Kreg square drive bits in Centro-tec chuck

curt boyer said:
I bought some kreg bits and modified them per Jay's instructions. I used the worksharp to grid the corners and a 4" grinder to cut off the ends. It was quick and easy, great solution Jay! I would spend alittle time and money and modify the kreg bits rather than wait for bits or not use a drill that you want to use.
Curt

That's cool that it worked out for you Curt!  [big grin] I just use the Square Drive bit as an example of the many other industry standard bits that are unavailable in the Centrotec format. I waxed poetic in another thread about the lack of support for nut drivers. Based on precedence, I doubt we'll ever see Centrotec Robertson bits, let alone Imperial-specific bits such as 1/4" and 5/16" nut drivers.... I imagine an enterprising machinist could make a tidy supplemental income if he/she were to produce aftermarket Centrotec bits.

I agree that I WANT to use a C15, its ergonomics are great, it's a very smooth running drill, and is generally just a sexy drill  [big grin] The problem is that Festool is roughly 10 years behind the curve on cordless drill development. Not in motor design or ergonomics. Rather, they have not kept up with WHAT kinds of fasteners carpenters are using, and HOW they are driving them. I rarely see drills on jobsites any more. Most carpenters that I know use Impact Drivers for 90% of their drilling and driving tasks, and only get out their drills when drilling precision is required.

Again, I'm glad this solution is working for users, I'm just frustrated that we even HAVE to be posting work-arounds.....
Best,
Tom
 
I use my 18v lxt Makita impact for most of my fastening. The t-18 for drilling holes and driving pocket screws. The last kitchen I finished last week, I had the opportunity to use all off the chucks provided in the kit. The right angle chuck was the main reason I bought the kit. I do a lot of kitchens and finish carpentry and there always seems to be crazy angles and spaces involved. I had grown frustrated with the various aftermarket right angle drilling and fastening bits. I felt like Houdni hanging upside down under water trying to get out of handcuffs. With the right angle chuck locked you can use two hands not three to do your task.I used to use two drills when I did a kitchen job. I was constantly switching from square to phillips, from countersink to drill bit. Just thinking about hurts my carpal tunnel. Now I'm of the Norm router mentality, instead of playing Russian roulette with bit changes on my drills, I use five drills. 18v impact-square drive for hanging cabinets and attaching cabinets together. 12v impact-phillips to remove cabinet doors and adjust hardware. T-18 for countersinking and wherever the various chucks in the kit can be used. 18v Makita drill for hole saws and spade bits. 12v for door knobs and pulls. This system works well for us. With two or three of us working on a kitchen, we aren't waiting for the proper drill and bit combo. Nothing drives me crazy like seeing a high dollar carpenter waiting to use a tool from another high dollar carpenter. Tom buy the T18 kit you won't regret it.
 
curt boyer said:
I use my 18v lxt Makita impact for most of my fastening. The t-18 for drilling holes and driving pocket screws. The last kitchen I finished last week, I had the opportunity to use all off the chucks provided in the kit. The right angle chuck was the main reason I bought the kit. I do a lot of kitchens and finish carpentry and there always seems to be crazy angles and spaces involved. I had grown frustrated with the various aftermarket right angle drilling and fastening bits. I felt like Houdni hanging upside down under water trying to get out of handcuffs. With the right angle chuck locked you can use two hands not three to do your task.I used to use two drills when I did a kitchen job. I was constantly switching from square to phillips, from countersink to drill bit. Just thinking about hurts my carpal tunnel. Now I'm of the Norm router mentality, instead of playing Russian roulette with bit changes on my drills, I use five drills. 18v impact-square drive for hanging cabinets and attaching cabinets together. 12v impact-phillips to remove cabinet doors and adjust hardware. T-18 for countersinking and wherever the various chucks in the kit can be used. 18v Makita drill for hole saws and spade bits. 12v for door knobs and pulls. This system works well for us. With two or three of us working on a kitchen, we aren't waiting for the proper drill and bit combo. Nothing drives me crazy like seeing a high dollar carpenter waiting to use a tool from another high dollar carpenter. Tom buy the T18 kit you won't regret it.

Great post Curt!! I definitely agree with you on the bringing out multiple drills for certain tasks, but also having a go-to tool for most tasks. Right now my go-to cordless tool is a Makita LXT impact driver. I'll take your advice and check out the Festool drills again, perhaps a C15 or T18 for drilling. It just bugs me that for $500 it would still end up being a secondary tool, due to lack of bit support. For kitchen installs I've found This Makita Right Angle Impact Driver to be invaluable. It is more comfortable to hold than my old C12, and is a right angle impact driver rather than just a right angle drill. Worth checking out. Great post, I'll try to stay open minded about the Festool cordless!
Best,
Tom
 
Tom Gensmer said:
curt boyer said:
I use my 18v lxt Makita impact for most of my fastening. The t-18 for drilling holes and driving pocket screws. The last kitchen I finished last week, I had the opportunity to use all off the chucks provided in the kit. The right angle chuck was the main reason I bought the kit. I do a lot of kitchens and finish carpentry and there always seems to be crazy angles and spaces involved. I had grown frustrated with the various aftermarket right angle drilling and fastening bits. I felt like Houdni hanging upside down under water trying to get out of handcuffs. With the right angle chuck locked you can use two hands not three to do your task.I used to use two drills when I did a kitchen job. I was constantly switching from square to phillips, from countersink to drill bit. Just thinking about hurts my carpal tunnel. Now I'm of the Norm router mentality, instead of playing Russian roulette with bit changes on my drills, I use five drills. 18v impact-square drive for hanging cabinets and attaching cabinets together. 12v impact-phillips to remove cabinet doors and adjust hardware. T-18 for countersinking and wherever the various chucks in the kit can be used. 18v Makita drill for hole saws and spade bits. 12v for door knobs and pulls. This system works well for us. With two or three of us working on a kitchen, we aren't waiting for the proper drill and bit combo. Nothing drives me crazy like seeing a high dollar carpenter waiting to use a tool from another high dollar carpenter. Tom buy the T18 kit you won't regret it.

Great post Curt!! I definitely agree with you on the bringing out multiple drills for certain tasks, but also having a go-to tool for most tasks. Right now my go-to cordless tool is a Makita LXT impact driver. I'll take your advice and check out the Festool drills again, perhaps a C15 or T18 for drilling. It just bugs me that for $500 it would still end up being a secondary tool, due to lack of bit support. For kitchen installs I've found This Makita Right Angle Impact Driver to be invaluable. It is more comfortable to hold than my old C12, and is a right angle impact driver rather than just a right angle drill. Worth checking out. Great post, I'll try to stay open minded about the Festool cordless!
Best,
Tom

Another point to make is when you are working on location, dragging 5 drills, to the location, into the location and packing them back up and making sure they are safe is a lot of work. I don't have the Festool drills yet...what I have is working and I'm spending my money on other Festool tools until my other drills die. But until Festool makes a hammer drill or an impact driver...Festool doesn't have all the bases covered.

Also let's be honest any drill/driver is only worth its salt, must accept and have every type of tip, bit, driver etc. available and will take other brand tips that you find at any US hardware store. As others here have stated tips, bits and sockets wear out, get lost and can get left at home.

Cheers,
Steve
 
Guys-
I just do this stuff as a hobby, and it seems like I'm more of a tool collector these days than a tool user.  If I were doing this for a living, and using square drive bits every day for general work, the locking Festool hex bit driver and wire detente bits would be my go to. 

Unless you are doing pocket screws, or deep countersunk square head screws, the Festool adapter works just fine, and with McFeely's Square drive wire detente bits it will solve most square drive problems.

It appears that Festool will not be supplying centrotec "pocket hole" bits in the near future, so this is a viable solution for those who really want to use the pocket hole bits with their centrotec.

This whole exercise came about when I bought a new Festool drill (#3 for me) and just couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger on a centrotec installers set.  Not that piece for piece, bit for bit it isn't a good value, but what about those of use who own some of the major components already, and do not have a need for some of the other included items.  I would really like to have the hand driver and socket adapters, but I have most of the other stuff already,  ... (I know they will be available separately soon, and I think that's great of Festool, but I am surprised they will be available)  and a bunch of diffrent stuff that I use when I work on projects.  For use in my shop, Kreg pocket hole drivers that fit the centrotec chuck would have been a great addition to my Custom Centrotec Set.....Couldn't buy them, so I made them.

My modification is just one solution to a problem, but I will admit, it's very simple and fast if you already have a Worksharp.

One of the things I do in my daily life is work on and towards Lean manufacturing, doing everything we can to keep American jobs in America by being more productive and efficient than people in other low cost countries that work for pennies per hour.  The installer sets, and many of the Festool product have Lean Manufacturing principles built into them. As a matter of fact....Faster, Easier, Smarter is an excellent definition of the Lean concept. 

Here's the problem with the installers sets and lean.  Because of the wide variety of people and trades that use the Festool equipment, and the variety of work that gets done with the tools, it is almost impossible to create a one single set of accessories that covers every trade, style, contingency and circumstance that the tools will be used for, and still have no waste, redundancy, or unnecessary bits and pieces.  That is why we should all make our own "Installers Kits", and customize them to suit our particular needs and styles.  The sets Festool offers work probably very well for 80% of the people, 80% of the time, but squeezing out that last 20% of "perfection and refinement" requires more work and thought.

I am constantly working on the 'perfect Jay cenrtrotec" set, and it changes daily. It will only be Lean for me.  This bit modification just solved one of the issues with my plan.

In the next couple of days I can post my "Kit"  in a separate thread.  Right now, I'm pretty pleased with it.
Jay
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
I stopped using the Kreg screws and started using the GRK one's.

Festool has the long torx driver covered.

This takes no time or effort, just buy a better screw.
 
Darcy-
I get your point and have always agreed with it in principle for you and people like you (professionals).  If I did this for a living, I would develop a personal fastener system or methodology that I wanted to use in my work.  It appears that you have done so.  I'm sure that you use the best fasteners you believe will work for your purposes, taking into consideration that you don't want to have to mess with too many diffrent sizes and styles.  I'd bet that you probably use 3 or 4 particular screws 80% of the time.  If that's true (when I used to help my dad install countertops and cabinates as a teen, I remember he only used #2 Phillips screws and only carried about 3 diffrent lengths in his "kit".) then you have, in lean terms, "optimized your inventory", and have probably put a process in place to make sure that you don't run out of those supplies, screws and bits, that you need to do your work.  You know the kind of thing that goes like this..... for screws a, b, or c, I buy 6 boxes at a time, and when I get down to my last two boxes, I order six more.  I know that I'll have my replacement screws in before I run out my other two boxes.......  Even if you don't consciously set yourself up that way, you and most good professionals do this instinctively.  In lean terms, it's called a KanBan system. Some visual reminder to make sure you don't run out of some supply or part.

Now I said "good" professional, and that should be taken as "successful professional", i.e. someone who understands that their existence and business is based on the satisfaction and value they provide for their customers.  By not running out of supplies, and not inconveniencing your customers, or reducing you profit on jobs (time is money when you do this for a living) you maximise you profits, and make it easier for customers to recommend you and rehire you for other jobs. 

All that being said, professionals live in a diffrent world then armatures or DIYers and even "part time professionals" who just do these tasks when they want to, if they need to, or only when they care to.

Remember, Festool and most other tools, are bought by professionals and hobbyists.  I don't know what the exact mix is, but it would be very interesting to know-  I understand why Festool wouldn't publish that market information though......

Me-  I'm a hobby guy, so when I want to make some pocket joinery, I go down to Woodcraft or Loews and by a packet of 100 screws when I need them.  I could run out at any time, but my Kanban is the stock at the local store, so why should I keep more than I need.  If I see I am running low, I may buy two packets, but if I run out of anything....it's no problem or a minor inconvenience for me to just go get some more at a local store that carries something that will work.

There are probably a couple more people like me out there that do the same.  Did you notice on the thread where the guy was talking about making the special square drivers from the machine shop and people were interested.  They were interested in 2 of these and 2 of those......probably people like me.  Someone who has incorporated this disposable tool into their system (bits are disposables, right-  much more to the professional than the hobbyist) would want a supply big enough to never have to worry about running out.

When I was younger, I was a professional magician.  Some people say a professional gets paided for their work.  Other say they make a living at it.  Here's the best definition I found, it applies to magic, woodworking, remodeling and any other trades......an armature magician does diffrent tricks all the time for the same audiences, a professional does the same tricks all the time for diffrent audiences.  If you are building different things all the time for the same group of people, you will defiantly have a diffrent philosophy and methodology then if you do the same basic things over and over for diffrent people.

We are in diffrent camps.....equal but diffrent.
All this from a little screw driver bit...... see why I don't post often...I don't know where to stop
Jay
 
The GRK equivalent to the Kreg screws, don't really cost that much more.

The long centrotec torx bits are available from Festool.  This just seems simpler then grinding your own down to me.

I have 6 different kinds of GRK's I carry with me, 3 different lengths of each normally. [big grin]

Off to the shop...
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
The GRK equivalent to the Kreg screws, don't really cost that much more.

The long centrotec torx bits are available from Festool.   This just seems simpler then grinding your own down to me.

I have 6 different kinds of GRK's I carry with me, 3 different lengths of each normally. [big grin]

Off to the shop...

I'll have to check out those GRK pocket hole screws, I've been really happy with their T10 trim head screws....  [big grin]

My issue is that in remodeling I am frequently stuck working with what the previous carpenter was driving 10-50 years ago. I also often find myself disassembling old cabinets to fit new spaces, and I have yet to run into any pocket screws that were not R2.

Also, deck screws are often R2.

I can see where, in a shop or other controlled environment, you can choose your fasteners to match your drill. In my case (field carpentry), I need a driver that can match what's existing......
Best,
Tom
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
The GRK equivalent to the Kreg screws, don't really cost that much more.

The long centrotec torx bits are available from Festool.   This just seems simpler then grinding your own down to me.

I have 6 different kinds of GRK's I carry with me, 3 different lengths of each normally. [big grin]

Off to the shop...

Maybe it is living in MN and having Canada on our border. It also might be when I consulted to the Crown of Ontario, Canada and many European governments and companies on Maintenance, planning and schedule of work for various organizations. I learned that in Canada, 80% of the screws/bolts have Robertson Head Square connection. Why? because Robertson was a Canadian.  So carrying only three lengths of screws with one head design of my choice, is not an option or even the issue at hand.

It is not an option to just carry Three lengths of one type of screw, I have over 10 Stanly cases of 10's of dozens of types and lengths and in multiple head types. Why...well tell a home owner to go buy a Philips driver for the one door I replace if it works loose in 2 years and all the other 26 doors have Roberson's. Or buy a Robertson driver if the others are straight blade.

Tom G brings up a very good point.... How are you going to get the Robertson screw out if you don't have the Robertson driver that fits it? Also I don't think telling the customer "Oh, I only work on Star Drive projects. But I'm sure you can find a guy that does Philips jobs or only slotted head jobs" and then leaving is going to help business.

Let's put this in perspective. If you are just doing woodworking for yourself as hobby you can pick one head type and only use that when working with new projects and that is not a problem for you, as you are working in a vacuum and only need to please yourself.

If you do this for a living, you have to work with the tools that make you able to get the Job done.  You might find a sheet metal screw with a 1/4" nut drive so  just a star or straight blade, or Phillips won't work and you lose the job.

So let's cut to the chase here. If you are a hobbyist do what you want and as it is only your time and your opinion that matters to you.

If you are a professional that needs to get the job done, use the accepted drive connection for where you are working or use the best product for the project period. You will need Robertson and many other tips to get the work done.

Cheers,
Steve

 
Jay Evans said:
Guys-
I just do this stuff as a hobby, and it seems like I'm more of a tool collector these days than a tool user.  If I were doing this for a living, and using square drive bits every day for general work, the locking Festool hex bit driver and wire detente bits would be my go to. 

Unless you are doing pocket screws, or deep countersunk square head screws, the Festool adapter works just fine, and with McFeely's Square drive wire detente bits it will solve most square drive problems.

It appears that Festool will not be supplying centrotec "pocket hole" bits in the near future, so this is a viable solution for those who really want to use the pocket hole bits with their centrotec.

This whole exercise came about when I bought a new Festool drill (#3 for me) and just couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger on a centrotec installers set.  Not that piece for piece, bit for bit it isn't a good value, but what about those of use who own some of the major components already, and do not have a need for some of the other included items.  I would really like to have the hand driver and socket adapters, but I have most of the other stuff already,  ... (I know they will be available separately soon, and I think that's great of Festool, but I am surprised they will be available)  and a bunch of diffrent stuff that I use when I work on projects.  For use in my shop, Kreg pocket hole drivers that fit the centrotec chuck would have been a great addition to my Custom Centrotec Set.....Couldn't buy them, so I made them.

My modification is just one solution to a problem, but I will admit, it's very simple and fast if you already have a Worksharp.

One of the things I do in my daily life is work on and towards Lean manufacturing, doing everything we can to keep American jobs in America by being more productive and efficient than people in other low cost countries that work for pennies per hour.  The installer sets, and many of the Festool product have Lean Manufacturing principles built into them. As a matter of fact....Faster, Easier, Smarter is an excellent definition of the Lean concept. 

Here's the problem with the installers sets and lean.  Because of the wide variety of people and trades that use the Festool equipment, and the variety of work that gets done with the tools, it is almost impossible to create a one single set of accessories that covers every trade, style, contingency and circumstance that the tools will be used for, and still have no waste, redundancy, or unnecessary bits and pieces.  That is why we should all make our own "Installers Kits", and customize them to suit our particular needs and styles.  The sets Festool offers work probably very well for 80% of the people, 80% of the time, but squeezing out that last 20% of "perfection and refinement" requires more work and thought.

I am constantly working on the 'perfect Jay cenrtrotec" set, and it changes daily. It will only be Lean for me.  This bit modification just solved one of the issues with my plan.

In the next couple of days I can post my "Kit"  in a separate thread.  Right now, I'm pretty pleased with it.
Jay

Have to say it, the wire detent locking extension Festool makes will last you 4 months at best. Here they are not cheap as well. I've given up on centrotec for robertson bits. i use my cxs chuck now
 
Jay Evans said:
Darcy-
I get your point and have always agreed with it in principle for you and people like you (professionals).  If I did this for a living, I would develop a personal fastener system or methodology that I wanted to use in my work.  It appears that you have done so.  I'm sure that you use the best fasteners you believe will work for your purposes, taking into consideration that you don't want to have to mess with too many diffrent sizes and styles.  I'd bet that you probably use 3 or 4 particular screws 80% of the time.  If that's true (when I used to help my dad install countertops and cabinates as a teen, I remember he only used #2 Phillips screws and only carried about 3 diffrent lengths in his "kit".) then you have, in lean terms, "optimized your inventory", and have probably put a process in place to make sure that you don't run out of those supplies, screws and bits, that you need to do your work.  You know the kind of thing that goes like this..... for screws a, b, or c, I buy 6 boxes at a time, and when I get down to my last two boxes, I order six more.  I know that I'll have my replacement screws in before I run out my other two boxes.......  Even if you don't consciously set yourself up that way, you and most good professionals do this instinctively.  In lean terms, it's called a KanBan system. Some visual reminder to make sure you don't run out of some supply or part.


Jay, I'm guessing you meant to use the word Kanban (not KanBan) but even that use of the word doesn't follow your logic. Kanban is not an inventory control system. It is a scheduling system that helps determine what to produce, when to produce it, and how much to produce, according to its creator, Taiichi Ohno. It is not an inventory system, such as LIFO or FIFO Nor is it a reorder program to keep inventory stock at calculated level of Min/Maximum on hand/reorder level and then the more complex time based usage to adjust reorder level or quantity. What you seem to be alluding to is more the Classical Planning and Scheduling dynamics and metrics that can be used to to know and understand a companies business needs and goals. Also Kanban is not a system indented to be used by itself. It is an integral part of Kaizen and 5S, that are all concepts fall under Deming's Philosophy that were proven about 100 years ago.


Now I said "good" professional, and that should be taken as "successful professional", i.e. someone who understands that their existence and business is based on the satisfaction and value they provide for their customers.  By not running out of supplies, and not inconveniencing your customers, or reducing you profit on jobs (time is money when you do this for a living) you maximise you profits, and make it easier for customers to recommend you and rehire you for other jobs. 


Jay, If I maybe so bold, I read that you are saying  "treat the symptoms not the disease" and you think it will still cure the disease. Satisfaction and value not the "product" delivered to a client/customer. Satisfaction and value are the "resulting effect" from delivering a "predetermined product" of equal or greater performance than defined in the contact between the supplier and the client at the predetermined price that the client was happy with. If this is done then the human ego kicks in and they tell/boast how great they were at finding a great supplier and getting a great price that delivered a product at cost below perceived value.


All that being said, professionals live in a diffrent world then armatures or DIYers and even "part time professionals" who just do these tasks when they want to, if they need to, or only when they care to.

Remember, Festool and most other tools, are bought by professionals and hobbyists.  I don't know what the exact mix is, but it would be very interesting to know-  I understand why Festool wouldn't publish that market information though......


Jay, who else would buy tools besides "Professionals and Hobbyists".... aliens? What you are asking about is the demographics of the buyers, which is a subset of all marketing data information that Festool has. Are you saying that you have asked Festool and they won't tell you this data ... or are you saying that Festool won't publish what you know they know and have?


Me-  I'm a hobby guy, so when I want to make some pocket joinery, I go down to Woodcraft or Loews and by a packet of 100 screws when I need them.  I could run out at any time, but my Kanban is the stock at the local store, so why should I keep more than I need.  If I see I am running low, I may buy two packets, but if I run out of anything....it's no problem or a minor inconvenience for me to just go get some more at a local store that carries something that will work.


Jay, I'm sorry if you perceive I'm picking on you in this post. I have worked for 30 years traveling the world helping companies to really improve and not chase every squirrel of an idea that seems shiny and bright but never catching any one of them. They confuse the concepts never getting better until a full understanding and training is achieved.  

Jay, your local store is your warehouse/inventory that is all. The store is not going to produce/manufacture more of that product. They will just order more from another inventory agent(distributor)to replace what they sold. The location and time it takes to get there are an actual limiter to your production and would be seen as a barrier to performance as they slow you down and take productive time away from you. Any Deming or derivation Kaizen element state this. Now if you as hobbyist find going to the store fun that adds "fun value" to the project but is not even close to being "lean" as some people have ceased on but don't see the big picture.... or don't understand.... you can't one spoke of wheel move faster than the other, you must move the whole wheel at as the "one" that it is.


There are probably a couple more people like me out there that do the same.  Did you notice on the thread where the guy was talking about making the special square drivers from the machine shop and people were interested.  They were interested in 2 of these and 2 of those......probably people like me.  Someone who has incorporated this disposable tool into their system (bits are disposables, right-  much more to the professional than the hobbyist) would want a supply big enough to never have to worry about running out.

When I was younger, I was a professional magician.  Some people say a professional gets paided for their work.  Other say they make a living at it.  Here's the best definition I found, it applies to magic, woodworking, remodeling and any other trades......an armature magician does diffrent tricks all the time for the same audiences, a professional does the same tricks all the time for diffrent audiences.  If you are building different things all the time for the same group of people, you will defiantly have a diffrent philosophy and methodology then if you do the same basic things over and over for diffrent people.

We are in diffrent camps.....equal but diffrent.
All this from a little screw driver bit...... see why I don't post often...I don't know where to stop
Jay

If anyone really cares, read Deming's "The Fourteen Points" and "The Seven Deadly Diseases" and you will understand why US manufacturing went off shore.

I don't really expect the above to be very understandable as there is no silver bullet/one paragraph that imparts all knowledge. The most concise explanation to the concept hinted at above is over 300 pages long and the classroom portion to understand it is 6 weeks long.  This may sound to some as more than any one would ever do.... I can tell you one company that took the 18 months to learn this AND install it... put $97,000,000 to the bottom line in that time.

Cheers,
Steve

 
andvari said:
Steve R said:
If anyone really cares, read Deming's "The Fourteen Points" and "The Seven Deadly Diseases" and you will understand why US manufacturing went off shore.

America's manufacturing hasn't gone off shore.

http://business.time.com/2011/03/10/can-china-compete-with-american-manufacturing/

So you have read Deming book? or are you just posted a reaction link to a word phrase? If you read the book I would enjoy hearing what points that Deming makes that you find/think are not true or you just disagree with. I grew up in a town where a High end washing machine company was ...well it got bought and a town of 20,000 dropped to 11,000 when the manufacturing was sent off shore. So jobs are in fact going off shore... Thank goodness they haven't all gone.

I don't want to get political here as that is not what Fog is about.

Cheers,
Steve
 
I haven't read this whole thread (too much of a read for me) but would this help anybody?
http://www.atlas-machinery.com/products/MISC-6R2-1-R2-X-6-X-Festool-Centrotec-Long-Bits
6R2-1_lg.jpg


By the way, Atlas sells other shorter robertson bits (different sizes ie. R1 and R3 too).
 
Maybe I am missing something, but it seems to me that all Festool would have to do is make a Centrotec type chuck that works with the standard bits used in N.A.  No adapter for the current Centrotec chuck.  Just a new Centrotec look alike chuck (maybe a different color) that works for N.A. bits. 
 
rljatl said:
Maybe I am missing something, but it seems to me that all Festool would have to do is make a Centrotec type chuck that works with the standard bits used in N.A.   No adapter for the current Centrotec chuck.  Just a new Centrotec look alike chuck (maybe a different color) that works for N.A. bits. 

I can almost guarantee it won't happen. The standard for US is not really a standard once you get past the flats and Festool has determined the flats to be not accurate enought to assure the tool will rotate true enough for the tools they offer as Centrotec (think drills). The Centrotec drives off the flats but is guided by the diameter above the flats. This is how they get the tools to run true. The ball detent tools are all over the map as far as that area of the tool is concerned. They wanted to improve the concept and they did. If they accomodate the old design they give up the improvements.
 
That attitude just seems ridiculous.  Of course the regular 1/4" bits are the world wide standard.  What else is there?  Centrotec?  Centrotec probably makes up less than 0.01% of all bits manufactured world wide.  We are not asking for a chuck that performs as well as centrotec -we just want a chuck that works as well as every other 1/4" driver.  The consensus here is that the current 1/4" Centrotec bit adapter is crap.

And if that's not possible, at the very least produce all of the bit types for Centrotec, and not just what Festool deems "worthy".
 
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