joining glue

[DanielOB]

I have to switch to epoxy-glue 100% for joining wooden furniture and cabinets too.

Is Epoxy-glue by Gorilla and LaPage, found in HomeDepot, permanently resistant (no decay with time) to environment with moisture in air c.50%

Thanks

 

[grbmds]

What's the reason for switching to his type of glue? Titebond III is waterproof. Gorilla polyurethane glue is also waterproof. Unless thers is some good reason to go with epoxy I'm not sure why you would.

 

[Roseland]

In a test of glues in Fine Woodworking a few years back epoxy did not fare well.

I use Titebond III for almost all general woodworking, and Cascamite for anything structural.

Andrew

 

[Birdhunter]

I researching glue for some Ipe benches, I found a Fine Woodworking article testing different types of glue for wood joints. Gorilla Glue scored last even behind hot hide glue. Titebond III was scored at the very top even higher than two-part epoxy.

I ended up using epoxy on the Ipe instead of Titebond based on drying time. The epoxy set hard in 8 hours while the Titebond was still gooey after setting overnight.

If you decide to use Gorilla Glue, be sure to wear plastic gloves as the stuff will stain your fingers brown. Also, the glue tends to bubble out of the joint. After it hardens about 1/2 way, you can slice off the excess with a razor blade.

 

[DanielOB]

The reason i want to switch to Epoxy is the joint strength (Epoxy strength is 3200 psi = 20 N/mm2)

It is not Gorila old glue that foams. Gorila makes now and Epoxy glue (2 comps). Gorila is a brand name only.

It is not known to me that any glue is stronger than Epoxy, but never know. I beleive you guys.

Any more info for Titebond-iii ?

 

[Roseland]

http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_glues/Ultimate_Wood_Glue.aspx

Stronger than epoxy!

Andrew

 

[DanielOB]

this make me re-think about "use Epoxy for all joints".

I use 1/4" router bit for mortise and 6 mm tenons by Festool. In this case i think Epoxy is the best (to fill the gap). [unsure]

 

[Roseland]

And:
http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/LiteraturePDFs/FF683_GlueGuideTB.sflb.ashx

Andrew

 

[Mickfb]

Only time cascamite failed on me was joining Iroko to turn for posts. Cleaned faces of Iroko with white spirit and scored the jointing faces, problem solved. Use Titebond at home and type 526 at work and never had problems with them.

 

[Roseland]

this make me re-think about "use Epoxy for all joints".

I use 1/4" router bit for mortise and 6 mm tenons by Festool. In this case i think Epoxy is the best (to fill the gap). [unsure]

I think you need a Domino!

A ;-)

 

[jacko9]

IMHO .014" gap for a M&T joint is way too much for a M&T joint.  I also use Titrebond III and Birdhunter I am puzzled as to why your Titebond joint was still gooey after an hour or more my squeeze out from joints still hardens in a few hours?

Jack

 

[grbmds]

this make me re-think about "use Epoxy for all joints".

I use 1/4" router bit for mortise and 6 mm tenons by Festool. In this case i think Epoxy is the best (to fill the gap). [unsure]

Something to consider is that, when you don't get a good fit with a tenon and mortise, you lose strength period. Filling the gap isn't the answer. A different technique is the answer. There are so many ways to make mortise and tenon joints besides a Domino, I'd do a little research. The tenon should always fit the mortise so contact is made on essentially the whole tenon or almost all. I can see why you want to use epoxy. Titebond III won't be a good choice if the tenons are too loose in the mortise.

 

[Birdhunter]

Here is the blurb from Titebond's website.....

"Where does the moisture that fuels the reaction come from?
Moisture from the air and substrate fuel the reaction. The amount of moisture may affect the set time and cure time of the adhesive."

Moisture is what cures Titebond. Ipe is an extremely dense and dry wood, thus very little moisture to cure the Titebond. The squeeze out has access to moisture from the air so it would harden.

 

[DanielOB]

I think that epoxy is still stronger than titebond iii, just there are many things that can go wrong, e.g. Wrong mix, ..
The use of epoxy is not as easy as water base glue. The best use is when two surfaces does not match perfectly, like gap, waves, long grain to short grain joint, ... It is the only glue that works equally over oiled surfaces. Epensive.
TiteB can be good enough but surfaces must be in touch 99 % with waviness in range of 1/2000 in before clamp. Any gap and bang. It does not has thickness to fill gaps.

 

[elfick]

Not to thread-jack, but somewhat tangentially related...
What would be the best adhesive for laminating sheets of MDF?

 

[wrightwoodwork]

I'm not sure, the one thing I would properly do is give the mdf a light sand with 60 grit to roughly up the surface so the glue gets a better key

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Epoxy is a generic name for a wide range of formulations.  The stuff you get at Home Depot may fill gaps, but that filled gap will not be structurally strong.  You still need a good snug fit.  I think there are Architectural Epoxies that can fill a gap and provide structural strength.  Most, but not all epoxies are water-proof, but what you are joing with epoxy probably isn't.  If you are looking at an outdoors application, be aware that most epoxies are very vulnerable to UV light.  There are UV blockers you can mix with the epoxy.

I laminate a lot of MDF for bending forms.  Always used plain old Titebond, never failed.  A light coat will do, clean up excess and squeeze out promptly as too much water will swell MDF.  BTW, I glue and screw so I don't have to leave it clamped.  And, of course, if you need to cut the laminate later, avoid putting screws where you will cut - learned that the hard way. [embarassed]

 

[sancho57]

Only time cascamite failed on me was joining Iroko to turn for posts. Cleaned faces of Iroko with white spirit and scored the jointing faces, problem solved. Use Titebond at home and type 526 at work and never had problems with them.

I got some cascamite. Havent used it yet.  A good friend of mine (yea I got 1) said that with cascamite you could mix in some wood dust and it will fill holes, be stainable kinda like a filler.

But In the states I like Roo glue

 

[DanielOB]

this make me re-think about "use Epoxy for all joints".

I use 1/4" router bit for mortise and 6 mm tenons by Festool. In this case i think Epoxy is the best (to fill the gap). [unsure]

Something to consider is that, when you don't get a good fit with a tenon and mortise, you lose strength period. Filling the gap isn't the answer. A different technique is the answer. There are so many ways to make mortise and tenon joints besides a Domino, I'd do a little research. The tenon should always fit the mortise so contact is made on essentially the whole tenon or almost all. I can see why you want to use epoxy. Titebond III won't be a good choice if the tenons are too loose in the mortise.

if the gap is filled with epoxy and let it cure, is not that cured epoxy stronger than wood?

 

[jacko9]

this make me re-think about "use Epoxy for all joints".

I use 1/4" router bit for mortise and 6 mm tenons by Festool. In this case i think Epoxy is the best (to fill the gap). [unsure]

Something to consider is that, when you don't get a good fit with a tenon and mortise, you lose strength period. Filling the gap isn't the answer. A different technique is the answer. There are so many ways to make mortise and tenon joints besides a Domino, I'd do a little research. The tenon should always fit the mortise so contact is made on essentially the whole tenon or almost all. I can see why you want to use epoxy. Titebond III won't be a good choice if the tenons are too loose in the mortise.

if the gap is filled with epoxy and let it cure, is not that cured epoxy stronger than wood?

That depends on the strength of the wood in question but, generally the wood is stronger than epoxy by itself.

Jack