I sold my CMS

[DynaGlide]

I've been a big proponent of the CMS since getting it a few years ago. When I got it I thought how great it would be to be able to tuck it away when not in use. In reality though, I never did that. I had to store all the accessories on shelves and the main GE unit stayed upright in a corner. I debated selling it for the past year or so but finally did it about two weeks ago to fund another tool acquisition, a proper jointer, short on the heels after getting the planer and a dust collector. My last project really showed me how much I wanted traditional tools like a planer and jointer. I always felt like a hack trying to work with wood that was S4S from somewhere else and had slight bows and curves when it made it to me.

After setting up the jointer and using it for the first time, I can't get the smile off my face and I don't regret the decision.

I started off full Festool and determined that I would only ever build cabinets and in that work I wouldn't need the normal tools. That's changing and am excited to do more with hardwoods in the future. The one thing that did always bother me with the CMS was the darn fence. In use it always worked out fine for the projects I was doing but I never did like how I couldn't make it dead square to the table. I don't have any router table projects on the horizon for the next year but when I do I'll be looking into buying a top/fence combo ready to go and probably make a cabinet for it.

Matt

 

[rvieceli]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] Matt congrats on those acquisitions and I’m sure you’ll enjoy using them.

Since you are now using solid woods may I strongly suggest getting a good moisture meter and using it diligently when acquiring wood. You need to know the moisture content to tell if it’s ready to be worked.

I’m fond of the Wagner pinless series.
https://www.wagnermeters.com/wood-m...7Ik-nZxv-FBhlBy_SFj7OKwci8yWQpncaAjutEALw_wcB

I’d also suggest developing a relationship with a local sawyer with a kiln. Whole different world of work opens up.

Ron

 

[festal]

Nice.  Enjoy.  How is the bench build going?

 

[Sparktrician]

I think you're having too much fun, Matt...  [big grin]

 

[DynaGlide]

Nice.  Enjoy.  How is the bench build going?

I haven't had much time for it, but I think I'm going to go to woodworking jail for using this nice maple for the frame.

 

[jeh]

If you have the room, as you do, you will be much happier with standalone machines.

 

[rvieceli]

I have and really like the 910 model. I don't usually work with anything less than 1.5 inch thick. The 910 is a deep depth (around .75+) measuring meter.

If you only work with .75 or less then the 920 is the shallow depth meter.

Do both and the 930 is dual depth. You can switch between both depths via buttons on the face.

Wagner has a store on Amazon with decent prices.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/...fb45-b0f6-4f88-b2f9-cb56108fc9dc&ref_=ast_bln

tools4flooring.com also has good prices as well if you don't like Amazon
https://www.tools4flooring.com/moisture-testing-tools.html?manufacturer=82

Ron

 

[rmwarren]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] Matt you make a great point. I personally went minimalist when transitioning from ~800 SF to 120 SF and then tried to make a virtue of it. Major face-plant in many respects and hugely frustrating.

Seeing that long, shiny jointer bed hurts. Enjoy it, & thanks pal...  [poke]

RMW

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member] I've taken a Marie Kondo approach to my tools  [big grin]

The CMS was failing step 3 for me: Keep only those things that spark joy.

 

[Rick Herrick]

I had purchased a bench top Rikon jointer and it has helped me a little but I can't imagine how nice it is with this new planar Matt.  Good luck.

 

[DynaGlide]

I had purchased a bench top Rikon jointer and it has helped me a little but I can't imagine how nice it is with this new planar Matt.  Good luck.

[member=72312]Rick Herrick[/member] I did some initial milling on a bunch of 8/4 boards yesterday. They started about 2 1/8" thick and since adding the Wixey DRO to the planer, I was able to hit about 1.93" thickness for most of the boards S3S and nice and flat/square along their lengths. It was pretty satisfying.

I know you mentioned not seeing the need for the Wixey and I didn't really either until I used it.

It's great in that you can do each board separate from the others versus having to batch them all out together to maintain a consistent thickness. Easy to read and see exactly how much you're taking off with each pass.

 

[cpw]

One of the nice things about the DW735 is that it has the depth stop wheel, so you can easily raise/lower the head and go back.  I was a little worried about not having a stop on my MM combo J/P, but the analog height gauge with hundreths is definitely enough reproducibility for me.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Matt - glad to see you got the 8". Years ago I bought a long bed 6" and a year later got a Grizz 8" with spherical head. I love milling my own lumber. You will learn from experience how to read the wood. Like if you have a bow run it with bow side up, move your pressure from back to front, and don't put too much downward pressure. A good set of push blocks will help - I bought the Micro Jig ones with a tail hook.

I also dug up this old cast top treatment document from many years ago (I use Boeshield T9 before the paste wax):

1) Scrape as much of the sludge as you can off with cardboard from the shipping container or a plastic scraper.
2) Use Simple Green right out of the container and tons of paper towels to get the rest off.
3) Wash off the Simple Green with more paper towels and clear water. Dry off with even more paper towels.
4) Spray the top down liberally with WD40. The WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacing, by the way.
5) Take a finishing sander, like a Porter-Cable 330, and put it on a ScotchBrite green pad. Random Orbital will work, but makes a hell of a mess.
6) Sand the top evenly until you feel like you've "massaged" the WD40 in very well. This also will knock some sharp spots off your top, a good thing.
7) Take even more paper towels, and wipe the top until dry. It will feel slightly oily.
8) Using a quality furniture paste wax (Johnson's, Minwax, Butcher's, whatever is available in your area), wax the top thoroughly and allow to dry.
9) Wipe off the bulk of the excess wax with paper towels.
10) Wax it again.
11) Buff well with paper towels.
12) Last step. Take a piece of wood with straight edges, and rub the surface of the saw in the direction of cut with the wood, as though you were cross-cutting it.
It's a damn sight more steps than "wash off with kerosene", which is what all the manuals say. But, it leaves a top that is seriously ready for work, and won't need to be screwed with every couple months. I rewax my tops every year or two, and they ain't rusty...

Dave Arbuckle

 

[Cheese]

I know you mentioned not seeing the need for the Wixey and I didn't really either until I used it.

It's great in that you can do each board separate from the others versus having to batch them all out together to maintain a consistent thickness. Easy to read and see exactly how much you're taking off with each pass.

Another big fan of the Wixey gauge...it was the first item I changed on the 735. Mine was purchased so long ago that it takes the 2032 coin cells that only last about 6-9 months. Especially nice for heavily figured woods like Birdseye maple so that you can take a shallow .010"-.015" cut.

 

[batmanimal]

Congratulations on the new additions! I’m sure whoever bought your CMS was delighted to get one. Win-win situation!

Always fun to see how your alls workshops evolve and grow. Kind of gives me a glimpse of what the future may hold for me (if I ever progress that far).

I also have a Marie Kondo approach to my workshop. Have not managed to part with any Festool though… Even the ones I barely use spark joy. I blame the green. It’s very sparky.  ️