I have just started in woodworking and have built a couple of cabinets for my garage, but now would like to add some drawers to our master closet. There already is a melamine built-in with 32mm holes, and I would add drawers. I feel pretty comfortable building the boxes, but would like to make sure the drawer fronts are attached flawlessly. What jig do you recommend for that purpose? Many thanks.
jig to attach face to cabinet drawers
- Thread starter koenbro
- Start date
I'm not familiar with any jigs but I've used this sort of screw combined with a 5/16" holes drilled in the drawer box. I think it allows about 3/16" of adjustment. The easiest way I've thought of to use these is by pre-drilling two little holes to stick a nail through and mark the back of the drawer front. Then enlarge the holes with 5/16" spade bit drilling from the inside out. Drill pilot holes for the screws in the drawer face and install the screws. This is pretty easy when the base cabinets have no top except a web frame but other situations may be awkward.
Another option is 8mm drawer front adjusters. You would need a pair of marking centers too and an 8mm forstner bit. The advantage of them is you can just push the drawer face against the drawer box while it's in the cabinet. You can start at the bottom and use spacers to align the drawer faces, then stand back and tweak them 'til they look perfect.
Be warned those prices may be kind of silly. You can get these things cheaper from cabinet hardware suppliers.
Another option is 8mm drawer front adjusters. You would need a pair of marking centers too and an 8mm forstner bit. The advantage of them is you can just push the drawer face against the drawer box while it's in the cabinet. You can start at the bottom and use spacers to align the drawer faces, then stand back and tweak them 'til they look perfect.
Be warned those prices may be kind of silly. You can get these things cheaper from cabinet hardware suppliers.
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When I have made drawers like this I have cut the smart face piece about 1 mm smaller all round. I then fit the drawer fronts before putting the counter top on. This allows access to the top drawer from above.
Work from the bottom drawer one drawer at a time. Put a drawer box in place. Push the drawer front against it and use shims underneath and on each side to centre it. then put in two or four screws from the back to hold it in place. Now move on to the next drawer above.
Peter
Work from the bottom drawer one drawer at a time. Put a drawer box in place. Push the drawer front against it and use shims underneath and on each side to centre it. then put in two or four screws from the back to hold it in place. Now move on to the next drawer above.
Peter
butzla
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koenbro said:
+1 on Iwoirhaye's suggestion of the 8mm drawer adjusters. It's a no brainer. Like he said, don't forget to buy the templates (you'll need 2 ea) and the 20mm forstner bit. They are at the bottom of the Amazon link he provided.
If you're really interested in learning how to build cabinets, I highly recommend Jim Tolpin's Bulding Traditional Kitchen Cabinets. He highlights the use of these adjusters plus skads of more helpful tips and jigs.
tjbnwi
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I use a couple of pieces of 3M mounting tape.
Place tape on drawer box
Set face in position
Press face onto tape
Carefully open drawer
Install screws from behind.
I use the Fastcap PowerHead 1-1/8" screws
https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=46251&idcategory=0
The new Fastcap clamps look interesting.
Tom
Place tape on drawer box
Set face in position
Press face onto tape
Carefully open drawer
Install screws from behind.
I use the Fastcap PowerHead 1-1/8" screws
https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=46251&idcategory=0
The new Fastcap clamps look interesting.
Tom
Cheese
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tjbnwi said:
I think you meant to use this link Tom...the link you used points to only 2 1/2" & 3" long screws.
http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=57675&idcategory=0
Naildrivingman
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- Apr 8, 2017
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- 509
I second the double sided tape. If you get it wrong, grab some acetone, remove the tape and residue and start over. Personally I wouldn't buy any clamps, jigs, tools that I can't absorb into the cost of the job or use enough to justify cost of tool.
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