How to make curved cover ?
- Thread starter Steve1
- Start date
Jesse Cloud
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 1,746
[member=65451]Steve1[/member] Coopering makes a beautiful piece and is fun to do, except for sanding the concave interior part of the door - that is a ton of work. Probably not something you would do if this is a paying job...
If you have an LS130, you can make a pattern for the curve and save some time.
If you have an LS130, you can make a pattern for the curve and save some time.
After a little experimenting, I concluded that with my equipment and skill level, my best bet was to do the math and make multiple depth cuts. First I glued up the stock (plywood) and made a saw cut to the appropriate depth every one inch. Then I roughed it out using a combination of chisel, router table and table saw. The two outriggers on the side are just so the slab sits flat on my machines. Belt sander did pretty quick work of smoothing it out.
Hmmm..... laminate is only on the visible (curved) face. Hope that is not a mistake. Did that once on a much bigger panel and it turned into a banana.
Hmmm..... laminate is only on the visible (curved) face. Hope that is not a mistake. Did that once on a much bigger panel and it turned into a banana.
Attachments
nice job [thumbs up]
not sure if laminate acts like wood veneer. Ive always read when veneering a panel, do both sides to balance the stresses. Non show side doesnt have to be good veneer. But this isnt a flat panel and its not wood veneer, lol.
not sure if laminate acts like wood veneer. Ive always read when veneering a panel, do both sides to balance the stresses. Non show side doesnt have to be good veneer. But this isnt a flat panel and its not wood veneer, lol.
The two sided business is not really about the veneer it’s about the substrate. If the substrate is subject to movement and it is exposed to humidity and temperature fluctuations on one surface but sealed off those fluctuations on the other surface by the veneer the substrate can move causing damage to the veneer. In this case with the substrate being plywood I wouldn’t see that as a problem at all.
It would have been easy to put laminate on the backside a few days ago, but now I have holes for locating pins and screwheads for magnetic holders on the backside.
2-3 days after applying the laminate, the backside of the one cover is still dead flat. The other cover has some bend on one corner, where the material is thin, but it had that after roughing out. I have that piece fixtured with some weight on that corner, to overbend it, to see if I can convince it to go back to where I wanted it.
2-3 days after applying the laminate, the backside of the one cover is still dead flat. The other cover has some bend on one corner, where the material is thin, but it had that after roughing out. I have that piece fixtured with some weight on that corner, to overbend it, to see if I can convince it to go back to where I wanted it.
Similar threads
