Kapex MFT15 Mobile

[mlfaber]

I still have a few additions I'd like to make on my Kapex command station, but I thought you guys might enjoy/offer some good input on it.

Monday, I took the bottom off and added some angle iron to eliminate the sag in it.

Notice how it also doubles as a dinner table!

Great taste in saws and beer!

 

[Electric Trim]

Regarding the sawhorses, I've had those Stanley alum/plastic sawhorses for a few years.  Unless you've got a bunch of idiots throwing 2x12's from the roof on them, I've found them to be quite durable enough and certainly for a miter saw stand where the load is balanced and static.  They adjust for height and uneven ground and store in about 4" of space.  best I've found for lightweight & durable saw horses.

Another option is the Husky X-horses.  Very cool and super durable.  Only need one for about a 3x3 worksurface.  Two of them would hold near 1000lbs.  I use one for a quick mitersaw stand or for a simple worksurface, and also screw my Kreg jig to it for a few pocket holes.

Julian

By the time I have the command station, Kapex saw, and all my goodies on top of the saw horses, it's probably about 150 lbs.  so any power cords would probably get jerked out of the plug before pulling the whole assembly to the ground.  Good concern though.

 

[TJ Cornish]

No reason for conduit inside the unit - use romex and route and anchor it properly.

The number of outlets does not require a higher amperage 30amp cord - the key is versatility of hookup positions: this is not a unit that is going to have every outlet used at once - 12ga wire inside and standard heavy duty 15amp plug is plenty sufficient for the intended use imo.

The problem with projects like these is people assume that the NEC applies to everything.  That's actually not the case, unless it's a structure.  This project isn't a house, so the UL is actually the governing body for devices like these. 

Having the Romex totally protected from mechanical damage by the ply is a good thing.  Having that protection be plastic junction boxes and flammable material is less so.  Another concern is using solid wire for a mobile application - it can work harden and break or loosen itself from connections due to being bounced around.  Stranded wire would be an improvement here too.

We're arguing about something that is moot anyway - neither design is going to get any official approval, and being a portable device is unlikely to ever be inspected.  Compared to most of the jobsites I've been on with extension cords missing ground pins and the strain reliefs pulled out of cord ends, this project is amazingly good.

You're right about the 30 amp plug - not only is it not required, but it's highly undesirable since there would never be an outlet to plug it into.

 

[Theshipstore]

It a great setup and makes me want to buy the Kapex, I really like thebar clamp light pole setup.
I will agree though with the GFI in the first outlet to protect the rest and also the user.
Again Nice work

Sal

 

[Electric Trim]

Thanks TJ and Sal.  Maybe I'll add a GFI:  while I do value safety, I also desire full flow of electricity to my power tools!

 

[TJ Cornish]

I've never had trouble tripping GFCIs unless there was a real issue, and I doubt you would have problems either.  Arc fault breakers on the other hand drive me crazy.  I can't run one of my vacuums or my miter saw on an arc fault breaker, and I question the safety enhancement they provide, especially when the home owner gets fed up with things not working and rips the stupid thing out and replaces it with a standard thermal or magnetic breaker.

 

[FulThrotl]

That's a nice idea.  My crystal ball says you will eventually be switching to metal coverplates due to frequent breakage of the plastic ones.  If you make a new version someday, you may want to think about putting a GFCI in as your first outlet (maybe you already did but don't have a picture), and putting in metal boxes and conduit instead of romex may make the inspectors a little happier.

Thanks for the input.

I do need to get some more durable cover plates.  I have "unbreakable" plates, but they're not so unbreakable...

Do you think I should use conduit even though it's concealed behind 1/2" plywood?

yes. use 1/2" EMT. you can use metal or steel flex, or type MC cable as well, but it
would look sucky in comparison to EMT.

metal  4SD junction boxes.
raised industrial two gang
decora covers.

stranded #12 wire for hookup.

a GFCI on the first device.
you can run six other devices downstream.

for the field connection cord, use type
SO 12-3 (very important) cord, with a
heavy duty cord cap, either twist lock
or U ground, depending on your preference.

here is why:

if you are on a commercial job, and have the
misfortune to have an OSHA inspector show
up on the job, the fine for "improvised job
extension cords" is VERY expensive.

in excess of US $1,000. not exceeding $2,500.

if you do it with what i described above,
you are UL approved. you are making
an assembly from components that are
all UL listed, so the assembly is therefore
UL listed.

no fine.

(ok, i cheated. i'm an electrical contractor.
that is why i know all this off the top of my
head....)

btw... nice saw station.... ;-)

EDIT:

while plastic boxes and romex are UL listed, they aren't
listed for temporary power cord duty.....

SO cord is listed for 600 volt duty, and has a thicker
cover than SJO cord, so it won't get damaged as easily.

as far as osha is concerned, you can't even put a repair
plug on the end of a cord that came with molded ends on it.

the osha inspectors cut up cords they find like that, after
they write you a citation......

just sayin....

 

[FulThrotl]

I've never had trouble tripping GFCIs unless there was a real issue, and I doubt you would have problems either.  Arc fault breakers on the other hand drive me crazy.  I can't run one of my vacuums or my miter saw on an arc fault breaker, and I question the safety enhancement they provide, especially when the home owner gets fed up with things not working and rips the stupid thing out and replaces it with a standard thermal or magnetic breaker.

they don't provide any level of safety, unlike GFCI devices.

AFCI devices are supposed to detect arcing on the circuit,
and shut off the power.

the chief electrical inspector of a nearby city and i did a test
on AFCI's. we plugged in a light on a circuit so there would
be a current flow, and then broke a wirenut connection, and
played with the wires to make as big an arc as we could....
i coulda started a BBQ with the arc.... never did trip the AFCI.

 

[meldgaard]

Very nice - Have you seen Ron Paulk's Kapex miter stand on youtube?

 

[Electric Trim]

I have!  I'm a Ron Paulk (and Ron Paul) super fan.  I love all his stuff, no reservations in that opinion!