Lighting options in the workshop
- Thread starter Javib
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luvmytoolz
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Javib said:
For myself I put in some cheap 40w LED strips and I'm loving the massive even brightness they throw! Way better than CFL's and flouro's.
Javib said:
A couple of us have gone with these. I love mine. 189.99 for a 10-pack from Amazon.
Barrina LED Shop Light, 8FT 72W 9000LM 5000K, Daylight White, V Shape, Clear Cover, Hight Output, Linkable , T8 LED Tube Lights, for Garage 8 Foot with Plug (Pack of 10)
In my recent experience low, but not lowest, cost LED shop lights. Better to have multiple lower wattage lights evenly spaced then fewer larger wattage. Thankfully given modern LED relatively little power draw and thereby makes this an easy choice and application.
The type that daisy chain together is helpful. Also, if a high ceiling space a wireless remote switch is a plus (as in my garage; powered off door opener receptacle).
Ref:
The type that daisy chain together is helpful. Also, if a high ceiling space a wireless remote switch is a plus (as in my garage; powered off door opener receptacle).
Ref:
Thanks! They look great, don’t know why but I was thinking on surface led lights initially instead of strips or spotlights as I thought that they would generate a more even light. Probably I am mistaken about that, anyone with experience on using surface ceiling lights?
Great thing about those barrina is that it seems that can be fixed or hanged
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
Great thing about those barrina is that it seems that can be fixed or hanged
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
Yes, I used exactly the video'd Barrina lights on the finished white-painted surface of my garage ceiling. Casts a very even and bright light. I mostly hung my basement shop lights however.
This is the remote light switch I used in my garage:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVJ23X9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the remote light switch I used in my garage:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVJ23X9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheese
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I have Barrina 4' & 8' strips in the basement shop, over the washer & dryer, in the wine/fruit cellar, in the garage and in the attic. I obviously like them a lot, however I would not recommend that you control them with an occupancy sensor. I've tried 5 different occupancy sensors but the voltage spikes drastically shortened the life of the Barrina LED's. I decided to replace the sensors with traditional light switches instead.
Michael Kellough
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Unless I missed it in the description I think Barrina stopped saying how long the lamps last. We all have this 10000 hour lifespan in our minds from the led proselytizing that has been promulgated over the years but there is more than leds involved in these units and that stuff doesn’t last.
I started with a 6 pack of 4 foot 40 watt Barrina leds strips. They look good and are extremely easy to instal. After about 3-1/2 years 3 of the 6 installed had died.
I replaced them with a 6 pack of the Barrina 8 foot strips and two them failed the bench test right out of the box. One glowed very bright and emitted a loud pop and expired. The other just didn’t do anything but I later discovered a pin was missing on one end and connecting to the other end worked so I just used it at the end of a run. Barrina says not to use more than three in a run.
A replacement 6 pack arrived yesterday but are still untested. They do honor the warranty.
Now have several more 8 foot strips than I need hence my need to up my remote power supply to use them in my sheds.
I started with a 6 pack of 4 foot 40 watt Barrina leds strips. They look good and are extremely easy to instal. After about 3-1/2 years 3 of the 6 installed had died.
I replaced them with a 6 pack of the Barrina 8 foot strips and two them failed the bench test right out of the box. One glowed very bright and emitted a loud pop and expired. The other just didn’t do anything but I later discovered a pin was missing on one end and connecting to the other end worked so I just used it at the end of a run. Barrina says not to use more than three in a run.
A replacement 6 pack arrived yesterday but are still untested. They do honor the warranty.
Now have several more 8 foot strips than I need hence my need to up my remote power supply to use them in my sheds.
smorgasbord
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We've had threads on this before, probably worth searching and checking out.
Make sure you:
1) Check the CRI. Anything under 92 or so isn't worthwhile.
2) Check flicker. I don't know any specs on this, but flicker can range from mildly distracting (spinning blades) to headache producing over long periods of time.
3) Check color temperature.
If you're doing finishing, CRI and color temperature are important for gauging results.
Make sure you:
1) Check the CRI. Anything under 92 or so isn't worthwhile.
2) Check flicker. I don't know any specs on this, but flicker can range from mildly distracting (spinning blades) to headache producing over long periods of time.
3) Check color temperature.
If you're doing finishing, CRI and color temperature are important for gauging results.
Years ago I had 4 banks of fluorescent twin tube lights installed for overall lighting. Eventually I won’t be able to get replacement tubes.
I recently moved a track light from my home office to the basement shop. I have two spots on the drill press, the bench top belt sander, mortise machine and the band saw. I am lighting from both sides of the blade/part/drill bit/mortise cutter. It did not cost anything (except I bought new LED bulbs). But it would have been a justified investment if I bought these new. It makes precise work much, much easier. It is also incredibly easy to setup for each machine.
Note: One light works against its recommendation. One light casts a dark shadow and makes lines and marks difficult to see well. Two lights per station is the bees knees.
I recently moved a track light from my home office to the basement shop. I have two spots on the drill press, the bench top belt sander, mortise machine and the band saw. I am lighting from both sides of the blade/part/drill bit/mortise cutter. It did not cost anything (except I bought new LED bulbs). But it would have been a justified investment if I bought these new. It makes precise work much, much easier. It is also incredibly easy to setup for each machine.
Note: One light works against its recommendation. One light casts a dark shadow and makes lines and marks difficult to see well. Two lights per station is the bees knees.
[member=74278]Packard[/member] - when my 13 year old two bulb, 8 foot fluorescents started to die in my shop I replaced the bulbs with LED re0lacements, removed the ballasts and followed the bulb manufacturer’s instructions on how to rewire the fixtures to supply direct current to the bulbs. They work great, I love them. I bought Halco from a local lighting store because they held my hand through the process. Today I would probably just order them off Amazon.
I bought a couple of LED replacement bulbs, but my friend, a retired electrician re-wired them for me and I did not pay attention. He moved to Florida. They came with instructions, but they seemed intimidating. I will study them again when I run out of bulbs.
Adding abundant lighting is the quickest way to turn a “basement” into a “work area”.
Thanks.
Packard
Adding abundant lighting is the quickest way to turn a “basement” into a “work area”.
Thanks.
Packard
[member=74278]Packard[/member] - I live in a big city, I found a store that only sells light bulbs (and a few fixtures). I took detailed pics of what I had, including the wiring on the inside of the fixture and they walked me through what I needed to do. The first one was a little stressful but after it’s done and works fine the rest is a cake walk! Those replacement bulbs have come a long way in a lot of ways including ease of installation.
smorgasbord said:
Fantastic, many thanks for those concise points. Regarding color temperature which should be the way to go?
Barrina looks good but it doesn't reach 92 CRI, I am trying to find now something that can be ceiling mounted and pendant as I have higher areas and using the same light in both cases would end up with a nicer look. Any suggestions?
Cheese
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Javib said:
I chose 5000K because it's a good compromise between the usually recommended 4500K to 5500K. An LED color temp of 6000K - 6500K will usually yield higher CRI values but I find it too blue/purple for continual shop use.
As far as CRI goes, it's very important for critical applications such as photography or accurately matching colors/color chips. However, for standard job requirements in the shop be it, wood, metal or automobile/motorcycle, I find the Barrina LED's to be just fine.
Barrina does offer a version that can be ceiling or pendant mounted.
https://barrina-led.com/products/le...g-or-flush-mount-4-packs-pvsp6-4ft-10000l-50k
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I'll just say this about CRI and Barrina lights.
We have brutally expensive CRI 95 LEDs in my shop at work. The video editors always praised the color rendition when we were shooting in my Barrina lighted basement during COVID. On the other hand, they spend a lot of time messing with color balance on the stuff we shoot at the office. Granted, there's an enormous glass tile window with trees right outside that tends to throw a green cast on everything in the summer. Bottom line...the 5000K Barrina lights look really good in person and in video.
We have brutally expensive CRI 95 LEDs in my shop at work. The video editors always praised the color rendition when we were shooting in my Barrina lighted basement during COVID. On the other hand, they spend a lot of time messing with color balance on the stuff we shoot at the office. Granted, there's an enormous glass tile window with trees right outside that tends to throw a green cast on everything in the summer. Bottom line...the 5000K Barrina lights look really good in person and in video.
jeffinsgf said:
That’s where Rosco film comes onboard. You cover the windows on the outside with the acetate film to color balance the outdoor lighting with the warmer indoor lighting. When incandescent lighting was used the window light looked blue.
Rosco recently was in the news when the movie “Barbie” caused them to run out of their theatrical pink paint. Apparently the paint has an iridescent effect.
In any case, feel safe knowing that the color pink remained available from other vendors, but not in the theatrical pink that Rosco makes. (Rest easy, I hear that Rosco’s production has caught up with demand.)
smorgasbord
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Another aspect on the color temperature is whether you have a basement shop or a shop with lots of outdoor windows, whether you're building for homes or commercial applications, etc.
I mostly build for myself, which means rooms lit with skylights and open windows in the daytime and with 2700º-3200º halogen lights at night. My shop LEDs are 4000º and >90CRI. I think anywhere from 4000º to 5500º is OK. I chose the lower end since my home night lighting is at the lower end (modern craftsman style house and furnishings).
Note that there is some debate over CRI usage. Apparently that's measured using only like 8 points in the spectrum, so it's possible for manufacturers to game the system and have an overall poorly performing light that measures high in the specific CRI test points. And, there is no measurement for flicker that I can find.
I personally ripped out my old flourscent fixtures rather then buy LED bulbs as the cost was actually less and the LED fixtures are lower profile and easier to replace than to modify the wiring inside them to remove the ballasts.
I mostly build for myself, which means rooms lit with skylights and open windows in the daytime and with 2700º-3200º halogen lights at night. My shop LEDs are 4000º and >90CRI. I think anywhere from 4000º to 5500º is OK. I chose the lower end since my home night lighting is at the lower end (modern craftsman style house and furnishings).
Note that there is some debate over CRI usage. Apparently that's measured using only like 8 points in the spectrum, so it's possible for manufacturers to game the system and have an overall poorly performing light that measures high in the specific CRI test points. And, there is no measurement for flicker that I can find.
I personally ripped out my old flourscent fixtures rather then buy LED bulbs as the cost was actually less and the LED fixtures are lower profile and easier to replace than to modify the wiring inside them to remove the ballasts.
It was not widely distributed information, but back when incandescent bulbs were marketed for photography, they came in 2700K and 3200K. They added blue tint to the glass to correct for the color temperature.
What was not distributed was the fact that the bulbs were color accurate for only about 8 hours of continuous use. After the 8 hours, they continued to burn bright, but the color temperature shifted significantly. It was never clear to me if it was the color shifting coating on the bulbs that changed, or if the tungsten lighting elements had changed. But the colors were no longer accurate.
The inability to balance the color temperature of the fluorescent bulbs stemmed from the fact that the light did not appear evenly across the entire color temperature. It was simply missing bands of light at various points. Filtering could not satisfactorily correct for this as the missing bands differed from manufacturer to manufacturer.
What was not distributed was the fact that the bulbs were color accurate for only about 8 hours of continuous use. After the 8 hours, they continued to burn bright, but the color temperature shifted significantly. It was never clear to me if it was the color shifting coating on the bulbs that changed, or if the tungsten lighting elements had changed. But the colors were no longer accurate.
The inability to balance the color temperature of the fluorescent bulbs stemmed from the fact that the light did not appear evenly across the entire color temperature. It was simply missing bands of light at various points. Filtering could not satisfactorily correct for this as the missing bands differed from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Not mentioned anywhere above is the psychological effect of lighting. I worked in sales, but the factory had different lighting. Management decided to replace the existing fluorescent lighting with much brighter sodium lighting.
The sodium lighting had an orange/yellow color. The factory workers were convinced that the lighting was causing headaches. After weeks of arguing with the union, management caved and the old lights were restored.
Management’s position was that the headaches were imagined.
If you think you have a headache and it hurts, does that not mean that you do have a headache.
On the other hand, magenta colored lighting is supposed to reduce the synaptic response in your body (pain receptors). The effect is supposed to be slow (hours) but it is supposed to create a subtle level of euphoria.
I tried this once, but with no way to measure the results, I could not get a reading on my euphoria.
High pressure sodium lighting is still used in street lights (but not much from my experience).
It still has a place as a “grow” light:
https://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/cea/wp-content/uploads/sites/15/2013/10/Lighting_October2013.pdf
There are a lot more sources for magenta lighting nowadays, in case anyone wants to work on their euphoria. [big grin]
https://www.google.com/search?clien...477b&sxsrf=ADLYWILzzUwZS7FMwhO6wqp-dBAAqpvonA:1715801396849&q=magenta+lighting&uds=ADvngMjYpvda3XkhTB18xu4xRBPZAcDE63JdUPl1UoN6CPeX6LzqBxhKQWp5eGsQ1P1P_aEorVrT1GjnGs6BIi2PY4GGGwMwyF7RlQ-0OXIxd-fk0Fq09mJBCaFdY2LaXaky3ZxosbtbFKxRVS0CkrK7MX4fMX-0Im1-g-p2iTU0v3nrBlO857j8VjeaA5dMv_0sUWptl0SacrsId9afA-BV5Dn5EaVcwyApQ26EOjc5TFxb1Jlg6BJid_xTOP4FDS_FbSkQjq4E88dCyxFIhi23X7zuBtcsMQ-tc4BzmmqE4uG1jDrI1Rf8nMJrRd_mpxWoFOKgmmkp&udm=2&prmd=isvnmbtz&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjpj46mspCGAxWmkokEHfo-CzgQtKgLegQIDhAB&biw=1128&bih=693&dpr=2
The sodium lighting had an orange/yellow color. The factory workers were convinced that the lighting was causing headaches. After weeks of arguing with the union, management caved and the old lights were restored.
Management’s position was that the headaches were imagined.
If you think you have a headache and it hurts, does that not mean that you do have a headache.
On the other hand, magenta colored lighting is supposed to reduce the synaptic response in your body (pain receptors). The effect is supposed to be slow (hours) but it is supposed to create a subtle level of euphoria.
I tried this once, but with no way to measure the results, I could not get a reading on my euphoria.
High pressure sodium lighting is still used in street lights (but not much from my experience).
It still has a place as a “grow” light:
https://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/cea/wp-content/uploads/sites/15/2013/10/Lighting_October2013.pdf
There are a lot more sources for magenta lighting nowadays, in case anyone wants to work on their euphoria. [big grin]
https://www.google.com/search?clien...477b&sxsrf=ADLYWILzzUwZS7FMwhO6wqp-dBAAqpvonA:1715801396849&q=magenta+lighting&uds=ADvngMjYpvda3XkhTB18xu4xRBPZAcDE63JdUPl1UoN6CPeX6LzqBxhKQWp5eGsQ1P1P_aEorVrT1GjnGs6BIi2PY4GGGwMwyF7RlQ-0OXIxd-fk0Fq09mJBCaFdY2LaXaky3ZxosbtbFKxRVS0CkrK7MX4fMX-0Im1-g-p2iTU0v3nrBlO857j8VjeaA5dMv_0sUWptl0SacrsId9afA-BV5Dn5EaVcwyApQ26EOjc5TFxb1Jlg6BJid_xTOP4FDS_FbSkQjq4E88dCyxFIhi23X7zuBtcsMQ-tc4BzmmqE4uG1jDrI1Rf8nMJrRd_mpxWoFOKgmmkp&udm=2&prmd=isvnmbtz&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjpj46mspCGAxWmkokEHfo-CzgQtKgLegQIDhAB&biw=1128&bih=693&dpr=2