I need opinions on a tablesaw

WoodChuckWoods

WoodChuckWoods

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Joined
Dec 18, 2010
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129
i have had my rigid tablesaw for 8 years it has been very good to me but just the other day it started acting really strange. it takes like 8-10 seconds to get up to speed and if you put the blade under any kind of load the it just stops, i checked the belt and everything seems good it doesn't slip that i can tell. not really sure what to do, if i have to buy a new saw it couldn't come at a worse time so my budget would only be about $1000. so i guess I'm asking 2 questions, 1. does anyone know what is wrong with my saw/can it be fixed cheap.  2. what is a good saw around 1000 dollars?
 
I am not familiar with that specific saw. Since it is a single phase motor, I suspect that it has a start capacitor and posibly also a run capacitor on the motor. This would normally look like a bulge on the motor housing that has a removable cover. Very common after a while for the capacitor to go bad and a bad start capacitor would do exactly what you are describing. If you unplug the saw and remove the cap cover, i suspect you will find a blackened or leaking cap that smells burnt. If you can read the info printed on it, you should be able to get a replacement from a motor shop or on-line. Cost will probably be $50 or less. Could be some other problem with the motor but I doubt it.
Pete
 
Sounds like the capacitors in the start/run circuit of the motor are bad.  Bring the whole motor to a motor repair shop and you'll be spending very little compared to the price of a replacement saw.
 
Just thought about it, but you said it's a Ridgid table saw and you might get lucky that the motor and associated parts are covered under warranty.  Call them to find out.  By chance, it's also quite possibly a bad electic cord to the motor.
 
Actually, I have the big Craftsman saw and have used that for years without a problem.
The rip fence is really good, and it is about $700.  All I did to it was upgrade the belt to a link belt and put a Forrest Woodworker II saw blade in there and it has worked like a dream.

Of course, when it dies, I'm gonna pop for a Unisaw, but for the past 7 years, the Craftsman has served me well and it has gotten a LOT of use.

(Just my 2-cents).

-Nick-
 
I dont think you state the exact model of the Rigid, that makes a difference in whether fixing it is worth it.

For a 1000.00 there are several saws that are very nice! For the money and a 1000.00 no question I would get one of the Grizzly saws that have fantastic reviews or the Craftsman. Finding the right model from them is important.  

My wife purchased me a Craftsman hybrid for Christmas years back and even dragged it in the shop herself so it really is hard for me to think of replacing it. It has been a fantastic saw, made in China I don't care, this thing is perfect. When they are on sale you can get them for a steal of 799.00. I put the WWII thin kerf blade on it, a link belt, a large  Incra fence and a 10 foot wide table with built in router tops on each side. I have never stalled the motor ripping 2" thick Cumaru, Ipe and other exotic hardwoods and after 6 years there is still not one thing wrong with it. It passes the balance a penny trick on edge easily too. The dust collection is average, not spectacular.

Some people claim it needs more power, one guy said it has trouble cutting 3/4" Oak, obviously he does not know what the heck he is doing and the saw is out of alignment or he is using the stock blade, etc, etc. IMHO for a hybrid you MUST use thin kerf bade if you want to cut thick hardwoods, if you want the thick blade  go 3 hp. Yeah, compared to a 3hp it is underpowered, but the kickback is not where near as severe as the larger saws either. It also comes with the Biesmeyer fence stock, which is sweet. The miter gauge is a throw in and not the best, but not even close to the worst at all. I use an Incra 5000 or a custom set up I made. Nice thing about this hybrid is that it is cabinet mounted for easy to get perfect alignment, some of the hybrids are not, watch out for that. The wood table is crap toss it out. I replaced mine with a cast iron extension with the router mount. I am not sure what they give with the granite version as a side ext table. The out feed table is crap too, I never attached it, but it seems to work for some.

The saw has an option of the granite top now as well and there are 2 model numbers, one model is better than the other, I will track that down.

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/539

http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-Professional-10-in-Table-Saw-reviews

Grizzly saws worth consideration:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P

A bit over the 1000.00

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3-HP-220V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RL

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0690

These are not Festool quality or Powermatic 66 or Saw Stop type saws. But for a 1000.00 and for me personally any of them are well worth it.

 
I picked up a 1990 PM66 with a 54" fence for well under that mark.

Of course most can't deal with a 5hp 3ph motor.
 
As others have said, it sounds like the start/run capacitors are shot.  This is a fairly inexpensive and easy thing to replace and the parts could be covered under warranty.  I have the same issue on my lathe -- now it is not a saw blade so I can get it started manually by spinning the hand wheel, but it will not even start with hitting the switch.

Scot
 
I see that you are in Anchorage, try taking the motor to Hayden Electric on Old Seward by The Brown Jug.  They should be able to diagnose it.
 
Thanks everyone for all the input. Funny I went down to the shop and it started working perfectly. Not sure what's going on but I'm just gonna go with it for now. I've been saving up for a saw stop just not ready yet.
 
Sooo looks like my saw is visiting the pearly rip fence in the sky, but now my budget is $2000 with shipping if needed. i was looking at a grizzly model #g0691. i have heard mixed reviews on grizzly products some really great but some not so much, any opinions would be great and im not set on a grizzly but it seems like i can get the features i want and the hp with their saws. i want to buy new though.
 
My wife loves the fact that I have a Sawstop -- contractor version.  It has been great.
 
I had the craftsman 22124 hybrid saw.  It's a very good saw however even with a thin kerf forrest ww2 it is under powered for hardwoods like maple.  You constantly play the fine line between burning and bogging out the motor.  3hp or more is the only way.  I haven't seen any bad reviews about the G1023.  I know the PM2000 is out of your range but I know they took them out of the school I attended because of constant quality issues.  They just use old PM66, unisaws, sliding laguna and mostly the ICS sawstops. 
 
I have had the G1023 for two years and have not had any problems with it. I have a WW2 blade in it and have never been dissapointed with the power.
 
I'm noticing that most the saws I look at seem to be left tilting, is there a difference between left and right? Or is it only a matter of opinion?
 
WoodChuckWoods said:
I'm noticing that most the saws I look at seem to be left tilting, is there a difference between left and right? Or is it only a matter of opinion?
Click to expand...

OH NO!  Another debate/argument about to begin!

Here's the gist of the "whatever you want to term it from above".  Right tilt saws can trap your piece between the blade and rip fence increasing the likelihood of kickback.  Some will argue that cutting beveled pieces is easier and so are thin pieces like veneers.  Make everyone happy and get a dual tilting saw.  [big grin]
 
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