Lightweight routers dedicated to roundovers

I typically have a .25 spiral down, a Amana Tool MR0110, Amana Tool - 47147, Amana MR0103, Another round over with a larger radi (the particular size escapes me at the moment Probably a 1/4 with 3/8 bearing but not positive), and a 45° chamfer with 3/8 bearing.

The two miniature Amana bits probably wont be used by others much but they work good for cutting the onion skin on small parts that come off the cnc that were cut with a .25" bit.  one to flush trim or to just soften the corner depending on the part. If its a part that is going to get glued to another then it gets flushed if its a part that will get handled then the small round over. That pretty much handles most of what I need. I do swap a bit from time to time for odd ball stuff but its pretty rare. 

It will depend on what you typically build and use.
 
Oh, I forgot the Festool 499811 also lives permanently in one trim router.
 
Rick Herrick said:
I got the Ryobi cordless in yesterday.  Put a small mortising bit in it as I want to use it to flush cut plugs/dowels.  I don't seem to have the technique with the Japanese pull saw to do this without scratching my work.  This Ryobi set up is very nice.  Cut the poplar dowels very easily.  Will also test with some oak and maple to make sure there is enough power but I think I am going to get a couple more of these.

What type of bits do you guys keep chucked up?  I am thinking this mortise or straight cut bit, a round-over and also a chamfer bit.  Be curious to see what others use on a regular basis that fits this scenario.

Japanese saws have set teeth too. There are special saws with flush teeth for this purpose. Lee Valley has a good one.
 
Rick Herrick said:
I got the Ryobi cordless in yesterday.  Put a small mortising bit in it as I want to use it to flush cut plugs/dowels.  I don't seem to have the technique with the Japanese pull saw to do this without scratching my work.  This Ryobi set up is very nice.  Cut the poplar dowels very easily.  Will also test with some oak and maple to make sure there is enough power but I think I am going to get a couple more of these.

What type of bits do you guys keep chucked up?  I am thinking this mortise or straight cut bit, a round-over and also a chamfer bit.  Be curious to see what others use on a regular basis that fits this scenario.

I typically keep a "bullet" style flush trim bit and a "no-file" bit in each of my cordless Makitas. The Bosch Colts are all configured for some kind of laminate bit too, but with specialty bases. One has the tilt base, one has the off-set base, one has the underscribe attachment and the last one has a 1/8" roundover.  One Rigid has a 1/4" down spiral and the other has an overhang trim bit. The corded Makita has a 3/8" bushing and a 1/4" down spiral.
I also keep two Milwaukee body-grip routers with Amana insert-style bits, one flush-trim, the other pattern. The OF1400 and OF1010 are the ones who actually get bits changed on them. All of the others do one specific thing and the Festools adapt to whatever comes along.
The MFK700 is generally set-up for trimming 3/4" thick wood edges, with the zero degree base, but not always. Sometimes it gets used for 3mm PVC edgebanding, usually on tops curved shape.
There are days that I don't use any of the laminate cutters and then others, like today, where I might have 5-6 of them out at once.
 

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jaguar36 said:
Tom Gensmer said:
I own a pair of the Bosch 12v routers and the ergonomics can't be beat.

You mean this guy?
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I'm surprised people like the ergonomics on it.  I can't stand it personally, I have never figured out a comfortable way to hold it and have come close to putting my finger on the bit a few times because of it.  Really wish it was just the traditional design.

To the op though, I almost always have a 1/4" round over in it and love having it setup like that for quick tasks.  I'm considering getting another to leave setup with an 1/8" bit too.
Fits me like a glove in is my goto round over router.
Was a bit unusual in the beginning but once I got used to it it was like why did it take so long.
Might also help that I have a typical german build. 🤪
 
I like the looks of that Bosch, I like how the on/off looks like my thumb could easily reach it in while it is being held (unlike the Dewalt) and the slimmer easy to hold shape.  Even the Dewalt can make my hand start to cramp up after awhile but Im not as young as I used to be either.  Not so sure how I feel about it only being 12v but Im not going to be investing in another battery platform and even if I did it would be Makita since they offer one of the most comprehensive cordless lineups.  I do lots of different types of work so that might not apply to someone else that is a little more specialized.  It looks good though other than if you had big hands your fingers might get closer to the business end than I would like.  Bottom line is for light duty work that doesnt require a lot of horse power these cordless trim routers are hard to beat no matter the brand they will make thing much easier and the more you have the better. 

I keep thinking about trying to add D-handles to my dewalts.  If I could figure out a non destructive way to add a D-handle with either a trigger for on/off or at least a switch that is easily toggled while holding the handle would be SWEEEET! one day Ill get some time and try to tinker with one. 
 
Festita Makool:
Thanks for letting us know about that Makita offset base--I can see occasions when that would be very useful. (That's my general excuse for buying cool tools I may never use). I also bought the plunge base. Dust collection is not up to Festool standards, however, in my experience.
 
Stan Tillinghast said:
Festita Makool:
Thanks for letting us know about that Makita offset base--I can see occasions when that would be very useful. (That's my general excuse for buying cool tools I may never use). I also bought the plunge base. Dust collection is not up to Festool standards, however, in my experience.

Haha, well it can easily be the case, however, I generally like to have most accessories available to any tool I have; at least when accessories can be a problem solver. As with this, since I bought the kit version with all the other bases, AND I had a particular task for the offset base, recognised that the moment I saw it, and ordered in fear of it going obsolete.
Have not yet done it; but I’ll retrofit seals to old door jambs - given the larger base and offset this accessory should be just the right tool, maybe.

The dust collection is quite all right, and with the same dc accessory as Festool has to theirs it would probably be very good. Edge routing do throw good amount of dust even with Festool’s, without the right accessories. Sooo.. one better accessorize sooner than later  [big grin]
 
Looks like this has hit a popular subject! Glad to read all the responses. Looks like I'll be going the cordless route, Bosch 12v routers and either Makita or Milwaukee 18v.
 
" If I could figure out a non destructive way to add a D-handle with either a trigger for on/off or at least a switch that is easily toggled while holding the handle would be SWEEEET!"

That would be nice. A D handle with trigger switch like the old PC690 had would be a winner.
 
Rick Herrick said:
Before getting into Festool a year ago, I had a bunch of Ryobi tools and batteries.  I rarely use any of them now but they do have a trim router for $69 US.  And since I have a bunch of batteries, I went ahead and ordered one just to see if it can do what I want.  Like most, I don't want to invest a lot but having a couple routers at the ready, would be nice.

I started buying Ryobi AFTER I already had a bunch of Festool stuff, including this trim router.  I got sucked in because I already had several 18v batteries for lawn stuff.

It's a good little trim router.  No complaints.
 
Kraftt said:
After trying a few colors I landed on the Milwaukee 18v.  10k to 31k rpm, plenty of power,  simple ez very fine adjustment,  great dust extraction, good ergonomics, motor brake, cheap n' cheerful always a sale round the corner etc.  I think most guys use the high output 3.0Ah for weight.

Regardless of the brand though, making different bases for how you work / the task will also go a long way towards how you like using any router. 

PCAKa0.jpg


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what material did you make the base out of? 
 
notenoughcash said:
i have a katsu makita knock off, and it is identical to the makita other than the scribles on the side.  and it cost half the amount

[member=72337]notenoughcash[/member] (and others) While back I purchased the Makita trim router corded kit (it came with the offset base). Later I bought the cordless router and gave the corded one to my son. I had to look at the clone - Ester Best? I noticed it includes a 3/8" collet. This is interesting - are 3/8" shank bits available?
 
Mike Goetzke said:
[member=72337]notenoughcash[/member] (and others) While back I purchased the Makita trim router corded kit (it came with the offset base). Later I bought the cordless router and gave the corded one to my son. I had to look at the clone - Ester Best? I noticed it includes a 3/8" collet. This is interesting - are 3/8" shank bits available?

i think it does come with one

i use 1/4 shank
 
fshanno said:
Rick Herrick said:
Before getting into Festool a year ago, I had a bunch of Ryobi tools and batteries.  I rarely use any of them now but they do have a trim router for $69 US.  And since I have a bunch of batteries, I went ahead and ordered one just to see if it can do what I want.  Like most, I don't want to invest a lot but having a couple routers at the ready, would be nice.

I started buying Ryobi AFTER I already had a bunch of Festool stuff, including this trim router.  I got sucked in because I already had several 18v batteries for lawn stuff.

It's a good little trim router.  No complaints.
Unfortunately I have pretty much given up on my little Ryobi for semi-important stuff.  The bit height changes, a lot, during a series of cuts.  For example, doing a 1/8" round-over on a face frame thats roughly 24"x24".  Cut started out perfect and by the end, I had a bead deep enough to hit a fingernail easily. I had heard to make your final adjustment bringing the bit farther from the router but that hasn't helped me.  Its a $69 router so I guess I can't expect too much but I now just use it for non-essential cuts.
 
That sucks, is the collet letting the bit slip or is the barrel of the router moving in the grip portion?  If unsure measure your bit stick out from the collet and make some cuts till you see the error.  remeasure the stick out if its still the same then the clamp on the grip portion is slipping.  My dewalt routers have a small screw to adjust how much clamping force the height adjustment lever applies.  I just looked at a picture of the ryobi cordless and willing to bet thats your issue.  If its the collet I would give it a little extra when tightening it if it still slips return for a different one.  But chances are its the height adjustment clamp needs tightening
 
Mike Goetzke said:
This is interesting - are 3/8" shank bits available?

They are available but you really have to look for them and they all tend to be straight cutters, Amana, CMT, Onsrud, Vortex & Whiteside all offer them.
 
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