Jointing 250mm skirting

andyman

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May 23, 2012
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I've got a load of 250mm mr mdf skirting 3m long that will req joining on long runs.
The question has anyone ever butt jointed with biscuits or domino?
I've always mitred glued and pinned when doing long runs
 
How much time would you be saving tho? Can you make the joint mad tight with dominos? I mean it would be hard to tap the joint tight since the skirting is 3m long. At least with mitres you can line it up right away, glue, pins and off ya go
 
galwaydude18 said:
I'd keep mitering, gluing and pinning as usual. Nothing worse than butt joints in skirting
I agree, plus the traditional way should allow for a bit of movement, domino's sound like a lot of unnecessary work to me.
 
I never mitre.  If you want to see a joint then mitre away.

If you dont want to see the joints then butt joints are the way forward.

If its small skirting i just butt joint and use PU construct.  Once sanded you wont see the joint

If its tall skirting like the ones you will be fitting i stick a couple of dominos in it

I dont know why people still do mitres for straight joints.

Its a pain in the arse for one and it does not make for a better joint.

 
jmbfestool said:
I never mitre.  If you want to see a joint then mitre away.

If you dont want to see the joints then butt joints are the way forward.

If its small skirting i just butt joint and use PU construct.  Once sanded you wont see the joint

If its tall skirting like the ones you will be fitting i stick a couple of dominos in it

I dont know why people still do mitres for straight joints.

Its a pain in the arse for one and it does not make for a better joint.

The reasons for the mitre include:

1) a diagonal cut creates more surface area for glue.

2) cutting through the grain at an angle in certain species creates a smoother cut will less coarse open pores in the surface so less chance of the glue being sucked up into the grain and starving the joint.

3) you can nail through a diagonal joint to pin the join, which you can't do with a straight cut.

 
I'm with Jim B. I've installed miles of large or tall base using butt joints and biscuits. The alternative I believe you are referring to is what we call a scarf joint. Problem I find or tell my guys, you need to land it on a stud. Plus half the time, your scarf joint ends up slightly proud( long)requiring sanding or worse.
Of course, with a stain grade joint, I'd be more apt to go with the scarf joint.
With paint grade, you can biscuit or domino both pieces at your chop saw, and with a longer piece or two u can afford to cut them slightly longer and snap it all intonolace. Super tight joint!
 
Locks14 said:
jmbfestool said:
I never mitre.  If you want to see a joint then mitre away.

If you dont want to see the joints then butt joints are the way forward.

If its small skirting i just butt joint and use PU construct.  Once sanded you wont see the joint

If its tall skirting like the ones you will be fitting i stick a couple of dominos in it

I dont know why people still do mitres for straight joints.

Its a pain in the arse for one and it does not make for a better joint.

The reasons for the mitre include:

1) a diagonal cut creates more surface area for glue.

2) cutting through the grain at an angle in certain species creates a smoother cut will less coarse open pores in the surface so less chance of the glue being sucked up into the grain and starving the joint.

3) you can nail through a diagonal joint to pin the join, which you can't do with a straight cut.

I know full well all the reasons why a mitre is used. I was told this when i was an apprentice.
Over the years I have changed and decided mitering skirting is tottally pointless.
Its much harder to make a seamless joint

1) increase in glue area is so small i dont consider it a benefit
 
2) fine, medium... Course.... Come on...the cuts with a new blade and steady cutting are pretty much the same straight or angled...again the difference is so tiny its not considered a benefit.  Although im sure a course cut will give the glue a better chance bonding the joints sooo I would say its a disadvantage.  I dont worry about glue starvation because I buy 6 large tubs of glue at a time and im not afraid to use it.  Plus on jobs i tend to use different types of glue which are not so prone to starvation

2) Being able to pin is the only benefit a mitre has over a straighr cut.
 
JNComplete said:
I'm with Jim B. I've installed miles of large or tall base using butt joints and biscuits. The alternative I believe you are referring to is what we call a scarf joint. Problem I find or tell my guys, you need to land it on a stud. Plus half the time, your scarf joint ends up slightly proud( long)requiring sanding or worse.
Of course, with a stain grade joint, I'd be more apt to go with the scarf joint.
With paint grade, you can biscuit or domino both pieces at your chop saw, and with a longer piece or two u can afford to cut them slightly longer and snap it all intonolace. Super tight joint!

You are bang on. I love it just get the joint inline and push it to the wall and feel it just pop towards the wall with plenty of pressure.  Gotta be carefull not to over do it I did crack corner of the plaster once years ago.

I found not only having your skirting slightly to long can cause a mitre joint to stick proud.

It also happens when the skirting is cupped. A butt joint hides it better and i find it easier to sand out.

Another benefit to a butt joint being able to have pressure on your skirting can make for a nice tight fit scribe in the corners.
 
Ah some good arguments for both.
I think I will give the butt joint a go and report back.
Problem I always found with mitre is that if your floors or wall are out it a pain in the butt so to speak
 
Hi, I just use a butt cut. Then on the backside use the biscut cutter to cut 3 slots then glue pound in 3 self clamping fixe's Mitering skirt boards are much more difficult to work with. I do try to match grain pattern as close as possible if stain grade. 
 
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