JSS Pro 90* Blade/Table Changes...

TomK_2 said:
ChuckS said:
You might need to re-post a full YouTube link so we can see it.

Thanks - I'm not sure why the URL function doesn't work.


Above should be the link.


Yesterday, I went to the showroom and took a look at the Jobsite Pro. Indeed, it had the same movement as shown in your video. (I forgot to check out the Compact SawStop to see if it had the same issue while there.) Is that the reason why the saw becomes out of square if you put it in the storage position? I don't know, but I think SawStop should take a proactive move and investigate it instead of sitting on its hands until there're enough complaints.

Could you approach the vendor where you bought the saw about your observation? I know my local vendor here will be very responsive if I bring a problem to them.
 
I was at Lee Valley this morning and played with the compact saw. It does not seem to have the same movement issue as the SS Jobsite.
The only thing about the compact saw that was bad was the stand. I don't know if someone put it together wrong or not but the whole saw wobbled on the stand.
 
ChuckS said:
TomK_2 said:
ChuckS said:
You might need to re-post a full YouTube link so we can see it.

Thanks - I'm not sure why the URL function doesn't work.


Above should be the link.


Yesterday, I went to the showroom and took a look at the Jobsite Pro. Indeed, it had the same movement as shown in your video. (I forgot to check out the Compact SawStop to see if it had the same issue while there.) Is that the reason why the saw becomes out of square if you put it in the storage position? I don't know, but I think SawStop should take a proactive move and investigate it instead of sitting on its hands until there're enough complaints.

Could you approach the vendor where you bought the saw about your observation? I know my local vendor here will be very responsive if I bring a problem to them.


Chuck, I don't think SS will see it as a problem unless more people call in to report it.  I wouldn't have noticed it, but happened to make the adjustment, put the saw away, then brought it out and try it again.  That's when I realized it had changed on its own.  That's when I called in to SS and a very nice guy there told me unless they get several calls on the issue, it's not and issue for them.
 
I can understand that. Many workers aren't proactive, and some company cultures may not even encourage proactive behaviors, especially when those who volunteer to bring forward a problem or suggestion end up being asked to do extra work. As you said, not every owner realizes that their PRO saw may have that kind of slack, and no reviews seem to have been aware of it either.
 
I for one have never thought to check this. My previous Ridgid saw had a very solid bevel lock and didn't budge when folding/unfolding. This does explain why I have had to calibrate 90 several times on the JSS Pro.

I did spend quite a bit of time trying to figure out how to micro adjust the blade height when I first got the saw. It is nearly impossible because the blade jumps once you apply enough pressure to get it to start moving and you can't hold back on the crank because of the slop in the crank mechanism.
 
TomK_2 said:
I for one have never thought to check this. My previous Ridgid saw had a very solid bevel lock and didn't budge when folding/unfolding. This does explain why I have had to calibrate 90 several times on the JSS Pro.

I did spend quite a bit of time trying to figure out how to micro adjust the blade height when I first got the saw. It is nearly impossible because the blade jumps once you apply enough pressure to get it to start moving and you can't hold back on the crank because of the slop in the crank mechanism.

I hear you loud and clear.  I was almost going to replace my Pro with a Festool TKS 80, however I realized that although all the trimmings are different, the works are all the same as what we already deal with, so why spend thousands more for the same problems.  All that said, I really like the saw and very badly want to find a solution.
 
So I finally took a look inside and saw what Tom saw.  There was enough play in the plastic mechanism to cause movement and the stop is not a real stop.  In order to mitigate some of the play, I placed one hook of a bungee cord around the bottom of the tilt gear-plate and the other end is wrapped around the outside of the saw base.  This put some pressure against the mechanism to take out some of the play.  Funky I know, but I had to try something.
The result was, I can flip the saw vertical, flip it back and my 90* setting stays within a one click of the fine adjust knob.  Sometimes, there's no movement at all.  So in my mind, I'm on to something.  Yes, I know that I can't use the tilt mechanism like this, however I'm hoping someone else will come up with a more elegant fix.

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darita said:
So I finally took a look inside and saw what Tom saw.  There was enough play in the plastic mechanism to cause movement and the stop is not a real stop.  In order to mitigate some of the play, I placed one hook of a bungee cord around the bottom of the tilt gear-plate and the other end is wrapped around the outside of the saw base.  This put some pressure against the mechanism to take out some of the play.  Funky I know, but I had to try something.
The result was, I can flip the saw vertical, flip it back and my 90* setting stays within a one click of the fine adjust knob.  Sometimes, there's no movement at all.  So in my mind, I'm on to something.  Yes, I know that I can't use the tilt mechanism like this, however I'm hoping someone else will come up with a more elegant fix.

I don't think there is a way to fix this without creating a way to lock the plastic rack in place. What you are doing is putting the rack in tension by pulling away from the micro adjustment. You could always add a very stiff spring to keep the rack pulled tight however I'm not sure if the adjustment knob would still work or worse maybe it would slip. Might be worth a try as it is minimally invasive and would only require one or two holes to be drilled in places you'd never see.
 
Well, this morning I went in again and found even more interesting stuff.  First, most of the trunion movement comes from the rear.  The spring back there mitigates very little of the movement.  You can demonstrate that yourself by placing the square in position and simply move the dust port from side to side and you'll see the swings in daylight at the square.  I put the bungee cord at the bottom rear of the trunion and it seems to stabilize the tilt even more than placing it in the front of the trunion.  That said, it tweeks the trunion to the side, which I'm not too sure it's ok to do. 
 
In a nutshell, the use of plastic in some key components (to reduce weight) in this saw may not be a good idea at all. Until SawStop has looked into this problem/addressed it properly where needed, I'd be very hesitant in recommending this machine to anyone..
 
ChuckS said:
In a nutshell, the use of plastic in some key components (to reduce weight) in this saw may not be a good idea at all. Until SawStop has looked into this problem/addressed it properly where needed, I'd be very hesitant in recommending this machine to anyone..

Chuck, I'd agree with that with the caveat that many folks don't care if their 90* is off, as long as it's close.  I sure wouldn't want to be building boxes or drawers that way or doing any kind of worthwhile joinery.
 
OK...until I can figure out a better way of doing this, here's my fix.  Movement of the rear trunion is a problem, but doing anything back there seems to throw off the blade alignment.  The best way I can find to stabilize the tilt is to place a clamp on the fine adjust mechanism.  It's simple, it mostly cures the movement issue and it's quickly removable if one want to do bevel cuts.  If there's a better way, please let me know.

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darita said:
OK...until I can figure out a better way of doing this, here's my fix.  Movement of the rear trunion is a problem, but doing anything back there seems to throw off the blade alignment.  The best way I can find to stabilize the tilt is to place a clamp on the fine adjust mechanism.  It's simple, it mostly cures the movement issue and it's quickly removable if one want to do bevel cuts.  If there's a better way, please let me know.

I did try this the other day and there is no doubt it does help. The problem is the plastic case is so thin that the whole thing still flexes. You also have some slop with the bolt head that is captured inside that plastic fine adjustment arm. This is why I thought reinforcing the case with 1/2 ply might help. I’ll have to look at the rear of the saw tomorrow. I hadn’t noticed that the entire blade assembly would flex that much between the front to the back.
 
Just FYI, I did try clamping on the Tilt Angle Rack using a spacer between it and the body.  For some reason, it didn't hold 90* as well as clamping the Tilt Locking Plate...may as well use their real names.
 
Another update...just spoke with SS this morning.  What I was told was that the support ticket went to the top, then was assigned to engineers for assessment.  So I can only assume that the issue is being considered.  i guess we'll see how far it gets.
 
UPDATE...I finally heard back from SS.  Engineers spent a day going through their JSS Pros and found that indeed, their saws 90* blades went out of 90* every time the saws were stored, an issue they had never considered.  They went on to say that fortunately, the fix is already built into the saw with the Fine Adjustment Knob, so one will have to readjust the 90* every time the saw is brought out for use.  If you use the saw for fine woodworking where right angle cuts are critical, then the adjustment is necessary, however if not, then it's close enough, I guess.
As for me, this is not a deal breaker.  I like many other aspects of the saw, I'll deal with it.  Since it happens with all the Pros, everyone will decide for themselves if it's worth it to them.  All that said, they thanked me for bringing this problem to their attention, as they were unaware of this occurrence.
 
Thanks for the update. For a saw that's almost 3 times in cost compared to other jobsite saws, I'd stand by my previous recommendation: " I'd be very hesitant in recommending this machine to anyone."
 
Thanks for the update from SS.
I was able to find someone who wanted my jobsite saw and I got rid of it yesterday. I kept forgetting to check 90° each time I used the saw. It really turned me off of using it.
Hopefully the next person enjoys it more.
 
Totally understand.  This is my second JSS Pro as the first one had an out of flat table that I couldn't deal with.  For those who never move the saw, the adjustment may remain fairly well.  Unfortunately, once the word gets out, this may turn a lot of folks off who want a cabinet saw replacement that is easily moveable.
 
For the record, I just picked up a CTS and I'm very impressed.  Yes it holds a 90* blade setting and it's a very solidly built saw.  If you can do without a dado blade and the increased table size, I'd recommend the CTS over the JSS Pro.
 
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