Load bearing stud cut - repair ideas?

[ryanjg117]

Removing an old, rather dilapidated metal tubular chimney off the back of our 1977 house. Along with it, removing an exhaust for an old pellet stove located in the basement. Pulled off the exterior surround for this exhaust today and noticed to my dismay they completely cut through a vertical stud to accommodate this tiny 4" exhaust:

[attachimg=1]

The roof trusses in this home are load bearing on the front and back of the house, meaning this is most likely a load bearing stud. There is some odd "settling" in the upstairs of the house, and this could certainly be a contributor to the issue.

I'm going to patch the house wrap and cedar siding but might as well try to at least put a block under this stud. Just want to get some ideas on how best to do that... Cut the existing stud flat, cut a block to insert, and use a framing nailer at an angle to make it whole?

 

[tjbnwi]

There is still some stud there. Use a stud shoe for a smaller pipe. Wont be a 100% repair, but better than nothing.

Best method would be sistering a new stud, but odds are you don't want to completely open the wall.

Tom

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Just a personal opinion but, if you’ve seen evidence of movement because of this previous mistake, I’d definitely investigate further.
Over here we use Acrow props (jacks) and like spurs on top of them (strong boys) to hold everything up, so we can work safely below them. So I’d look at replacing the stud/beam/lintel.

You’ll have to excuse me, as the houses are mostly built differently here to your location but, I’d imagine the principles and application are very similar in load bearing.
Just trying to help.

 

[o2b4wln]

If the stud spacing is 16" oc  (or even 24" oc) then the entire wall is the load bearing diaphragm (studs, sheathing, etc);the stud can be sistered on each side and will still function with minimal structural deflection.

The loads from the roof truss is being distributed throughout the wall system, one stud being compromised will not be a major issue.

Hope this helps.

-Neeraj

 

[wakyct]

Maybe you've done it already but some kind of gusset, plywood or a metal nailing plate with say 1/4" x 1 1/2" screws, is probably better than toenailing with the framing nailer. You might have enough access when you patch the siding.

 

[ryanjg117]

Ended up sistering studs on both sides, with some good screws and construction adhesive. I was happily surprised to see a floor squeak in the master bedroom went away!