Is ripping narrow stock the TS achilles heel?

[dabfog]

Try this plunge into the end of the stock just far enough in to allow the full exposed blade to "plungein". The gently back up a 1/4", then complete your cut.
Also, how long are your pieces? Can you rig up a set of scrap pieces so there is a trench, with an outer "wall" to the right of the track and a "sacrificial fence" block at the end?
Say some scrap or extra stock brad nailed to a sheet of plywood with a piece wide enough to support the track, another to the right of that piece to just admit the work piece and the sacrificial stop block at the far end?

 

[Packard]

I made this simple jig.  A thin kerf blade will save a lot of material if you are making many strips.  I use a feather board with mine.  The 6" width is fine.  I feel more comfortable with an 8" width pusher.  Long lengths are an issue.  I find 4' is the longest that is easily handled. 

Short lengths are an issue too.  They cannot kickback, but they can kick up. A sacrificial hold down will resolve that issue.  2½ to 3 feet is the sweet spot for this jig.  If you need shorter lengths, then rip them longer and then cut them to length.  So I would cut 3 foot pieces and then get three 11" ones from each cut piece.  More efficient and safer. 

 

[ChuckS]

The heading isn't clear, but by TS, the thread is about the Track Saw. (Some people use the Grr-ripper to make 1/8" strips with ease on the table saw.).

 

[Packard]

Yes, I thought TS was table saw. I bought the track saw as an adjunct to the table saw, but it has been seeing more service as I get used to it.  But the table saw and the radial arm saw do some things better than the track saw.

Do most people get rid of their table saws after buying a track saw?

 

[CeeJay]

Do most people get rid of their table saws after buying a track saw?

Nope. Still use my table saw 90% of the time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ChuckS]

Can't speak for those who handle mostly sheet goods, but haven't come across anyone here who does hardwood furniture work and ditches their table saw after getting the track saw.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I do both sheet goods work and hardwood too. I would never even think about getting rid of a tablesaw, but the tracksaw gets it's share of work too.  They each have their strengths.
Tracksaws are great for breaking down sheet goods, but I see them as finish cuts. I see way too many people, especially Youtubers, consider that a preliminary step to do the final cut on a tablesaw.
Tablesaw definitely for repetitive strips in sheet goods, dados, rabbets, etc.
I certainly wouldn't taper a table leg with a tracksaw, but they excel on cuts were the object to be cut is large/long/heavy.

 

[Packard]

I had long assumed that people morphed from being table saw users to being track saw users and I also assumed that most would hang onto their table saws. 

For those who only have a track saw, I apologize for this topic drift. 

If you do still have a table saw, then trying to rip narrow stock with a track saw seems akin to trying to teach a racehorse to run on his hind legs.  You might get him to make some progress, but it will be against his nature, and he surely will make slow progress.

I bought the track saw to work with sheet goods and there it excels, being sufficiently precise as well as being safer to handle the large panels.  It also makes cleaner cuts than my table saw on plywood and melamine clad particleboard. 

In all cases I try to remember to use the best tool for the task at hand whether it is a track saw, table saw or radial arm saw, sliding table miter saw, hand held circular saw or chop saw.