Jigsaw visibility

ironJosh

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Sep 2, 2012
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G'day all,

Got a TRION ps 300 the other day (needed the 720w power)

What a fantastic jigsaw. Never used one better.  My only problem is:

I can't see the pencil marks on the workpiece if the splinterguard and dust shroud are on.  I did only try without the dust extraction connected- does that make all the difference?  At the moment I'm running it without either the splinterguard or the dust shroud.

I'm a flooring installer and finisher, and use it mostly on laminate, engineered and solid tongue and groove floors.

Any ideas are helpful  [smile]
 
giday and welcome.
i have the same problem with my trion.
it is imposable to see the blade with the schroud on.

there are two little plastic pieces sticking out of the schroud for showing you where the blade is.
the problem is that those points are 3/4" infront of the blade.
it is not too much of a problem with just the splinter guard on as you can use the slot to see the blade location.

the only saving grace is that you dont need it to be 100% on the line. 90% will do for flooring as it will be covered
 
Dito to above.
I have been hoping for CMS table to become available WITH the jigsaw plate. 
(the powers that be have so decreed that shall not be [censored])
It would have made my Trion so much more useful
Tinker
 
Have you tried cutting the "european way"? Cutting with the saw upside down below the material, gives you the best visibility and no chips on the top side (depends on the material though)
 
Same here.

I can't use the Trion for exact cuts on the line.
So i mounted it in the CMS-plate, where i can cut rather exactly now, because the blade can be seen on the line.
The plate is installed in an old router-table, that i don't use otherwise.
Works very well.

Many carpenters are able to use the jigsaw upside down (downside up), so they have the same effect as with the plate mounted saw.
 
Over 65 years ago, when hand-held electric jig saws first were sold in the USA, I bought one. In those days in scenic construction for stage and movies, scroll work was routine. Before the jig saws we used a very heavy tool called a "Cut Awl" which drove a needle down through the sheet material. That was swell, so long as you had a flat sacrificial surface to support the work and the Cut All, which weighed about 50 pounds. The needle extended well below the motor and the hole in the base was fairl large. With the Cut Awl if you positioned your head in just the right way you could follow the lines drawn on the work while seeing the needle.

Those early jig saws completely blocked the view of the blade and the line on the work. A friend of mine, who was considered the leading Cut Awl specialist in the NYC scenic industry, showed me how he used jig saws from under the work. This gives a fine view of the blade and line.

However, when the jig saw is used under the work, that work material needs to be clamped very well extending off the side of a table or workbench. Normally the weight of the jig saw is supported by one hand on the knob handle in-line with the blade. The other hand controls rotation of the jig saw with light guiding pressure on the barrel of the saw. For safety sake it is important that both hands be on the jig saw while the power is on.
 
I use my Bosch jig saw from below. No way you can't see the blade. Cleaner cut on the finished surface also.

Tom
 
Along with the suggestions to cut below rather than on top I think the more time you spend working with tool the easier it will be to cut accurately. With the attachments it is a different saw to use than the Bosch.
I have found that with the splinter guard on I can cut to a line using the point of the splinter guard as reference. This definitely different than reding on the blade but it works as well if the blade is set up properly.
I usually take the dust Shroud off but leave the vacum on.
Tim
 
I Dremeled a "sight port" on each side of the dust shroud so I can see the blade and cut marks.  I also mounted a small gooseneck LED light configured to shine directly where the blade meets pencil line.  These two modifications made the saw very usable for my purposes as opposed to worthless otherwise.

I'm excited at the prospects of the 420!
 
Tinker said:
Dito to above.
I have been hoping for CMS table to become available WITH the jigsaw plate. 

I've got the CMS plate for my Carvex and you can barely see the line from above since there is no dust extraction from above the material and the line gets very quickly covered.

With a lot of huffing and puffing you can see the line.
 
I only get the time to work in my Wood Shop in the winter.  I need exercise and huffing and puffing would probably be good for me .  8)
With the shroud, I can't see even close to the line or blade with tool on top. ???

Tinker
 
Each of us has a different experience.

Until I purchased my Trion PS300 circa 2007, every jigsaw I had owned since the late 1940s lacked any dust collection. Still, in all those years dust accumulating on the top of the work while I am using my jigsaw from underneath has never obscured the line enough to cause me a problem.

I was delighted that my Trion sucks a lot of dust below the work, so my vision of the line is better than with previous jigsaws. Of course I do buy blades designed to cut towards the saw.
 
I have not tried 'freehanding' from underneath with my Trion.  I have tried with my old Milwaukee 1/4 sheet but it just vibrated so much, even with clamps, I never tried again.  does it make any difference if the saw is Barrel or Top Handle? (if upside down, i guess it would be Bottom Handle  8)).  my Trion is barrel grip.
Tinker
 
Tinker said:
I have not tried 'freehanding' from underneath with my Trion.  I have tried with my old Milwaukee 1/4 sheet but it just vibrated so much, even with clamps, I never tried again.  does it make any difference if the saw is Barrel or Top Handle? (if upside down, i guess it would be Bottom Handle  8)).  my Trion is barrel grip.
Tinker

Tinker,

Over the years I do not remember ever owning a handle-grip jigsaw. My Trion PS300 has a classic barrel-grip. What is important when using the jigsaw underneath the work is that there be a knob in-line with the blade. One hand supports the weight of the jigsaw as that knob rests on the palm. You are not gripping that knob, because the jigsaw must be free to pivot. The direction of the blade is controlled by the other hand which is lightly gripping the barrel at the far end, mostly on the extraction hose and power cord.

My experience has been it is easier to stand so the cut is towards me. I find less chatter when the saw is running at a relatively low speed.
 
Thanks CCA, I'll give it a try in a few weeks.  right now, i am finding difficulties with standing.  walking isn't too bad as long as I'm careful.  I will need to be real careful with holding the tool UP against the wood and guiding it.  i sort of need one hand for bracing tool and one hand to brace ME.  Putting resistance against both hands puts extra pressure right where i really don't need it.  I'll figure something out. Maybe sitting and bracing the tool against my leg for up pressure. 
Tinker

 
I'm getting the impression that some (though likely not all) of you should be using a real scroll saw rather than a jig saw.

It limits the size of the workpiece somewhat, but also eliminates all of these line-of-sight issues completely.
 
I have given the scroll saw idea some thought.  the problem there is that one more floor mounted toy and i will need to build a new shop.  [scratch chin]

I already have the jigsaw.  Of course I could use the systainer for a stool to sit on while using the scroll saw 8)
Tinker
 
Can someone post a link to that thread where a fella mounted a Festool Jig upside down in a systainer?
Can't find it.
That is about as close as I'm going to come to a bandsaw in my own shop...for some time sadly.

Christopher
 
Christopher Robinson said:
Can someone post a link to that thread where a fella mounted a Festool Jig upside down in a systainer?
Can't find it.
That is about as close as I'm going to come to a bandsaw in my own shop...for some time sadly.

Christopher

Honestly I don't remember that thread, but if it is as you just described it might have been deleted.  Festool will accept criticism here about their products but when it comes to threads, posts, or images about potentially unsafe operations that is a different matter and moderation does happen.

Peter
 
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