Is this router setup safe?

[ChicagoNewGuy]

Hi Everyone,
I am pretty new to using a Router, I've done a few rabbets and dadoes and I've used a hole drilling template to drill some shelf holes.  Today I'm going to attempt to make some shaker style doors.  I have tongue and groove bit but I do not have a Router Table, I'm trying to do this with my handheld OF1400.

Below are some pictures of a setup to do a test cut of the tongue.  I'm concerned about the collet being so close to the dust shroud.  Is this setup okay?  Should I skip dust collection?  Is this technique insane?  Do i have to have a Router Table for this procedure?

Thanks everyone, this is my 2nd question on this site and I truly appreciate the time everyone takes to help me out and make sure I don't do anything stupid.

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[ScotF]

I cannot answer your question on the dust shroud as I do not own a 1400, but if you are uncomfortable with the set-up and procedure then I would probably opt for a different way to accomplish the task.  For the tongue I would probably use a rabbet bit and cut each side of the board and then cut the groove to fit -- actually I would reverse the order and cut the grooves first and then the rabbet so that you could get a perfect fit and sneak up on the cut.  If you attempt to cut the top and bottom of the tongue, you are removing a lot of material.  I have a 2200 and have swung raised panel bits handlheld without an issue, but this router is built with that in mind.

Scot 

 

[windmill man]

As long as the collet is not touching the plastic dust shroud , all is good. Have fun oh and set up looks fine. [smile]

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I use a setup like that routinely.  Never had a safety issue.  Just be sure you are running the router in the correct direction or it will want to jump.  And, of course, clamp everything down securely.

But, as the advice above suggested, if it doesn't feel safe to you, then find another way.

A router table can do this or a table saw.

 

[davee]

I don't see any problem with the collet being next to the dust shroud other than potential user error.  I've inadvertantly raised the head and gone through the dust shroud before.  I love my 1400 but believe the dust collection is a bit of an afterthought.

 

[jmbfestool]

Nothing wrong with the collet being to close to the dust collection shroud.  Just give the router a spin with your hand to see if it is hitting (make sure the router isn't plugged in) if not then when you start the router up it won't cause any damage.   The worst case you just shatter the dust shroud which is replaceable.

Jmb

 

[mouppe]

The dangerous part of the operation is nothing to do with the dust shroud. Respectfully, the way you have set this cut up is very unsafe.

There are two main dangers.

First, it is the way you have to feed the router in to the timber when routing the ends of the rails in particular. Doing this with a handheld router can be very dangerous, which is why most rail and stile bits carry warnings such as "Use only in a router table." No problem, you can do this with a handheld router but you need to set the cut up properly.

When you start the routing, the router may catch the side of the timber and run away from you because of a climb cut. Starting a router on a corner is amongst the most dangerous router operations potentially. It's particularly dangerous because the router base will only be supported on one corner (although you have set up a support opposite). Similarly when you come to the end of the cut, the router base will again lose most of its support, the router could tilt and jump out of control.

The safest way to perform this cut is to sandwich the rail end in between two scrap pieces of wood and then you can feed the router in carefully and exit safely. The router will be well supported all the way, and as a bonus, you will not get tearout at the end of your cut.

Second, you don't need to balance the router with a facing piece of wood as in your picture. I never like to do this as you are covering the safest exit route for the router, and if the router jumps or you need to move it away, you have something blocking your way. Certainly you shouldn't have a router support so close to your bit where it could get trapped between the two pieces of wood.

You can definitely make this cut but take care.

 

[ajones]

what you want to do would be best performed on a router table that would be the by far the best way, a speltch block should be used on the exit side of the cut to prevent tear out on the work piece

 

[promhandicam]

There is no way that I would try to do what you are doing hand held. If you can afford a Festool Router then I'm sure that you can also afford a router table or failing that make one. Trying to make doors with a hand held router is madness (IMHO) That said if you do want to do it hand held just make sure that you let your wife or partner know your log in details for FOG so they can sell off all your tools when, sooner or later you loose your fingers.

 

[jmbfestool]

There is no way that I would try to do what you are doing hand held. If you can afford a Festool Router then I'm sure that you can also afford a router table or failing that make one. Trying to make doors with a hand held router is madness (IMHO) That said if you do want to do it hand held just make sure that you let your wife or partner know your log in details for FOG so they can sell off all your tools when, sooner or later you loose your fingers.

There is no way that I would try to do what you are doing hand held. If you can afford a Festool Router then I'm sure that you can also afford a router table or failing that make one. Trying to make doors with a hand held router is madness (IMHO) That said if you do want to do it hand held just make sure that you let your wife or partner know your log in details for FOG so they can sell off all your tools when, sooner or later you loose your fingers.

I think your over reacting mate.

As long as he supports and clamps his pieces correctly its perfectly fine doing it hand held.  

If it was so dangerous they wouldnt sell router cutters for use in hand held routers.   Like Titman the cutters will say for use in a router table or in a hand held.

Chicagonewguy: I didn't comment about your setup method my self in my previous post only because I didn't want to go into detail how to be sure it's safe doing it hand held. So I just left it at the collect.  

I don't think your setup is correct though.  
Routering the ends
I would fix a piece of timber on your table which is of the same thickness (just slightly less) which will help keep your work piece in position but also stops your piece from speltching.  Then using a clamp or wedge or toggle clamp to hold your work piece then you can hold your router with two hands and router the ends of your timber or what Richard leon said.

Routering the edge face
I would again have a piece of timber fixed to push your timber up to which is of same thickness or slightly less but also have a piece of timber fixed at the end this is to stop your piece your working on from sliding along as you router it.

Routering the panel
Easiest way is the just over hang one edge of your work piece and clamp it then router a panel mould and then turn it till you have done all 4 sides.   It's best if you have a larger base support for this.

You can make it all a lot more productive with jigs or better setups but if you just wanna quickly do it hand held just for couple doors their is no need to spend a lot of time to make stuff.   A router table is the best way to do this you gotta spend more money you might not want to spend.

Jmb
Jmb

 

[Deansocial]

Only dangerous part i see i the possibility of catching your support taking you by suprise. Ive use a rail and stle bit without a router table before just fine but the o1400 is a bit small for those bits really.

 

[Stone Message]

I have only just discovered this post - I hope you, Chicago chap, are still in one piece!

You sound as though you are a bit of a router novice and given the other advice you should perhaps consider getting a router table. You can make a router table if money is an issue.

Let us know how you get (or have got) on.

Peter

 

[jmbfestool]

Only dangerous part i see i the possibility of catching your support taking you by suprise. Ive use a rail and stle bit without a router table before just fine but the o1400 is a bit small for those bits really.

Totally agree.    Only thing what will happen is you  s h i t  your pants nothing more and your work piece gets damaged.  

Like I said just make sure your work piece your routing is clamped well and you will learn from then on what happens if you do something wrong.  As long as you have two hands on the router which you will have if you have secured your piece your working on then nothing serious is going to happen.  

Hey!   windmill man is a long time experienced carpenter and he said the setup was fine! Just incase your thinking I am a young lad who disregards health and safety what does he know!  Their is NO need for a router table for what your doing! Its just a luxury

JMB

 

[promhandicam]

Today I'm going to attempt to make some shaker style doors. 

Maybe it is because I have a workshop and so have no need to try and do this on site, but I still maintain that if someone wants to 'attempt to make some shaker doors' then the correct setup is to use a router in a router table where the cutter can be properly guarded, chip extraction done through the fence and the timber held in place with featherboards. This will be a much quicker and safer method especially if you are wanting to produce doors where the stiles on adjacent doors are made from one piece of timber so that the grain matches as one mistake could result in having to re machine all of the rails so that they are all matching grain. I'm not denying that it isn't possible to do this hand held, but particularly machining the tongues on the ends of the rails has to be much easier on a router table. The OP is clearly not an experienced joiner or cabinet maker and so I personally think it best to advise of the safest method of performing this task.

 

[BUTTER]

How about you take an extra hour and figure out mounting your router in the workable?
Maybe drop $30 on a Rousseau plate?
Before I read a dedicated setup, I took a piece of 1/4" plexiglas and mounted a router base to it, and clamped the whole thing down.  (that is, you don't need anthing fancy.)

You will have SO MUCH more control of both the tool and the workpiece  if you do, and will work faster to boot.

Example: you're pushing your router along, into the workpiece, using the bearing (which you can't see below the tool,) and what happens at the end of that piece? Your router wants to keep cutting around the corner of the board, into the long grain. Did you make your rail pieces extra wide to accommodate?

If the router is securely mounted, you control the workpiece, and you control the cut.