Kapex fence alignment

[simdave]

I've tried everything to square both the left and right fences.  When I get one square the other is off by 1/32 in on a 10 Inch cross cut.  I've put several straight edges across the fences and they show to be flat.  I've changed the blade with no impact.  I called festool and while they said to ship the Kapex back to them for alignment, the technician suggested that this amount of error across a 10 inch cut was within tolerances for the saw.  Would like to know if this is common for Kapex owners or if someone has a fix.  Thanks.

 

[shoe maker]

if your right and left fence are in perfect straight alignment. you adjust the miter cut with the miter scale plate. not by moving the two fences around.. read your owners manual

 

[mikegandy]

I have the exact same problem with my 10 day old kapex.  I used the 4 cut method to set up the miter scale and got it bang on  the left side and it wasn't until I dry fit my pieces that the cuts made from the right side of the saw were out 1mm over 8 inches. if this is the allowed tollerance then festool need to give their head a shake. My old dewalt 12" slider works near perfect but I put it under the bench for unsurpassed quality that was spoke of about the kapex as I have experienced with other festool tools.  very disappointed right now.

 

[jonny round boy]

Something isn't right here.

If your saw cuts bang on 90 degees one side, and the fence is perfectly straight, how can it not cut 90 degrees on the other (unless your blade kerf gets wider as you pull it forward)? It's not about tolerances, it's basic maths - a straight fence is 180 degrees. If it cuts 90 on one side, you're left with 90 on the other...

Either your fence isn't straight, or you haven't held the timber flat against the fence on some or all of your cuts.

Or am I oversimplifying the problem? [blink]

 

[mikegandy]

I can't figure it out either. I'm always pushing the blade through the workpiece not pulling and i used the clamp to be sure. I though perhaps my left hand pushes the saw out of alignment more than my right which is my preferred method? Maybe the fence is to short to be that accurate as well?

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Even if something were off with the saw, you should be able to pick up whether the saw is the cause or your method of cutting is by going to the basics.  
Set the saw's miter table to 0 till it locks in solidly and the same with the bevel.  
Using a machinists square (not something that's sort of  like it, but the real thing), put it against the blade and fence on one side and check that there are no gaps and do the same for the other side.  
Do the same checks while sliding the saw head along the poles.  
If it's perfectly square to both fences during this whole test, then the problem is you, not the saw.  
The only other check would be with a dial indicator mounted to the side of the blade, close to the arbor to measure any flex in the saw head giving excessive side to side movement during a cut, probably a result of a bearing problem on the slides.  
Just remember that the user also has the ability to put excessive pressure on the saw head during a cut causing some sideways movement, throwing off the cut.  
Make sure that isn't causing the problem.

 

[shoe maker]

or your board is not 100 straight or percent parallel. make sure you are using the same reference side of the board when you check it on the other side of the blade.... did you do the 5 cut test on both sides of the blade and see how far off the other side is? are you clamping your boards when you make you test cuts? that is the only way to make sure you are not getting any movement of the board when you run the blade through it. sharp blade and soft materials is best when calibrating so you do not have any deflection causing the error

 

[mikegandy]

I have used 3 different squares including an engineers square and they all read the same. The 5 cut method on both sides of the fence with a clamp on baltic birch,mdf and mahogany. Still the same problem. I loosened the bolts holding the fence on the right in case there was tension from shipping but still no. Festool tech called and suggested the blade might be damaged but i doubt it. Also he said the saw may be askew slightly (blade not running parallel to guide rails) so he suggested a 6" piece of wood cut with a chop cut and then sliding through. Try this on both sides of the blade. I'll try it tonight with a different blade.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Mike, do you have a dial indicator and indicator holder that you could clamp to the saw, with the indicator's tip touching the side of the blade as you slide the saw head fowards and backwards?  That would give you the info about whether the blade is parallel to the poles and any play issues.  I doubt you'll read 0, but give the reading to Festool tech support and see if it's within normal limits.  Also, check square at different heights on the fences as I once had a saw that was square to the blade at one height level, yet wasn't at other levels.  The fence was not machined or cast properly in my case.

 

[mikegandy]

Thanks for the reply ken. I don't gave a dial indicator but i think that procedure would tell the story. The tech said if his test don't work then return it for a new one. I hate to do it but i will

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Whatever route you choose, all the best.  Hope it works out in the end.  Especially for a $1300 saw or what it costs Canadian.

It is a good idea to have a dial indicator and stand or holder for use with the bigger woodworking tools.  It helps to figure out if stuff has gone askew, worn, blades distorted, etc. and there are plenty of decent models that are relatively inexpensive.  I'm just pointing this out to everyone, from my experiences.

Mike, I was also thinking you might want to try having someone else also make test cuts to compare with your results.

 

[mikegandy]

I think i will invest in a dial indicator. Currently it is $1575 in canada vs $1300 in the us and our dollar is at par

 

[WillowRanchWoodworks]

I just purchased the Kapex and am having the same exact issue.  I brought the saw back to Woodcraft and they got me another one.  Great customer service.  Only problem is the other one was the exact same.  I went in today to talk to the manager and we tried their demo saw.  Same exact thing.  I can't comprehend how FESTOOL finds this ok.  1/32 out in 10" is no small amount in my opinion.  The manger at Woodcraft agreed and said he was going to try to get ahold of someone to figure things out.  3 out of 3 saws where 1/32 out on the right side.  Left side was perfect. 
I'd be curious to have you other Kapex owners try yours and tell me what you find...  I have the newer REB model.  Not sure if that matters.  I would expect that if all saws are like this there would be alot more upset users out there...

 

[ChuckM]

Kinda disappointing given the price tag, eh?

Mine is over 5 years old, and last time I checked (Jan. 2019), it was still dead-on.

 

[Birdhunter]

My older Kapex is dead on 90 degrees using the left fence, but a hair off using the right fence. A Starrett 24” straight edge across both fences looked good. However, when I ran the straight edge across the left fence toward the right fence, there was a slight bump as the straightedge encountered the right fence. I believe the two fences are not perfectly co-planer. My solution was to add sacrificial fences and shim them into being perfectly co-planer.

 

[WillowRanchWoodworks]

The fence on each of these three saws was dead on perfect.  Which is why people have a hard time believing that the left of the blade cuts square and the right does not.  I think they guys at Woodcraft thought I was crazy until I showed them on their own saw. 

 

[ChuckM]

The Woodcraft store staff should have taken out a straightedge and checked the saw on the floor instead of not believing a customer.

 

[WillowRanchWoodworks]

I was never told they didn't believe me.  I just felt that because of the oddity of the situation.  Still unsure what to do.  Am curious as to what other new model Kapex's are doing.  Can others check theirs and let me know?  I can probably push to keep getting new saws sent to me until I am happy... But if they are manufactured this way then that seems like a lost cause.

 

[peter halle]

I was never told they didn't believe me.  I just felt that because of the oddity of the situation.  Still unsure what to do.  Am curious as to what other new model Kapex's are doing.  Can others check theirs and let me know?  I can probably push to keep getting new saws sent to me until I am happy... But if they are manufactured this way then that seems like a lost cause.

A lot of water has passed under the bridge since this thread from 2011 and before was brought back to life.  If you want a Kapex then trying to find one that fits your desired specifications would seem in order.  You should be able to get one and be happy.  But if you are a guy who will have a nagging thought in your mind - then move on to another brand.

Peter

 

[ChuckM]

As I always say, the best check is to check it with sample cuts, regardless of what machine it is. My SawStop cuts extremely precise and accurate, but I wonder if it'd pass the tests when I checked it with tools used by the machinists. But I don't care what those measurement tools might say as long as my joints it delivers are dead-on. I work with wood after all, not materials reserved for rockets and the like.  [tongue]