Kapex Baseboard Limitation

fifo28

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
119
I have been playing with my Kapex for a little bit.  It is a big step up from my very old Dewalt.  I love the weight and the lasers (this saw completely changed my opinion on lasers).  But, one big issue for me is baseboards.  My Dewalt was a 12" saw and I got very used to cutting base vertically.  But the Kapex has a significantly reduced vertical height and I find cutting the baseboards on a bevel very difficult.  Has anyone else found this difficult?  Any tips to make this easier?
 
fifo28 said:
I have been playing with my Kapex for a little bit.  It is a big step up from my very old Dewalt.  I love the weight and the lasers (this saw completely changed my opinion on lasers).  But, one big issue for me is baseboards.  My Dewalt was a 12" saw and I got very used to cutting base vertically.  But the Kapex has a significantly reduced vertical height and I find cutting the baseboards on a bevel very difficult.  Has anyone else found this difficult?  Any tips to make this easier?

I find standing up skirting (baseboard) More difficult as you can adjust the your cut as easily to what you need it to be incase the floor running out or the baseboard already fitted is not plum!

So what I am saying it its far easier having skirting laying flat to cut mitres I think as you can square a line across the face or of square in many case and move the kapex having the lasers on to the line.

I have never understood why so many people like skirting standing up.  I have always had mine flat on the base. 

JMB
 
I like cutting baseboard vertically. It's fast! I didn't though on my old 12" bosch scms, as it was darned difficult to get the saw bevel setting exactly. You would have to counter the weight of the motor and compensate for the "sag" .

Then I got a Milwaukee 12" scms, with the 1/10th degree digital readout. That was fast! and accurate. It was a no-brainer, just set the angle, place the baseboard, and cut. Next piece? I didn't even move the setting, I cut it the matching piece upside down.  After almost three years though the digital readout was starting to go squirly.

Then I got a kapex :D:D:D

The kapex does not have the cutting capacity of the Milwaukee, BUT it has that incredible counter balanced bevel mechanisim. You can dial in your bevel very closely, and it stays put- lock it down and cut! so the kapex system is great!

And it's a much smaller saw than my Milwaukee, so I can cram more tools into my ford explorer :D
 
i would never cut it stood up. maybe because i always used to use 7" skirtings
 
Deansocial said:
i would never cut it stood up. maybe because i always used to use 7" skirtings

Even if you was using 3inch skirting still easier and better NOT stood up!  I could say the same when I first starting using skirting which was I think 10inch or might of been 12 inch  not the easiest skirting to learn from!  I would of still done the same thing I recon or would of changed my ways if I had stood the skirting up when I was learning cus I believe its much hard  to do a good scribe or external mitre joint to site conditions.  If everything was perfect then you could stand skirting up but site work aint so  lay it down!

JMB
 
Some people cope their skirting (baseboards here).  It can be fast to cut the miter standing up with the skirting board upside down.  Then flip the miter angle the opposite way to say a 5 degree miter and chop down along the intersection of the uncut portion and the cut portion until you hit a transition that can't be cut.  Then use the coping saw or something else for the rest.

Hope that this makes sense.

Peter
 
jmbfestool said:
Deansocial said:
i would never cut it stood up. maybe because i always used to use 7" skirtings

Even if you was using 3inch skirting still easier and better NOT stood up!   I could say the same when I first starting using skirting which was I think 10inch or might of been 12 inch  not the easiest skirting to learn from!  I would of still done the same thing I recon or would of changed my ways if I had stood the skirting up when I was learning cus I believe its much hard  to do a good scribe or external mitre joint to site conditions.  If everything was perfect then you could stand skirting up but site work aint so   lay it down!

JMB
Most trim guys here cuts baseboard(skirt board to you)standing up,not laying flat,unless it is too tall to be cut that way.
 
For our European and other worldwide members, skirt boards of the sizes that you may be accustomed to seeing are not generally seen here unless the height of the room can make them in scale.  The Kapex along with any other SCMS has height limitations that are more limiting than laying stock flat on the table and beveling versus standing upright and mitering.

Hopefully I will get some time this weekend to do a video  [eek] showing things as some help to our viewers in other places of the world as well as new comers here.

Haven't done one of these in awhile. 

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
Some people cope their skirting (baseboards here).  It can be fast to cut the miter standing up with the skirting board upside down.  Then flip the miter angle the opposite way to say a 5 degree miter and chop down along the intersection of the uncut portion and the cut portion until you hit a transition that can't be cut.  Then use the coping saw or something else for the rest.

Hope that this makes sense.

Peter

Little confused to which way but it sounds like how I do it!    

For external corners I have my skirting laying face down so I cut from the back.  

For internal corners I have my skirting laying face up I cut a 45 degree  then flip the saw over to 5-10 degrees and cut the straight up to where the mould starts and then use coping saw to cut the rest.  (some us jigsaws)

JMB
 
JMB,

You and I are talking the same - although in different dialects.  The result is that Kapex is being used to back bevel the straight portions of the skirt board (baseboard) and then the remainder will be coped using a different method.  That method can be used standing up if the piece works with the saw, or lying down if the straight portion is placed towards the user.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
JMB,

You and I are talking the same - although in different dialects.  The result is that Kapex is being used to back bevel the straight portions of the skirt board (baseboard) and then the remainder will be coped using a different method.  That method can be used standing up if the piece works with the saw, or lying down if the straight portion is placed towards the user.

Peter

The problem I find stand up is

1.  it's all good and well if your cutting the skirting square when you have it standing up. The difficulty comes when you have to cut the skirting out of square  you have no idea what to set the bevel at when your cutting the skirting standing up its all gues work. If you have it layed flat you can (with kapex) use the lasers and adjust the angle till the lasers fallows your out of square pencil mark very easily.  Or you can slide you blade back and forth till the blade hits your marks top and bottom.

2. Festool dust hood catches the skirting
 
Back
Top