Kapex Precision

[smartins]

I'm not surprised, my OF1400 is also very loose in base bushings from day one. Probably I will redo bushings myself along with fixing some other things I don't like in this router.

I appreciate the feedback and suggestions. After testing it, I think it is not the right tool for me. Head play aside, there are a number of other design choices that make it unworkable for what I want. [sad]

 

[clifton clowers]

I would never want to argue your decision, but would greatly like to understand what you were trying to do that the Kapex wasn't right for.

Was not trying to be cryptic, but I know others really like this saw so I didn't want to be negative. Basically I am looking for a dedicated cross cutting station so I can use my table saw for ripping, and something else for cross cutting, angles, etc. And I was hoping I could find something where setting and resetting angles would be a lot less tedious than with the table saw that does both.

In order to use it this way I would need a way to set measurable and adjustable stops, but that really requires considerable external structure. That is both expensive and it requires space that I don't have.

Second there is really no good way to add a continuous/zero clearance fence - necessary for me as I cut a lot of very small pieces. I tried to use a piece of 1/2" MDF but the thickness interferes with the clamp. Thinner MDF is likely too flexible, and 9mm baltic birch is not of a consistent enough thickness.  And disposable fences are a must since every angle change would require a new one.

Finally, I am really disappointed with the included clamp - it feels like that old joke about the restaurant where the food is terrible, and the portions are so small. The fact that they did not include 2 clamps, and that they charge $90 for a second is bad enough. But the fact that the clamp has such poor holding strength is worse.

So all in all I think I would be $2500-3000 all in to do what I want. For less money, and possibly less space, I can use a nice sled in a dedicated second table saw and get better results. Having 2 table saws seems ridiculous in a basement shop, but it is the best solution I can come up with.

If I had a big investment in a Festool system, or if I was traveling to job sites to install built-ins, this would make a lot more sense. But for a home shop where it competes with a cabinet saw, it does not for me.

 

[Birdhunter]

Thanks for the explanation. I hope the 2nd table saw approach works to your satisfaction. I make a lot of very precise and complicated small boxes from precious woods. So, our needs are not too different.

I ended up with the Industrial Sawstop and the Kapex. The Industrial Sawstop is big, heavy, vibrationless, and pattern maker accurate. My shop is full of jigs for the table saw.

I also make furniture and the Kapex shines in cutting long boards down to size. I’ve only used its complex miter cutting a couple of times.

 

[Maximus]

In any sliding miter saw, even Festool's there will always be potential for play,

After returning the two Amazon saws, I finally picked up one of these from my local Woodcraft. It was in good shape, and everything appears pretty square out of the box. But like on the other ones, I can definitely move the head around.

Here is the second cut I made. It cut smoothly and easily - no weird force or anything. The ridge is 0.2mm - not a lot, but more than I'd expect from something this expensive. And having one's hand move, if allowed to, by 0.2mm does not seem unusual. Am I expecting too much to think the saw's rigidity should prevent this? Does this look unusual?

[attachimg=1]

This is why I opt to use my MFT/3 for such cuts!  It is invariably flawless and can be set up for far greater accuracy.  Unless I'm cutting cornice (aka crown molding) I now find I have no need of a mitre saw.  My MFT does it all, and better.

 

[Bohdan]

I tried to use a piece of 1/2" MDF but the thickness interferes with the clamp.

If you remove the top of the clamp, open the body and remove the spring inside, you can reverse the clamp upright so that the small end is on the bottom, replace the spring and close the body. You can then add a 19mm zero clearance fence and use the clamp without it hitting the fence.

 

[ChuckM]

Finally, I am really disappointed with the included clamp - it feels like that old joke about the restaurant where the food is terrible, and the portions are so small. The fact that they did not include 2 clamps, and that they charge $90 for a second is bad enough. But the fact that the clamp has such poor holding strength is worse.

#1 - I agree totally that for the price of the saw two clamps should have been included. $90 a piece is bad? Yes, it is from a consumer point of view but many Festool items are like that.

#2 - You probably are not using the clamp right if it does not give you a good holding strength. Here is how to use it properly to get the max holding strength:

Press down on the clamp bar head (green top) and continue to hold it with its foot hard against the workpiece when you turn the lever to lock the hold down clamp. When you let go, the clamp holds the workpiece tight to the bed.

The way shown at 5:08 in the above video is not the way I would set my clamp.

 

[Woodentooth]

When you end up getting your new Kapex, do be on the lookout for the laser adjusting hex key.  They have been known to work their way underneath the styrofoam between the styrofoam and the box.

Peter

Received my Kapex today - can’t find the hex key anywhere - tbf a lot of the polystyrene packaging was broken in the box but no sign of hex key. Liking the Kapex so far tho!