Is the 106" guide rail worth getting?

[copcarcollector]

To anyone who has and has used the 118" rail, do you get or notice any deflection especially in the middle of the cut (middle of the rail). Do you clamp the rail down or rely on the non skid strips on the back to keep it lined up?

 

[fp1337]

The 3m track, 491501, is more user friendly than the 2700mm one you mention even when cutting 8' because you don't have to be so careful with the overhang at the beginning and end.

Tom

Your comment makes me wonder if the 55" is enough to cut 48" sheet?

No worries it works out, I've got both 55 and 106 and I have no overhang issues on 4x8 plywood. I don't let the saw overhang the rail because that would throw off the cut, and I can still cut 4x8 sheets very comfortably. The 106 rail rocks, I don't use it as often as the 55 but when you need it, nothing else will work. Don't rely on the connection system, it's just not accurate at all. I would never connect 2 rails...

 

[fp1337]

To anyone who has and has used the 118" rail, do you get or notice any deflection especially in the middle of the cut (middle of the rail). Do you clamp the rail down or rely on the non skid strips on the back to keep it lined up?

I didn't notice any deflection, it always cuts exactly on the line. I do clamp the rails each time because I don't trust that I can safely slide a circular saw without clamping the guide. Especially that half of the time the rail catches the hose as I slide the saw, this would throw everything off if it wasn't clamped. It doesn't take long to clamp the guide thanks to the special clamps you can purchase for it (I got the Dewalts they are cheaper)

 

[mattdh]

it seems like more guys are saying the 55 is ok for crosscut of 4x8 sheet but less guys saying 106 is not as good as the 118 for ripping(if this makes sense?) just wondering why? or is it just me?

 

[atlr]

Bumping a related question, are there ruler increments on guide rails and if not are there ruler tapes that can be attached that won't interfere with sliding the saw?

Since there is not a engraved rule on the track, you might like an extra limit stop.http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/track-saws/stops-and-accessories/limit-stop-491582

 

[Paul G]

Got the big rail and as luck would have it, for some of my first cuts the 118" rail was too short so I added the 55". While I was glad to be able to rip the 10' ply, therail  connecting left a lot to be desired IMO. Is it typical for the rail ends to not be truly square? When pressed tightly together the junction was clearly not straight using my level as a guide so had to open them up a bit to get it there. And I'm probably not tightening the lock screws enough but they kept slipping a little. The only standard screwdriver I had at the time that would fit without buggaring the threads had a tiny handle. Glad I won't be joining rails often, I'd have a very hard time trusting it was in line and staying that way.

 

[peter halle]

The end of the guide rails are not necessarily square to the long edge.  Leave a little gap when joining and align a known straight edge along the non splinter guard side when tightening.  The little screws with the slotted head were put there for a reason - to offer a little protection against over tightening.  You could replace them with has type but then be careful not to dimple the rail.

Peter

 

[Paul G]

The end of the guide rails are not necessarily square to the long edge.  Leave a little gap when joining and align a known straight edge along the non splinter guard side when tightening.  The little screws with the slotted head were put there for a reason - to offer a little protection against over tightening.  You could replace them with has type but then be careful not to dimple the rail.

Peter

Yea, dimpling is a real possibility with this system as is, there's gotta be a better way to connect rails. Do they sell longer bars with more set screws to add more connection points?

 

[semenza]

The end of the guide rails are not necessarily square to the long edge.  Leave a little gap when joining and align a known straight edge along the non splinter guard side when tightening.  The little screws with the slotted head were put there for a reason - to offer a little protection against over tightening.  You could replace them with has type but then be careful not to dimple the rail.

Peter

Yea, dimpling is a real possibility with this system as is, there's gotta be a better way to connect rails. Do they sell longer bars with more set screws to add more connection points?

No longer connectors. Probably wouldn't be hard to make though? If you have the 3000 rail I don't imagine you will need to join too often.

Seth

 

[Corwin]

Yea, dimpling is a real possibility with this system as is, there's gotta be a better way to connect rails. Do they sell longer bars with more set screws to add more connection points?

Maybe something like what was discussed in this thread:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/guide-rail-connector-issues/

 

[Paul G]

The end of the guide rails are not necessarily square to the long edge.  Leave a little gap when joining and align a known straight edge along the non splinter guard side when tightening.  The little screws with the slotted head were put there for a reason - to offer a little protection against over tightening.  You could replace them with has type but then be careful not to dimple the rail.

Peter

Yea, dimpling is a real possibility with this system as is, there's gotta be a better way to connect rails. Do they sell longer bars with more set screws to add more connection points?

No longer connectors. Probably wouldn't be hard to make though? If you have the 3000 rail I don't imagine you will need to join too often.

Seth

Yea, I'm considering making something new and improved, it's sort of the Achilles Heel of the entire system IMO

It's funny, I got the 118" to avoid connections and here I am needing something longer, damn that Murphy's Law  [laughing]

 

[Paul G]

Yea, dimpling is a real possibility with this system as is, there's gotta be a better way to connect rails. Do they sell longer bars with more set screws to add more connection points?

Maybe something like what was discussed in this thread:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/guide-rail-connector-issues/

Awesome, thanks!!

 

[ccarrolladams]

Paul,

Not that size matters in woodworking, but some of us do own the 5000mm guide rail.

In my custom cabinet shop my primary material for cases is 4' x 10' prefinished Maple 19mm plywood. I only use guide rails and TS55s because I need odd angles. Going the long way, a 3000mm rail is not long enough, so rather than couple rails I bought the 5M rail.

 

[Paul G]

Paul,

Not that size matters in woodworking, but some of us do own the 5000mm guide rail.

In my custom cabinet shop my primary material for cases is 4' x 10' prefinished Maple 19mm plywood. I only use guide rails and TS55s because I need odd angles. Going the long way, a 3000mm rail is not long enough, so rather than couple rails I bought the 5M rail.

Yea, if I was often working with 10' ply that would be the way to go, but at over 16' I'm not sure where I'd even put it right now. Definitely making a spot for that big boy in the future shop though.