Mike35x95x1
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Ironing Table Scratches
- Thread starter Mike35x95x1
- Start date
The dent is pretty deep, and the water has to reach the fibers at the deepest part of the damage.
I would try once more.
This time fill the dent with water and let it stand for awhile. (And no, I don’t know how long “awhile” would be. I think I would wait an hour.)
Then top off the dent with more water and apply heat.
Note: The process will allow the fibers to attempt to return to their pre-damage condition. But the torn fibers will remain torn.
Even with your best efforts, you will likely have to use filler and sandpaper and refinish the surface.
I have used this technique to eliminate some small dings that would telegraph through the paint. Also note, the steam will instantly raise the grain and sanding will likely be required.
I would try once more.
This time fill the dent with water and let it stand for awhile. (And no, I don’t know how long “awhile” would be. I think I would wait an hour.)
Then top off the dent with more water and apply heat.
Note: The process will allow the fibers to attempt to return to their pre-damage condition. But the torn fibers will remain torn.
Even with your best efforts, you will likely have to use filler and sandpaper and refinish the surface.
I have used this technique to eliminate some small dings that would telegraph through the paint. Also note, the steam will instantly raise the grain and sanding will likely be required.
Hi, we use this on slabs,may work for youhttps://knottec.com/
Peter Kelly
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That looks like veneer over an engineered core so you probably won’t be able to steam the wood fibers enough to raise the dent. Your best bet might be to try to fill it with a shellac burn in stick.
Peter Kelly said:
I think you are almost certainly right. I cannot see the substrate, but I doubt that a solid oak [?] board would dent that deeply.
I had a black piano delivered to me back about 35 years ago. It had a couple of small dings that stood out immensely on the glossy black finish.
The dealer sent a repairman, a older craftsman well past retirement age. He burned in the shellac. He had quite an array of colors to choose from, including more than one color of black.
Searching as hard as I could, I could not locate the original damage. As my engineer would have said, “The surface was 100% homogenous.”
But the dings in the photos that accompany this thread are far larger and deeper than what I saw on my piano. Is there a limitation on the depth of damage that the shellac sticks can fill? And how to replicate the grain?
Peter Kelly
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I probably wouldn't attempt to repair a ding in a table top much more than a quarter using a shellac stick. The material itself can be sort of brittle and a large fill of it might get chipped on a high wear surface like a dining table. Defenitely epoxy for larger stuff.
Mohawk has all sorts of markers, pencils and paint kits specifically for duplicating wood grain. Takes a bit of practice to get good at it.https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair
Mohawk has all sorts of markers, pencils and paint kits specifically for duplicating wood grain. Takes a bit of practice to get good at it.https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair
When I got started in picture framing, I used to cross nail the corners of frames to hold the frame together while the glue dried.
I filled the nail holes with a wax filler. Very easy to use. You scrape a bit out of the cup and press it into the hole with your finger. Then buff by hand with a piece of cotton cloth. It did an admirable job of hiding the holes.
But those surfaces did not get handled. I’m sure that the wax was not hard enough for a table surface.
We would get sticks of wax from Liberon. Or in metal cups from a vendor whose name I don’t remember.
Just looked it up: Amaco. But the Liberon stuff was better. Especially their gold finishes, which came in a jar.
Liberon also makes the shellac filler sticks.
I filled the nail holes with a wax filler. Very easy to use. You scrape a bit out of the cup and press it into the hole with your finger. Then buff by hand with a piece of cotton cloth. It did an admirable job of hiding the holes.
But those surfaces did not get handled. I’m sure that the wax was not hard enough for a table surface.
We would get sticks of wax from Liberon. Or in metal cups from a vendor whose name I don’t remember.
Just looked it up: Amaco. But the Liberon stuff was better. Especially their gold finishes, which came in a jar.
Liberon also makes the shellac filler sticks.
Peter Kelly
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The Liberon shellac sticks I've bought were good but they often show up broken in a few places. They seem more brittle than the Mohawk ones. Might have to order a set of the wax ones for nail holes.
I would imagine that the more brittle sticks are harder and would make a harder patch. I wonder if they list a hardness measurement.
Put the wax sticks in an airtight container. Otherwise the surface gets hard and you have to scrape away some of the wax to get at the softer part.
I eventually settled on the stuff in tins as they keep longer. I have some 25 year old wax and it is still useable.
For framing, the gold got heavy usage. (Gold frames go with any decor).
As a rule, we picked the mat colors to go with the image and the frame style and color to go with the furnishings in the room. Since gold works for modern and heritage furnishings, we used a lot of gold molding.
Put the wax sticks in an airtight container. Otherwise the surface gets hard and you have to scrape away some of the wax to get at the softer part.
I eventually settled on the stuff in tins as they keep longer. I have some 25 year old wax and it is still useable.
For framing, the gold got heavy usage. (Gold frames go with any decor).
As a rule, we picked the mat colors to go with the image and the frame style and color to go with the furnishings in the room. Since gold works for modern and heritage furnishings, we used a lot of gold molding.
sancho57
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all depends how far into the weeds ya wanna go. You can use a hard fill stick as someone already noted,
you can use putty colored to match looks like golden oak, but Id also try fruitwoodhttps://woodrepairproducts.com/product/fil-o-wood/
Epoxy would be another choice yu can mix and match until you get the right colorhttps://woodrepairproducts.com/?s=epoxy
Or simply use a wood bondo and then mix and match a stain to blend the bondo in to match the color and use a graining marker to match the grain and they sell aerosol top coats WB or Solvent base depending
https://woodrepairproducts.com/product/blendal-powder-stain/
If it were me Id use the simplest method possible which I think would be the putty
you can use putty colored to match looks like golden oak, but Id also try fruitwoodhttps://woodrepairproducts.com/product/fil-o-wood/
Epoxy would be another choice yu can mix and match until you get the right colorhttps://woodrepairproducts.com/?s=epoxy
Or simply use a wood bondo and then mix and match a stain to blend the bondo in to match the color and use a graining marker to match the grain and they sell aerosol top coats WB or Solvent base depending
https://woodrepairproducts.com/product/blendal-powder-stain/
If it were me Id use the simplest method possible which I think would be the putty