How to make angled dining table legs

s1nglemalt

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Aug 14, 2014
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I want to use the Domino XL to create the three angles required for a dining table 36" x 84" in walnut as similar to below.
a. The base angle will show the ~5' bottom base stretcher to the two side rails which will attach to it at the ends
b. The side rail angles will attach to the vertical pieces that will be angled ~10 degrees outwards
c. The vertical pieces will have a stretcher attached so I can attach the table base to the stretcher to allow for seasonality

My initial thoughts, subject to all suggestions, are to build the bottom base and side rails at 6/4 x 2" wide, and the vertical pieces at 6/4 x 3" wide. I would domino the side rails to stretcher at an angle of ~20 degrees without a mortise, just maximum surface area for each piece. For the verticals to the rails, I want max strength, so mortise or whatever you think.

I do not want to overthink this, but I do want to account for max strength so if someone sits on the table, the verticals will not give way. This is where "C" comes in with the tabletop stretcher doing more than just allowing for seasonality. There are a few ways to do this, and I know you can help a new Domino guy out. Danke.
 

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Hopefully i can explain this well.  If i need to domino a strange angle, i cut an angled piece to lay on the workpiece and clamp to it.  I increase the depth of plunge the thickness of my "shim" and plunge through the shim into the workpiece and discard the shim. 
 
Thanks for the tips on the plunge. I will use them.

Need more help: For the vertical leg joint to the bottom "wing" joint I see 3 options. I want to angle the vertical piece about 5-10 degrees outward towards the edges of the table. Not much. First, I could quasi-mitre the joint and each piece is angled slightly to get more face grain. Second, I could run the vertical piece to the floor, and the wing would be cut at a small angle. Finally, I could run the wing to the outer edge of the vertical piece, and butt the vertical to the face of the wing. There are 3 or more options. Can you help me?
 
The easiest way, in my opinion, is to cut the mortise in your 90° stock before you cut your miters. You can either cut the mortises too depth to compensate for the lost depth of cut, or you can trim the tenons to length. Just be careful not to plunge so deep with the mortise that you blow through the back of the lumber.
 
After some plywood trials I think this is the best way, please rip it up if not.
1. I will cut the bottom stretcher leg, or wing, mitred at 45 degree
2. I will cut the vertical piece mitred at 50 degrees to allow for the 5 degree outward cant
3. Domino them both and I am done

Sound legit?
 
The four dining table legs are complete, and I need your advice on support braces and butt joints. I initially thought of 2 braces going side to side between each vertical leg, somehow attached to each leg so the leg comes up through the board and the top of the leg will be flush with the top of the brace. In other words, drill holes in brace, jigsaw out rectangle to fit, use pocket holes to attach.

Now I am thinking about building a center strut piece between both braces that attaches them together. Would you do it? It does not add much value, but if you feel it would, I may do it. Since it will also run lengthwise like the walnut top, I may not attach it tightly.

Finally, as you see in the photos, the vertical legs are not 90, but 96. They meet the dining table bottom rail as a butt joint with two dominos. I clamped them, and please tell me this joint will be strong enough? Hence, my vertical support idea.

What do you think?
 

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