Kapex 120 REB - Worth the money?

[Bugsysiegals]

I've a Dewalt miter saw which works well but I've always wanted a sliding miter saw.  It's not critical but I've some cash to spend and wonder whether I should buy a sliding Dewalt for ~$500-600 or spend the extra $1,000-$1,500 for Kapex and wings?

 

[mkasdin]

I have a hard time wrapping my head around that (price) myself. When I need a miter saw for a job my $300 Dewalt works, so a Kapex with the great dust collection and micro adjustments would be nice, at this point in my life it’s a pipe dream. I typically sneak up on the line, and dry fit accordingly. It might take 8 cuts to get it right I also might not touch the miter saw for 4 months after I’ve finished the job. The last molding job I did the Kapex would have made things go faster. Personally I would rather upgrade my table saw to a sawstop job site saw for the $1,000. If money was not an issue I would purchase a Kapex, PID18, of1010, of1400, FS1900, domino 500 and/or 700 and a few Mafell tools I’ve been eyeing... kss300, duo doweller, mt55, etc. while we are on the subject of dreaming replacing my 17 year old Ford F-150 truck with a new 2021 Ford F-150. I’ve got pretty much everything I basically need Festool wise, except the nice toys.

 

[MaineShop]

I use one everyday and it is nice, in terms of dust collection I have an older smaller makita that actually has better dust collection when hooked up to a dust collector. But for jobs where you are switching angles back and forth the kapex with its easy front adjustments is worth its weight in gold. If you are mostly doing 90 degree cross cuts and are not using the bevel much it is a little harder to justify the cost.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I rarely cut angles unless doing trim and while I have a few trim boards to do it’s not a lot.  That said, when I do my kitchen cabinets I’ll be putting up crown and perhaps it could be helpful.

I do see a used Kapex ES for $850 with rebuilt motor, gearbox, etc. but that makes me wonder how bad it was abused if it needed gearbox rebuilt, etc.  Is it worth getting a used EB or if I wanted a Kapex just stick with REB?
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/d/cedarburg-festool-kapex-120eb/7192003236.html

 

[ChuckM]

I think you already answered your own question of whether you should get a Dewalt or a Kapex: "...cash to spend." The Kapex, for a hobbyist which I assume you're, is a very good way to spend cash! [big grin]

As between a used EB and a new REB, it's just a question of how much MORE cash you want to spend.

 

[threesixright]

Spend it. Money needs to roll LOL.

If you ever choose to sell the KAPEX will keep some of its value. And probably its the last mitre saw you will buy.

I don’t use it daily, but when I fire it up, its a delight to use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fignewton]

I waited to get a Kapex until I found one on CL.  I also got the stand and then the wings to go with it.  Before that, I have had Makita, Milwaukee (with digital readout), and the newest Dewalt double bevel slider.  Sold each to upgrade, and I love the Kapex setup.  I keep it on the stand under an open space between two base cabinets and the wings on a shelf with my wood stock.  I can roll it out, and have it all set up ready to go in about 3 minutes.  I run a separate small Rigid 5 hp vac with a dust deputy on it.  It's very portable this way too.    It may not be as powerful as the Dewalt, but making several cut passes, I haven't had any trouble getting it through larger stock.  With a zero clearance fence and insert, cut quality is excellent.

 

[ceddy]

The main advantage to the KAPEX is dust collection. If that isn’t an issue and money is an issue I would put my funds towards other tools

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I've decided to buy the Kapex!!  Hopefully the motor will not burn out and it'll bring me joy and appreciation for nice tools every time I use it.

My basement wood shop happens to be my "work from home" environment, music studio, and storage area so the less dust getting all over everything the better! 

I've seen recommendations for larger hose ... I've whatever hose came with the CT 36 E ... is there anything I should consider buying for the Kapex (zero clearance, hose, etc.) or is it good to go out of the box?

 

[ChuckM]

Items I find useful for my Kapex:

- Zero clearance inserts (shop-made, or economical ones from Fastcap, or fancy aluminum ones from other vendors, etc.)

- Ten million dollar stick from Fastcap (https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/miter-saw-recommendation-64169/msg620108/#msg620108)

- Sawstach shroud for improved dust collection

 

[Birdhunter]

My extras are a short 36mm hose for better (not perfect) dust collection and a zero clearance insert.  I also made a sacrificial fence per the Supplemental Guide.

The Kapex is prone to kick back if you lift the head before the blade comes to a full stop. 

Look in the packing for the Allen wrench. You will need it to adjust the lasers. Read the manual. Adjusting the lasers can be tedious.

Listen to the Kapex. Back off the cut if the machine sounds like it is laboring. Sometimes, I make a pass half through the wood and a second cut to go all the way through.

I use only one of the two hold down clamps. Less chance of a kick back.

Don’t muscle the saw. It is a precision tool.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Thanks for all the feedback everybody much appreciated. 

 

[Birdhunter]

I forgot to mention one trick I’ve learned. Please don’t ask how.

If I’m cutting a board that might not be perfectly flat, I’ll make one cut about 2/3 way through about a 1/16” away from the final cut line. I’ll make a second cut 2/3 way through widening the trough. I’ll make the next cut down the center of the trough. I then make the final cut to my mark. I’m only trimming off 1/16” so no binding possible.

All this fuss to be sure the board does not bind on the saw blade! But, I hate to be scared by my saw.