Kapex bent fence fix

Timtool

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Mar 13, 2011
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I knew my fence wasn't flat but slightly concave, and that i had frequent kick backs on the kapex. Then i read on here that i wasn't the only one.

I had tried some time ago to force the kapex fence flat by unscrewing it and with a clamp forcing it as flat as possible while tightening it back again. But it only slightly reduced the gap, which was of 0.6mm in the center. With this small gap when cutting wide or thick boards as soon as the cut was through the two halves would close together as they were pulled to close the gap, which pinches the blade and cause the saw head to violently fly toward you.
I guess i learned to live with it by preparing myself to stop the saw from kicking back, but each time it happens it is scary!

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So i thought of a way to make the fence flat, by attaching a solid wood fence to it and then passing it over the jointer until flat! And it works!
I used quarter sawn beechwood and finished it with two coats of  boat varnish to make sure it doesn't "move"
Mine is 10mm thick so it allows you to still use the clamp, but i would suggest to use 8mm to have a little extra room.

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I used the opportunity to also finally build a zero clearance insert, it somehow scared me to do that, while finally it took less than 15 minutes to make!
I was also surprised to find out that besides no more kick backs, it has also improved DC, the saw used to throw dust through the large gap in the center of the standard fence. But now that gap is closed and the dust goes up into the dust shroud.

 
The loss of 10mm of cut length is well worth getting rid of kickback. I'm curious though, shouldn't Festool fix this and make it perfectly flat? Is this how all Kapex are built? Unfortunately I don't have a joiner so this isn't an option for me, guess I'll be scrutinizing my kapex when I finally get one.
 
A new fence is about € 55,-.. Why didnt you buy a new one.. Did it affect squareness in any way?

Gr rick
 
I can only suppose not all fences are bent, if i had bought mine new i would have asked to get it fixed. Mine is one of the first ones from 2007 i believe. I noticed mine has 4 holes in the fences while the newer ones seem to have two.

@Rick, first thing i did before starting the build was to check ekat and indeed the bottom part is "only" €55. But ordering the part, traveling to the dealer hoping the part would be flat, paying for it and trying not to buy the new EHL65 wasn't very interesting compared to the time it took to build this on a sunday. Plus the fact that you are paying to replace a faulty part bugs me.

The only negative part is that the clamp can't pivot sideways anymore, it could if i grinded away a part of it but i don't feel the need.
The other aspects are all improved, better DC, no more kickbacks and better accuracy. With a bent fence it is simply impossible to get perfectly accurate cuts, the angle would change depending on what side of the blade the workpiece was laying...

To others with a straight fence i can only suggest to slam a piece of 8mm plywood on their fence, for mine i had to use a more complex method because planing plywood is a bad idea!
 
Any issues with your Festool power tool can be addressed under our warranty. Contact your local Festool offices for assistance.
 
My fence was damaged after a monstrous kickback
I myself am guilty. Forgot "General Rule": cut small pieces only through the gasket.
Of course, it not a warranty case. Likewise, you can spoil any miltre saw.

P.S. If fence "slightly concave" on the new Kapex - is covered by warranty. As far as I know, they are replaced by smooth without any issues.
 
I have an auxiliary fence like yours and for some reason it's a little more concave than the Kapex fence.  In the past I would shim both sides next to the blade which makes the rig slightly convex instead of concave.  Slightly convex is safer and not a real problem as long as you square the blade to the left side of the fence and always use the left side for finish cuts when square is important.  But next time I put on the aux fence I'm not using shims and I'm taking it to the jointer.  Great idea!
 
Nice video.

My Kapex fence is slightly concave out of the box.  Thought about removing the fence assembly like your video and taking it to a machine shop to have it lapped flat.

Maybe I should just send it in like Shane suggested since its within a year?
 
Hi all,

Could someone explain exactly what is meant by the fence is concave? Are the side fences out of plane with each other, or is each one dished? If dished, side-to-side, top-to-bottom, or both? Thinking of springing for a Kapex but don't want a ton of trouble with the fences, gearbox, laser lights, etc. as I've read much about ...

Thanks, Dick
 
The two sides are not in plane with each other.  Both sides are slightly 'set in' creating what is being described as "concave."  This is the cause of the kickback that everyone is referring to in all the threads. 

The Best option would be to get a machinist strait edge and check the fence at the dealer before buying.  If its not perfectly in plane then tell your dealer to fix the problem and you will buy it.  If you buy online than you will be mailing it in.
 
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