side and the saw is on the other.
With the good side down, the clamp and saw are on the same side, and there isn't room.

OK,i think i know what you are talking about.
The saw head is tilted on the same side as the clamp,right?
But what is wrong with cutting with the good side up?I usually cut with the good side up.

 

[Toller]

OK,i think i know what you are talking about.
The saw head is tilted on the same side as the clamp,right?
But what is wrong with cutting with the good side up?I usually cut with the good side up.

You get a fuzzy edge that has to be sanded on the top, and tear out on the far end. 
I solved the fuzzy edge by putting a piece of scrap on top, and no one will see the tear out; but it would be nice to cut it good side down.

Maybe butternut is worse than other woods.

 

[nickao]

Switch the blade to a Forrest and I bet you could cut good side up with perfect results. If not its the saw. The Ridgid I have used for two years with a Forrest blade cuts smooth as glass good side up.