Is the Kapex strong enough for 8/4 hard Maple or White Oak

[aaduranh]

Hi,
I am thinking about buying a Kapex REB.  I have a had a Dewalt DWS780 a Milwaukee and Bosch Glide.
I mostly work with Walnut, maple and White Oak, 4/4, 6/4 and 8/4. I have worked only once or twice with pine in the last 4 years!
I haven't had any trouble cutting 8/4 maple or white oak with any  of the saws i mentioned.
Is the Kapex strong enough?

Thank you very much!
Alex

 

[Birdhunter]

If I am cutting thick wood with my Kapex, I take one pass about 1/2 way through followed by a cut all the way through. My cutting speed is governed by what I hear from the saw's motor. If the saw sounds like it is laboring, I slow the cut.

I also moderate the cut based on the dust collection. A slower cut allows more dust to be sucked up than a fast cut.

I keep a very sharp blade in the saw at all times.

 

[xedos]

FWIW , Festool early on in the burnt motor debacle; claimed that the reason was people were cutting too thin material.  Hinting that it was really designed for cutting big thick stuff. 

Given their handling of the whole issue, I don't know if that is fact or was just damage control. Clearly the motor ended up being the issue, and maybe they fixed it. But the jury is still out.

Curious why you're shopping kapex having those other saws ?  Milwaukee's 12" saw is way powerful and has really good dust collection. Not without faults, chiefly it weighs as much as a freight train.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I’ve cut a lot of 6 x 2 Brazilian mahogany on the Kapex, this is the real dense hard type, it has a shine to it.
I don’t know how this compares to the maple you’re talking about, as I know maple and white oak are very hard but, this mahogany is extremely hard. It gives the chisels and hand saws a hard time but, the Kapex deals with it admirably. I do avoid the few knots I come across though, as they’re like granite! 

 

[Cheese]

I've also cut a lot of 6" x 1 1/2" Brazilian cherry (Jatoba) for flooring projects. When cutting at 45º the wood is so dense that it will always burn to some degree.  The older Kapex with a new/fresh/clean Festool blade handles it well.  For a comparison, the hard maple has a Janka number of 1450 while the Jatoba has a number of 2690.

 

[TXFIVEO]

I have the KAPEX REB and regularly cut 8/4 Maple and White Oak without any issues in one pass. 

 

[JayStPeter]

I have the old Kapex.  It doesn't feel or sound as powerful as the Bosch Glide it replaced, but I have used it to knock down some 8/4 Maple, Walnut, and Sapele and it has worked great.

 

[zapdafish]

I have cut 8/4 and thicker white oak, red oak, and ash with my kapex with the blade that came with it and have had no problems. I'm a hobbyiest so it gets heavy use only a few times a year.

 

[ChuckS]

Got to pile on here [big grin]...5 yrs old Kapex with 8/4 oak, maple and sapele. If I can find images, I'll post them. The Kapex stock blade did an amazing job on them.

 

[Thompmd]

I’m watching w/interest as I just bought a Kapex and plan to mostly cut Kiln Dried Hardwood , mostly 2-2.5” Walnut. Are you guys using the stock blade?

 

[Birdhunter]

Never used any other blade than the stock blade. Very happy with it.

 

[Sanderxpander]

I know some people baby theirs because the US/110V motors had some trouble but disregarding that, I would call the Kapex capable of cutting basically anything the competition can. Power shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I use the standard blade too. The Kapex has a weird sounding motor, it’s nothing like the sound of any other saws I own or have used but, it is plenty powerful enough. I’ve got used to the motor sound now.

 

[ChuckS]

Found an image of the kind of 8/4 maple stock that was cut with no struggling using the Kapex and stock blade. One pass...but I'd do two if risk of burn mark is to be eliminated. The second pass is a skim cut.

 

[kevinculle]

I wrapped the frame of my deck with 5/4x10 Ipe which my Kapex mitered without breaking a sweat.  I have also cut 3x8 hard maple without issues.

 

[aaduranh]

Thanks for all your answers.
I don't know if that happens to you. I cannot wear any protection  glasses. I have tried at least 7 different glasses. There are only two that work for me.  I cannot wear a tool apron  or anything on my belt. i don't know why. I know it is weird. I cannot put my measure tape on my belt. i have several tapes everywhere.
It is the same for me about the miter Saw. I liked the  Dewal DWS780. I missed some features of the Dewalt when I had the Milwaukee. . Then I bought the Glide. Dust collection is just atrocious. The Milwaukee was better than both Dewalt and Bosch.
I heard many good things about the Kapex. This may be the right saw for me.  I know it is a expensive way to do things this way.
Isn't it more pleasant to have the right tool for you?

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I must admit, I don’t wear aprons or overalls, and have started wearing ear defenders albeit too late, as I have had tinnitus for many years now, almost certainly as a consequence.
I don’t often wear protective glasses, as I usually have my reading specs on. I always wear goggles when grinding etc, and dust masks when needed.
I make sure anybody that works for me, wears any necessary protection though.

If protective glasses are causing you issues, you could try a lightweight visor, I know lots of trades find them more comfortable.

Safety first always.

 

[Birdhunter]

As a long time user of a Kapex, I think the key to long motor life is to listen to the saw. If it sounds like it is laboring, ease off the cut speed and/or depth. More often than not, a saw that sounds like it is laboring can be on the verge of a pinch induced kick back. When my Kapex sounds like it isn't having fun. I back out of the cut and figure out what's wrong.

 

[Cheese]

I echo what Birdhunter says...listen to the saw. Sometimes when cutting wide 2x materials I'll notice a change in the sound of the Kapex and will immediately remove it from the kerf. Upon further examination I'll notice that the kerf started to close down because of internal stresses in the lumber.

 

[ChuckS]

In addition to setting the right motor speed (1-6 ), it is also important to use the appropriate sliding speed. If you often get burn mark on thick/wide stock, check on those two parameters. Experience can't be replaced by a better motor or better saw.